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10 Tips to Repair Your Skin’s Cuticle Straight from a Dermatologist
Beauty

10 Tips to Repair Your Skin’s Cuticle Straight from a Dermatologist

9 September 2024


10 Tips to Repair Your Skin’s Cuticle Straight from a Dermatologist




If your goal is a smooth, radiant complexion, having flaky skin on your face isn’t going to make things any easier—just ask any foundation with experience tackling dry patches. Between over-exfoliating and using the wrong cleanser for your skin type, there are a few factors that could be exacerbating dry skin on your face. But that doesn’t mean you can’t tweak your skincare routine, including some of our favorite cleansers, to pave the way for the ultra-hydrated complexion you’ve always dreamed of.



We know that battling dry skin can often seem like a losing battle. That’s why we asked celebrity aestheticians Renée Rouleau and Shani Darden, and board-certified dermatologist and Epionce founder Carl Thornfeldt, to find out what causes extremely dry skin and how we can get rid of it once and for all. 01. Determine if you’re dehydrated or just dry




In fact, you might be confusing dry skin with dehydrated skin. The difference? Dry skin refers to a skin type (just like oily or combination skin), while dehydrated skin refers to a skin condition, Rouleau says. Rouleau says dryer



Skin lacking oil can be hereditary, so it can appear flaky and rough. 1 Dehydrated skin, on the other hand, lacks moisture and appears dull and tight.




According to Rouleau, truly dry skin produces neither oil nor sebum. Dry skin has tiny pores and will never break out, Rouleau claims, because there’s no oil to enlarge follicles or harbor bacteria. Flawless skin and



Small pores may not sound that bad, but the skin relies on oil to retain moisture. Without oil, your complexion may appear rough and flaky, and wrinkles may become more noticeable.




Bottom line: If you have oil-free skin (i.e., small pores and little to no acne), you may have dry skin. Also, if you notice scaling and irritation, you may feel more confident in your diagnosis. If



You may have dehydrated skin if your skin is tight or dull, or if you’ve been drinking all night (which can dehydrate your skin, not to mention rosacea and acne 2).




02. Avoid over-exfoliation



Maybe you use a cleansing brush twice a day (too much!) or use too many retinol and acid serums. Still, even if you think these habits are improving your skin’s appearance, they can actually weaken your skin’s moisture barrier




damage your skin and cause surface dryness and irritation. 3 “Any form of exfoliation compromises the skin’s protective barrier and triggers an inflammatory response in the skin,” says Thornfeldt. “While acute inflammation stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis, chronic inflammation and barrier damage are linked to many skin issues and conditions—especially when skin is already dry and the skin barrier is more damaged, over-exfoliation can make the problem worse.” But don’t let that stop you from peeling. According to Darden, it’s still important to exfoliate dry and sensitive skin because your moisturizers and treatments can’t be properly absorbed without removing dead skin cells on the surface. If you have extremely dry skin, Thornfeldt recommends reserving physical peels for a professional setting (such as microdermabrasion) and using low-concentration chemical peels (also known as acids) that won’t trigger a harmful reaction. Try these exfoliating pads from Kinship, which are made with glycolic acid (AHA) as well as the brand’s plant-based probiotics to help maintain your moisture barrier. 03. Use sulfate-free cleansers



Foaming and gel cleansers may look fancy, but Ruleau says many of them contain sulfates (you’ll notice them on the ingredient list as sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, or ammonium laureth sulfate).




“This ingredient is a surfactant, a cleanser that strips oils from your skin,” Ruleau says. “These ingredients are very harsh and strip your skin of moisture every time you wash it.”



Thornfield agrees, adding that when there’s too much oil on your skin, the skin’s protective barrier breaks down. “There are important oils in your skin that act like glue to hold the skin barrier together,” he explains. “If




If these oils are damaged or removed, the skin barrier is more vulnerable to breakdown and harmful environmental influences like UV radiation or pollution can penetrate. While this applies to all skin types, it presents a greater challenge.



For dry skin types.




Choosing a cleanser is the most important step in your skincare routine, Rouleau says, because washing with a dry cleanser strips your skin of moisture, which means you need to rush out and apply a moisturizer to replace the absorbed moisture. We like this one from Pacifica because it’s not only sulfate-free, but it also contains hydrating hyaluronic acid for super-plump skin. 4



04. Take care of your skin quickly




Rouleau recommends using a toner and moisturizer with an alcohol-free formula, like this one from Epionce, immediately after washing your face. “If you leave your skin exposed for more than a minute, it will start to dry out,” she says. “Start your skincare routine quickly and make sure to toner is always there to keep it hydrated. ”Since using a toner or moisturizer immediately after washing your face can help lock in some moisture, you may not need to use a lot of product. 05. Use a night cream to repair dryness Some people avoid using night cream to let their skin “breathe,” but both Rouleau and Thornfeldt agree that it’s important to use a moisturizer at night. Thornfeldt says that night creams work best when the skin is in repair mode at night. During the day, our skin is in protection mode, fending off daytime disturbances like UV rays and pollution. 6 “At night, when your skin is at rest, its permeability is at its highest, allowing active ingredients to penetrate deep into the skin,” says Rouleau. Then you can really address your skin care concern (in this case, dryness) because your skin is no longer acting as a defense.



A night cream is essentially a moisturizer without the sunscreen, and you don’t necessarily have to use anything specifically labeled “night cream.” Any moisturizer without SPF will work as long as it’s appropriate for your skin type.




Ranavat’s selection has a luxuriously rich consistency that’s perfect for dry skin and is enriched with anti-aging botanicals like poppy seed and lotus.



06. Add moisture to the air with a humidifier




In addition to lotions, potions, and creams, the solution to dry skin is as simple as plugging in a humidifier. Especially in the winter (or in a dry climate year-round), adding humidity is important because it will help keep your skin hydrated. 7 Darden recommends this Dyson humidifier because it helps keep the air clean and in tip-top condition. The perfect moisture level keeps your skin more hydrated and comfortable overnight and throughout the day.



07. Use hydrating essential oils




Thornfeldt explains that a healthy skin barrier is made up of a mixture of cholesterol, ceramides, and free fatty acids. The true effectiveness of a product for dry skin depends on whether it helps restore the skin barrier. To do this, it must contain oils, especially the oils found in healthy skin. 8 If you’re worried about clogged pores, Thornfeldt says the product won’t clog pores if the oils are pure and free of impurities. “Remember that hydration refers to the ability to retain water. However, since dry skin can’t produce enough oil, adding more water without the oils the skin barrier needs is counterproductive and doesn’t meet the needs of dry skin,” he says.



08. Wear sunscreen frequently.




Dry skin also compromises your moisture barrier, which isn’t a good thing. This means that tiny cracks can form in the layers of skin that are designed to retain moisture and irritants. 9 These cracks can cause skin to burn and look flaky, says Rouleau. If the damage isn’t repaired, it can eventually lead to a breakdown of precious collagen and elastin, the substances that keep us looking young.


How to fight fine lines and wrinkles? Protect your skin from the sun — rain or shine. “Applying sunscreen every day is the most important thing you can do to keep your skin healthy and glowing,” says Darden. “Even if you’re indoors all day, UV rays can penetrate through windows, so it’s important to protect your skin.” She recommends using a hydrating sunscreen that doubles as a daily moisturizer to keep your routine simple but effective.

The key is to find a product you love so much that you want to wear it every day, rather than using an SPF just for its protective properties. We’re fans of this cream from J.Lo Beauty because it’s both hydrating and packed with SPF.

09. Shower with lukewarm water

As hard as it is to resist a hot shower, especially in the winter, shower with lukewarm water. Hot water strips your skin of moisture and can damage your skin barrier – If you have dry skin, avoid hot water. But hot water doesn’t just damage your skin. Your hair, too. A hot shower can strip your hair of moisture, too. It might be hard to turn down the temperature at first, but a hot shower has benefits

Your entire body and skin will thank you.

10. Try home remedies

Yes, serums, moisturizers, and dry skin products are your best bet for flaky skin, but don’t underestimate the power of home remedies. Make your own avocado mask, take a milk bath, or donate

Moisturize your skin with plant butters. Like shea butter and jojoba oil, you can use these products from your stash to soothe dry skin.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
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