Does avoiding serums really improve your skin?

Gone are the days when a simple “cleanse, tone, and moisturize” routine was enough to take care of your skin. Today, social media trends, a variety of brands, and a better understanding of skin tissue have given us access to more products than we ever thought possible. But if you ask dermatologists, one type may be more popular than the others: targeted serums.

From hyaluronic acid to niacinamide, there are new serums to try almost every week. Don’t like retinol? You can always try a plant-based bakuchiol alternative. Do you think vitamin C is irritating? Ascorbyl glucoside may be your best choice. While all of these ingredients have their benefits, it’s clear that when it comes to serums, there’s a lot to choose from. That’s a good thing, of course. But how much is too much?

Have serums fallen out of favor?

As of this writing, searches for skin serums have dropped slightly according to Google Trends, and on TikTok, some beauty fans are questioning our obsession with skin serums. TikTok users share with their fans the products they ban from their daily lives in viral videos. “Goodnight, beast, but we can’t be beasts anymore,” is the title of a series of serums that users claim cause redness, rashes and irritation. “Unfortunate skincare purchases” are also a popular trend, with several best-selling serums becoming the stars of the show. In almost all of these viral clips, the serums in question contain active ingredients. Active ingredients are designed to address specific skin concerns. Some of the most popular ingredients include vitamin C, exfoliating acids (such as glycolic and lactic acids), niacinamide and retinol. The strength of these ingredients varies from product to product, but serums provide targeted skin support and tend to provide higher concentrations than most other products, such as cleansers and moisturizers. Many of the popular serums on TikTok are particularly concentrated, containing 30% vitamin C or 30% glycolic acid, for example.

Like TikTokers, dermatologists and skin experts have warned of the effects of overusing serums with strong active ingredients, claiming that patients themselves have suffered burns and rashes. Anna, a beauty doctor and skincare expert, explains that social media has greatly influenced public interest in skincare in recent years. She reveals that her patients experience a feeling of ‘FOMO’ (fear of missing out) when choosing a serum with a popular active ingredient. Consultant dermatologist Dr. Anjali Mahto agrees that influencer culture and influencer marketing perpetuate FOMO and drive many of the serum purchases she sees in her clinic.

Is layering serums bad for your skin?

The truth is that everyone’s skin is different. A strong exfoliating serum used to remove acne scars can severely irritate your face. The same goes for ingredients like retinol, which are known to cause irritation if not used correctly. However, one of the worst serum mistakes skincare experts see in clinic is applying too many layers. From hyperpigmentation to dull skin, you wouldn’t mind tackling all of your skin concerns in one go. But going all in can become a problem. “The ‘more is better’ ethos has risen, fuelled by social media like Instagram and TikTok, with people using multiple products and often adding unnecessary steps to their skincare routines,” says Dr. Mahto. “I’ve seen videos of people using up to 5-6 different ingredients in their nighttime skincare routine – but what skincare ingredients shouldn’t be mixed?” Before we go on, a word of caution: At R29, we frequently cover skincare trends. If there’s a new, promising ingredient or serum, we’ll let you know. But everyone has different skin needs, and knowing whether a product is right for you before you buy (such as by contacting a skin expert, reading detailed reviews, or researching ingredient lists) is a good place to start.

Dr. Anna explains that your tolerance for a blend of active serums will depend on your individual skin type. However, she says that certain combinations are known to cause irritation – even when used alone, but especially when combined. For example, she advises against using retinoids with AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid) or BHAs (beta hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid). Other combinations that may cause irritation when applied directly on top of each other include: Vitamin C and the exfoliating acids listed above; benzoyl peroxide and vitamin C or an exfoliating acid; vitamin C and a retinoid; benzoyl peroxide and a retinoid.

Dr. Derrick Phillips, consultant dermatologist and spokesperson for the British Skin Foundation, explains that the right serum is a great addition to any skincare routine, especially if you’re looking to treat specific skin conditions like acne, breakouts or hyperpigmentation. But using more than two or three products or thick serums can clog your skin, which is bad news for those with issues like acne.

Dr Mahto explains that overuse can lead to other skin conditions, two of the most common of which are eczema and perioral dermatitis (an unpleasant red rash around the mouth). It’s such a common skincare concern that the hashtag

#periooraldermatitis has garnered 66.9 million views on TikTok and counting. In addition, Dr. Anna suffers from a weak skin barrier, symptoms of which include itching, flaking, redness, tightness and blotchiness. Ironically

there’s a reason skincare brands around the world are launching “barrier repair” moisturizers – serum overload means many of us have completely ruined our moisturizers.

Are serums still needed?

No one is suggesting you throw out your favorite serum. Depending on your skin concerns, the right product may work, and if it works for you, great. But Dr. Anna explains that, depending on time and budget, a serum is less necessary than your daily sunscreen and cleansing products. “I don’t think you should ever rule those out,” she says.

In fact, TikTok skincare enthusiasts are following suit. A quick search for “simple skincare routine” yields a ton of simple three-step routines that don’t require a complicated serum at all. Instead, TikTok users prefer

@stxph.h now to a simple cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen.

Experts agree that the best way to keep your skin healthy is to stick to the basics. “A simple skincare routine (one that doesn’t involve layering or using multiple active ingredients) is easier to stick to,” explains Dr.

Phillips. “You’re also less likely to get breakouts from congestion or redness on the skin and a combination of irritating ingredients.”

How to use a serum effectively without irritating your skin?

Serums may still be a popular purchase, but applying layers on your own is a risky endeavor. Against that backdrop, Dr. is careful not to use too many products at once. However, if you plan on using two or more serums in your routine, you may want to space them out. “For example, if you want to use vitamin C and vitamin A (retinol), use vitamin C in your morning routine [before sunscreen or moisturizer] and vitamin A in your evening routine [before moisturizer],” Dr. Mahto said.

Dr. Anna agrees. “If you have no particular concerns and want to protect your skin from environmental damage, I recommend a simple ABC approach. “A” stands for vitamin A (retinol), “C” stands for vitamin C, and “B” stands for sunscreen [or sunblock]. “Vitamin A should be used at night, vitamin C and sunscreen during the day.

Today, says Dr. Mahto, skincare formulas have become so advanced that brands often combine active ingredients in a single product so that they work in harmony. “Brands I particularly like are Paula’s Choice, Medik8 and Omorovicza,” she says. To make the most of your serum in this way, choose complementary ingredients, says Dr. Phillips. “A combination of retinol and niacinamide works well, with niacinamide’s anti-inflammatory properties helping to soothe the sensitivity caused by the retinol’s resurfacing effects. La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 is an anti-aging serum for sensitive skin (£38), which combines the two, as does the Youth to the People Retinol and Niacinamide Youth Serum (£59).

“A combination of niacinamide and vitamin C also works well,” says Dr. Phillips, “especially if the goal is to brighten the complexion.” ” R29 reviews Versed Stroke of Brilliance Brightening Serum, £18. Of course, Dr. Anna points out,

These blended serums should be used as directed. So make sure you read the instructions to avoid skin issues later.

Serums definitely have their place in skincare. But the consensus among experts and TikTok beauty fans proves that trying everything once and then overdoing it. If anything, the beauty industry’s reappraisal of serums is a positive. Both for your skin (especially if you’re experiencing some unexplained issues when using them) and, of course, your bank account balance.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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