Growth factors are one of those ingredients that people talk about a lot and appear on many bottles, but they remain a mystery. What exactly are they and where do they come from?
More importantly, what can they actually do for your skin? “Growth factors are naturally occurring substances that regulate a variety of cellular processes, including growth, proliferation, and differentiation.
“They are essential for tissue development, wound healing, and maintaining overall cellular health and function,” explains Dr. Robyn Gmyrek, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. (It’s also worth noting that they can be derived from human cells or plants.)
“When applied topically, growth factor serums can support collagen production, improve skin elasticity, enhance the skin’s natural repair process and improve its appearance, minimizing fine lines and wrinkles.
They can also help with hydration and general skin regeneration,” Gmyrek explains. In short, they’re a great anti-aging ingredient that targets several factors that make us look older than we actually are.
Another big plus for them: Unlike other anti-aging ingredients (we’re looking at retinoids), growth factors are generally well-tolerated and cause less irritation. A versatile, rejuvenating ingredient that won’t harm your skin?
Yes, please. It’s worth noting, however, that not all growth factor serums are created equal, and Gmyrek emphasizes that specific benefits may depend on the product’s overall formulation as well as the specific growth factors used.
To make your skincare shopping experience easier, we’ve rounded up some of the best picks. Best Overall: Dr. Diamond Metacine Instafacial Series: Dr. Jason Diamond is a plastic surgeon to some of the biggest stars.
The Kardashians and Chrissy Teigen are just a few of his elite patients. He’s known for his Diamond InstaFacial technique, which uses PRP (platelet-rich plasma) from the blood along with microneedling and lasers.
Think of it as the at-home version of an in-office treatment, but without the blood work or equipment. This two-step system consists of a plasma (more like a light serum in gel form) with bioidentical human growth factors and is applied under a lotion.
This one is more like a cream, with retinoids and slow-release peptides. The result? Smoother, firmer, and more radiant skin. Jill Di Donato, deputy editorial director of commerce at Byrdie, is a Byrdie fan and swears by combining the treatments to smooth out skin texture issues and soften skin. “My skin really absorbs it, it absorbs really well. I’ve been using it every day for six weeks, and my skin is tighter and more elastic.” ”
Second Place, Best Overall: Skin Medica TNS Advanced+ Serum: This cult classic is certainly not a newcomer, but it has been a long-time favorite, and for good reason; in fact, it was one of the first products to make current growth factors known. It is frequently recommended by dermatologists, including Gmyrek. “This serum is known for its combination of growth factors, antioxidants, and peptides. It specifically targets fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone,” she says.
Best Retinol Combo: Perricone MD Growth Factor Firming and Lifting Serum: The extra retinol in this formula further enhances growth factors that boost collagen production and elasticity. The latter helps, too, but it also improves exfoliation on the skin’s surface, giving you benefits on every level. Also worth noting: the extra eggshell membrane (yes, from eggs), which strengthens the skin barrier and helps lock in moisture.
Best Korean Beauty Product: Mascad Anti-Aging Serum: Made in Korea, this serum contains not one, not two, but three different types of growth factors. EGF, KGF, and BGF all work slightly differently in different layers of the skin, but they work together to give you a brighter, hydrated, smoother, and plumper complexion. Best Budget: Inkey List 15% Vitamin C and EGF Brightening Serum As a rule of thumb, growth factor serums don’t come cheap, and what makes this product more compelling than it could be.
It contains a 1% concentration of epidermal growth factor (EGF) and 15% ascorbyl glucoside (a form of vitamin C). While it’s not as strong as L-ascorbic acid, it’s still a great antioxidant and a good choice. Not to mention, it’s less likely to cause irritation or burning than stronger treatments. More. Best for Sensitive Skin: Neocutis Bio Serum Firming Regenerating Growth Factor and Peptide Treatment This serum contains human growth factors as well as a host of other active ingredients, including hydrating hyaluronic acid, moisturizing glycerin, and anti-aging peptides.
Another recommendation from Gmyrek: “This serum is known for its proprietary blend of growth factors, which are designed to support collagen production and improve the skin’s overall structure and elasticity,” she says Best Peptide Alternative: Dr. Babor EGF Growth Factor Concentrate It does exactly that. It doesn’t contain actual growth factors, but is based on biomimetic peptides that work by stimulating growth factors naturally found in the skin.
OK, it’s not as ideal as the original, but this formula is a great option for those who are wary of using human growth factors, as the serum is completely vegan. It’s also a bit cheaper than many of the others
Product is ideal for tightening and smoothing the skin. Best Moisturizer: Epi.Logic Master Plan Collagen Renewal Growth Factor Serum All growth factor serums help hydrate the skin to some extent, but this one really focuses on that task.
In addition to growth factors, the blend contains hyaluronic acid, a humectant that attracts and locks in moisture to the skin. Snow mushroom also helps lock in moisture, while shiitake plumps and brightens the skin.
Best Organic Botanical Serum: Effects EGF Plumping and Firming Serum For those looking for plant-based growth factors, this option is hard to beat. It’s based on growth factors found in barley that boost collagen production,
increasing moisture. To date, it’s been clinically proven to improve skin density and thickness and reduce wrinkles. Not bad: It contains only seven ingredients in total, and only a few drops are needed for full use. Best Exosome:
Elevai Enfinity Rejuvenating Serum Growth factors have been around for a while, but exosomes in skin care are expected to be the new trend. Think of them as a close cousin of growth factors.
These are nanoparticles released by cells that contain their own lipids, proteins, growth factors, and more. They work through communication between cells and are primarily responsible for maintaining the natural
stimulation and mimicking of the body’s healing response, making them ideal for skin regeneration. Exosomes are the stars here, along with growth factors, peptides, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid. The end result? A serum for general skin rejuvenation. What to Look for in a Growth Factor Serum Growth Factor Concentration As with any other active ingredient, you want to make sure you’re getting a high enough concentration of the growth factor for it to really work.
Gmyrek suggests checking to see if the product you’re considering lists the concentration. If not, make sure it’s at the top of the ingredient list, like in SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum and Elevai Enfinity Rejuvenating Serum. (FYI: Growth factors are often listed as “human stem cell conditioned media.”) Other Skin Actives “Look for other beneficial ingredients to complement the effects of the growth factors,” Gmyrek advises. “This may include antioxidants, peptides, hyaluronic acid, vitamins, and other nourishing compounds that promote overall skin health, hydration, and protection against environmental damage.”
It’s the Right Product for You. Great for Everyday Use. You want a serum that can easily fit into your existing routine. Most of the products on this list are suitable for morning and night use. As with any serum, be sure to apply it before your moisturizer. However, if the serum you’re using also contains antioxidants or hyaluronic acid, you can substitute a pure antioxidant or other hydrating serum.
