10 tips for repairing your skin’s stratum corneum, straight from a dermatologist

10 Tips to Repair Your Skin’s Cuticle Straight from a Dermatologist

If your goal is a smooth, radiant complexion, having flaky skin on your face isn’t going to make things any easier—just ask any foundation with experience tackling dry patches. Between over-exfoliating and using the wrong cleanser for your skin type, there are a few factors that could be exacerbating dry skin on your face. But that doesn’t mean you can’t tweak your skincare routine, including some of our favorite cleansers, to pave the way for the ultra-hydrated complexion you’ve always dreamed of.

We know that battling dry skin can often seem like a losing battle. That’s why we asked celebrity aestheticians Renée Rouleau and Shani Darden, and board-certified dermatologist and Epionce founder Carl Thornfeldt, to find out what causes extremely dry skin and how we can get rid of it once and for all. 01. Determine if you’re dehydrated or just dry

In fact, you might be confusing dry skin with dehydrated skin. The difference? Dry skin refers to a skin type (just like oily or combination skin), while dehydrated skin refers to a skin condition, Rouleau says. Rouleau says dryer

Skin lacking oil can be hereditary, so it can appear flaky and rough. 1 Dehydrated skin, on the other hand, lacks moisture and appears dull and tight.

According to Rouleau, truly dry skin produces neither oil nor sebum. Dry skin has tiny pores and will never break out, Rouleau claims, because there’s no oil to enlarge follicles or harbor bacteria. Flawless skin and

Small pores may not sound so bad, but the skin relies on oil to retain moisture. Without oil, your complexion may appear rough and flaky, and wrinkles may become more noticeable.

Bottom line: If you have oil-free skin (i.e., small pores and little to no acne), you may have dry skin. Also, if you notice scaling and irritation, you may feel more confident in your diagnosis. If

You may have dehydrated skin if your skin is tight or dull, or if you’ve been drinking all night (which can dehydrate your skin, not to mention rosacea and acne 2).

02. Avoid over-exfoliation

Maybe you use a cleansing brush twice a day (too much!) or use too many retinol and acid serums. Whatever the case, even if you think these habits are improving your skin’s appearance, they can actually weaken your skin’s moisture barrier

damage your skin and cause surface dryness and irritation. 3 “Any form of exfoliation compromises the skin’s protective barrier and triggers an inflammatory response in the skin,” says Thornfeldt. “While acute inflammation stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis, chronic inflammation and barrier damage are linked to many skin issues and conditions—especially when the skin is already dry and the skin barrier is more damaged, over-exfoliation can make the problem worse.” But don’t let that stop you from exfoliating. According to Darden, it’s still important to exfoliate dry and sensitive skin because your moisturizers and treatments can’t be properly absorbed without removing dead skin cells on the surface. If you have extremely dry skin, Thornfeldt recommends reserving physical peels for a professional setting (such as microdermabrasion) and using low-concentration chemical peels (also known as acids) that won’t trigger a harmful reaction. Try these exfoliating pads from Kinship, which are made with glycolic acid (AHA) as well as the brand’s plant-based probiotics to help maintain your moisture barrier. 03. Use sulfate-free cleansers

Foaming and gel cleansers may look fancy, but Ruleau says many of them contain sulfates (you’ll notice them on the ingredient list as sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, or ammonium laureth sulfate).

“This ingredient is a surfactant, a cleanser that strips oils from your skin,” Ruleau says. “These ingredients are very harsh and strip your skin of moisture every time you wash it.”

Thornfield agrees, adding that when there’s too much oil on your skin, the skin’s protective barrier breaks down. “There are important oils in your skin that act like glue to hold the skin barrier together,” he explains. “If

If these oils are damaged or removed, the skin barrier is more vulnerable to breakdown and harmful environmental effects like UV radiation or pollution can penetrate. While this applies to all skin types, it presents a greater challenge.

For dry skin types.

Choosing a cleanser is the most important step in your skincare routine, Rouleau says, because washing with a dry cleanser strips your skin of moisture, which means you need to rush out and apply a moisturizer to replace the absorbed moisture. We like this one from Pacifica because it’s not only sulfate-free, but it also contains hydrating hyaluronic acid for super-plump skin. 4

04. Take care of your skin quickly

Rouleau recommends using a toner and moisturizer with an alcohol-free formula, like this one from Epionce, immediately after washing your face. “If you leave your skin bare for more than a minute, it will start to dry out,” she says. “Start your skincare routine quickly to make sure your skin is always hydrated. ”Since using a toner or moisturizer right after washing your face can help lock in some moisture, you may not need to use a lot of product. 05. Use a night cream to repair dryness Some people avoid using night cream to let their skin “breathe,” but both Rouleau and Thornfeldt agree that it’s important to use a moisturizer at night. Thornfeldt says that night creams work best when the skin is in repair mode at night. During the day, our skin is in protection mode, fending off daytime disturbances like UV rays and pollution. 6 “At night, when your skin is at rest, its permeability is at its highest, allowing active ingredients to penetrate deep into the skin,” says Rouleau. Then you can really address your skin care concern (in this case, dryness) because your skin is no longer acting as a defense.

A night cream is essentially a moisturizer without the sunscreen, and you don’t necessarily have to use anything specifically labeled “night cream.” Any moisturizer without SPF will work as long as it’s appropriate for your skin type.

Ranavat’s selection has a luxuriously rich consistency that’s perfect for dry skin and is enriched with anti-aging botanicals like poppy seed and lotus.

06. Add moisture to the air with a humidifier

In addition to lotions, potions, and creams, the solution to dry skin is as simple as plugging in a humidifier. Especially in the winter (or in a dry climate year-round), adding humidity is important because it will help keep your skin hydrated. 7 Darden recommends this Dyson humidifier because it helps keep the air clean and in tip-top condition. The perfect moisture level keeps your skin more hydrated and comfortable overnight and throughout the day.

07. Use hydrating essential oils

Thornfeldt explains that a healthy skin barrier is made up of a mixture of cholesterol, ceramides, and free fatty acids. The true effectiveness of a product for dry skin depends on whether it helps restore the skin barrier. To do this, it must contain oils, especially the oils found in healthy skin. 8 If you’re worried about clogged pores, Thornfeldt says the product won’t clog pores if the oils are pure and free of impurities. “Remember that hydration refers to the ability to retain water. However, since dry skin can’t produce enough oil, adding more water without the oils the skin barrier needs is counterproductive and doesn’t meet the needs of dry skin,” he says.

08. Wear sunscreen frequently

Dry skin also compromises your moisture barrier, which isn’t a good thing. This means that tiny cracks can form in the layers of skin that are designed to retain moisture and irritants. 9 These cracks can cause skin to burn and look flaky, says Rouleau. If the damage isn’t repaired, it will eventually lead to a breakdown of precious collagen and elastin, the substances that keep us looking young.

The way to combat fine lines and wrinkles? Protect your skin from the sun—rain or shine. “Applying sunscreen every day is the most important thing you can do to keep your skin healthy and glowing,” says Darden. “Even if you’re indoors all day, UV rays can penetrate through windows, so it’s important to protect your skin.” She recommends using a hydrating sunscreen that doubles as a daily moisturizer to keep your routine simple but effective.

The key is to find a product you love so much that you want to wear it every day, rather than using an SPF just for its protective properties. We’re fans of this cream from J.Lo Beauty because it’s both hydrating and packed with SPF.

09. Shower with warm water

As hard as it is to resist a hot shower, especially in the winter, shower with warm water. Hot water strips your skin of moisture and can damage your skin barrier – If you have dry skin, avoid hot water. But hot water doesn’t just damage your skin. Your hair, too. A hot shower can strip your hair of moisture, too. It might be hard to turn down the temperature at first, but a hot shower has benefits

Your entire body and skin will thank you.

10. Try home remedies

Yes, serums, moisturizers, and dry skin products are your best bet for sagging skin, but don’t underestimate the power of home remedies. Make your own avocado mask, take a milk bath, or donate

Moisturize your skin with plant butters. Like shea butter and jojoba oil, you can use these products in your stash to soothe dry skin.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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