6 Occasions When We Encourage You To Stop Using Retinal
As far as skincare ingredients go, retinal is one of the most popular, for sure. But with such popularity often comes a slew of misinformation. So it’s tricky to know when you’re getting the right results, when to push through, and when to stop using.
Here are five times when we encourage you to put down your retinal. Just for a little while.
You’re experiencing irritation.
Introducing a retinal into your routine more often than not, comes with a series of skin side effects. Purging, perhaps. (More on that here.) But it’s the stinging, burning, severe irritation that’s a real cause for concern.
You might be using too much, too frequently. So stop, and pull it right back to one application per week. Or none. If your skin is really saying ‘leave me alone’.
Incorporating retinal into your evening routine just once a week, consistently, is still going to grant you very glowy skin. When you’ve built up more of a tolerance for strong actives, that’s when you can start to gradually increase your usage.
If you know you have a sensitive skin type or want to give yourself even more of a buffer, try sandwiching: applying a nourishing moisturiser before and after your retinal to help soothe the skin.
You’re sunburnt.
Hypothetically, right? Because you’re wearing SPF daily. (Regardless of what the weather app says.)
Great. Glad we cleared that up.
Now, if on the very rare occasion you end your day looking a little sun-kissed, we recommend skipping retinal until your skin has had a chance to heal and your skin barrier is no longer compromised. Applying a retinal on top of sunburn is only going to exacerbate the heat and redness, and prolong the recovery of your skin barrier.
Focus instead of super soothing, calming, moisturising ingredients. And only reintroduce retinal into your routine once you’ve properly spent some time (a week, at least) in The Repair Shop. Wait for any redness or flaking to disappear completely.
You’ve booked in for a facial.
To avoid any discomfort during your facial, it’s best to skip retinal in the week leading up to your appointment. Save your skin from unnecessary post-facial inflammation.
If you have applied retinal recently then please do let your facialist know, so they can rethink any waxing, exfoliation, chemical peels, that may have been incorporated in your treatment. They will likely focus instead on deeply hydrating and replenishing your skin. (Because you’ve already put in the work at home to remove dead cells. No point doubling down on actives.)
You’ve booked in to get a brow/lip wax or laser.
Retinal is powerful. We know this. But while this active helps to slough away dead skin cells, the new/fresh/glowy skin cells they’re replaced with are more susceptible to irritation from treatments like waxing and laser.
Actively using retinal before your waxing or laser appointment can sometimes result in skin irritation (at best), and tearing (at worst). Actively using retinal after your waxing or laser appointment might result in a bit of a burning sensation, due to some broken skin or open hair follicles. And we don’t want that.
It’s best to press pause on this product for a few days either side of pampering.
You’ve just had skin needling.
Generally, after any skin needling treatment, you can expect some redness, slight swelling around the areas that were treated, and your face might feel warm to touch. Three to five days later you’ll notice the skin becomes dry and flaky. A completely normal part of the regenerative process.
But! If you jump straight back into using retinal, you are going to leave your skin in a highly sensitive state for much longer than planned. Your skin barrier can only take so much, so it’s best to lay off actives (of any kind) until your skin has healed. Your dermal clinician will give you a stricter guide.
You’ve got a bun in the oven.
Retinal (or rather, all retinoids) is one ingredient you need to avoid during both pregnancy and breastfeeding. Vitamin A plays a pivotal role in fetal development, which means using a high level of retinal has the potential to interfere with early growth.
We recommend you consult your doctor to determine the individual needs of you, your skin, and your little belly friend during this time. (Hey! Congrats, btw.)
We love retinal. You know that. It just comes with a lot of ‘ifs’ and ‘buts’. And you’d be wise to follow.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
