Skin care is never easy for many of us. It’s hard not to feel overwhelmed when you stroll down the aisles of Boots and see everything from AHAs to antioxidant serums, and don’t even get me started on retinol, retinaldehyde and retinoids. Because I’m a beauty writer, I signed up to get into the details of each ingredient. But no matter how many products I choose and try, I always end up choosing variations of the same three. That’s where CSA comes into play. What is a CSA skincare routine? The CSA skincare concept is pioneered by skincare brand Medik8 and, in my opinion, it’s the perfect routine. It revolves around the use of vitamin C, SPF and vitamin A (also known as retinol), hence the abbreviation CSA. However, the CSA skincare routine is nothing new. Medik8 first introduced this method in 2009 and has been using it ever since, making skin care a lot easier for many people. So far, it seems to be working.
“These three steps show the importance of reducing the number of skincare products you buy and taking a more hands-on approach to skincare,” explains dermatologist Sonia Khorana. According to No7, 75% of women only use one-third of their skincare routine, which can be good for our faces and our finances.
“I often talk about the benefits of ‘dermaplaning’ and how you don’t need a 10-step skincare routine to see the benefits,” adds Dr. Sonia, and I can’t help but agree.
My bathroom shelves may be stacked with lotions and potions (many of which are great), but my must-haves make up a small percentage and they almost always fall under those three letters.
Vitamin C: Vitamin C is a buy from my desert island beauty. “Firstly, it’s a powerful antioxidant,” explains Daniel Isaacs, head of research at Medik8.
Daniel explains that vitamin C neutralises harmful free radicals from the sun and environment, preventing them from attacking skin cells and causing signs of skin damage.
It’s been about a year since I started using a few drops of Medik8 C-Tetra Luxe (£59) every morning, and my face has never looked brighter, smoother or more even-toned. It makes sense, because Dr. Sonia explains that vitamin C “helps improve pigmentation and uneven skin tone, rebuild collagen, and protect the skin from environmental stressors and damage.”
When used in combination, it can even boost the effectiveness of your sunscreen. SPF: We’re all aware of the importance of sunscreen, so it’s undoubtedly the most important step in any skin-care routine. “Sunscreen should be applied daily to protect against UV rays,” Daniel explains.
“UVA in particular is present all year round and can penetrate clouds and glass. So yes, even if you’re sitting at a table by a window, you might want to invest in a sunscreen with a high SPF. Wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
My personal approach to sunscreen needs work. Whether you’re working from home or commuting to the office by tube, it can seem like a pointless step to spend the day indoors. But experts say it’s not.
So it’s important to find a product that’s actually fun to use. Excellent! Mattescreen, £34, is my favourite, but I usually switch it up after each use. Also try Inkey List Polyglutamate Dewy Sunscreen SPF30, £14.99, and Medik8 Advanced Day Ultimate Protection SPF50 PA++++, £59.
Vitamin A: The third and final step in the CSA concept is vitamin A, also known as retinol, which Dr. Sonia describes as a “skin superhero that helps rebuild collagen, fade pigmentation, address texture imperfections and improve oil control.” ”People’s love for this ingredient seems limitless, but it does have some downsides. Swelling of the skin (in the form of breakouts), redness and dry skin are all side effects of retinol. But Medik8 has options for almost every skin type, even the most sensitive. Full instructions can be found here. “The motto at Medik8 is: go slow, go slow,” says Daniel, who recommends using a low concentration of retinaldehyde. Retinaldehyde belongs to the retinoid family and works faster than the classic form of retinol. “There is a ton of published research supporting its effectiveness,” says Daniel, who acknowledges that retinaldehyde has collagen-boosting properties. He adds that it can rejuvenate the skin and give it a more even tone and texture.
Daniel likens this to prescription skin care, which is only available from a dermatologist. Slowly work the ingredients into your skin so as not to overwhelm it. Daniel recommends using an encapsulated retinaldehyde like Medik8’s
0.03% Crystal Retinaldehyde, £49.
Encapsulation usually means the retinaldehyde is wrapped in a moisturizing ingredient like a skin-friendly oil, making it a better choice for those with sensitive skin. Medik8 also means the Retinal isn’t
derived from the environment, so it’s more effective.
Use twice a week in the evenings for the first two weeks, then every other night for the next two weeks to prepare for nighttime use. Once your skin has accepted the molecules without irritation, you can switch to a higher strength to maximise results.
Following advice about six months ago, I now use Medik8 0.06% Crystal Retinal, £66, twice a week and my skin has never looked better. Fine lines that were starting to form have been reduced, my bumpy texture has been smoothed out and my pores are less noticeable than before.
Retinol serum, £21. Final thoughts It’s taken me years to find a skincare routine that not only works but takes less than five minutes morning and night, and I think I’ve finally nailed it with this three-step process. The only products not included in the CSA method are cleanser and either a night cream (I’m currently using the new No7 Future Renew Night Cream, £34) or an eye cream.
If you want to include the latter, it could definitely fall into the vitamin C or even retinol category, especially if you’re fully committed to the cause. Of course, any skincare brand will do, no matter your budget. So what about other skincare products? Well, you don’t have to throw out your hyaluronic acid serum just yet. “In my opinion, these three ingredients (CSAs) are absolutely must-haves for any skincare routine, and you can supplement them based on your specific skin concerns,” explains Dr. Sonia. “If someone has acne-prone skin, they may need to add a toner or salicylic acid product to address their concerns,” she adds.
Similarly, someone with very dry skin may need to use a rich moisturizer before applying sunscreen or after applying retinol. “Someone with rosacea-prone skin may need less vitamin A,” adds Dr. Sonia, adding that for dull skin, some people may want to use a glycolic acid product instead of retinol. Here’s how to tweak the three-step process to suit your needs. If a simple yet effective skincare routine is on your wish list this season, it shows that sometimes less is more.
