Retinoids Guide and Natural Alternatives

If you’re an advanced skincare user or a curious consumer, you are probably very familiar with Retinoids / Retinol. This potent active skin care ingredient is considered the ‘fountain of youth’. It is often credited with being the most effective at reducing wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and acne and improving skin tone.
Retinoids have been extensively researched since the ’40s and have been used primarily to control acne. A 1983 study proved that retinoic acid can manage skin ageing. Fast forward to the ’90s, a milder form of Retinoid, Retinol, was available, and since then, Retinoids have become the gold standard of anti-ageing skincare. They are trendy as they are available over the counter and affordable, and some have lower irritation risk. Newcomers like Granactive Retinoid and Bakuchiol are the latest additions to the extended Retinoid family.

In this article, you will learn:

Retinoids definition
types of Retinoids by strength and efficacy
how they work
benefits and side effects
natural Retinoids alternatives
dos and don’ts
how fast can you expect results

What are Retinoids
The term RETINOID is used for Vitamin A derivates; they have been extensively researched and have been used topically to heal acne, reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen synthesis, and smooth skin.

RETINOID = a category of skincare active ingredients
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RETINOL = a form of Retinoid

RETINOIDS can be synthetic and animal derived.

The natural equivalent to RETINOIDS is CAROTENOIDS (precursors of Retinol) and TRANS RETINOIC ACID, or Pro-vitamin A + a newcomer, Bakuchiol (more on this below).

Many Retinoids are available, both cosmetic grade and prescription-only, offering solutions for all skin types, from low potency with low irritation risk to prescription-only with a higher chance of skin reaction.

Native Essentials Skincare Retinoids

How do Retinoids work
Retinoids are available in different forms; some Retinoids are immediately activated as soon as applied topically, like Tretinoin or Cacay oil (Retinoic acid/Trans Retinoic acid); weaker Retinoids need to undergo a ‘conversion’ on the skin to become Retinoic acid/Trans Retinoic acid. The more passages, the weaker the final effect on the skin.
Retinoic acid / Trans Retinoid acid interact directly with the skin’s Retinoid receptors (RAR, RXR), signaling and modulating the skin to repair itself, generate more collagen, and stimulate fibroblasts to synthesize more collagen fibers and remove degenerated elastin fibers.

There is an exception, Bakuchiol; it’s not classified as a Retinoid but its function mimics exactly what Retinoids do.

Native Essentials Skincare Retinoids conversion

Benefits and Side Effects of Retinoids

Here is what both synthetic and natural Retinoids do (with variable degree of efficacy based on the type of Retinoid used):

THE GOOD NEWS

reduce fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the synthesis of new collagen
inhibit enzymes that breakdown and deplete collagen
smooth the skin by modulating the genes involved in skin cell turnover
fade dark spots by peeling off dead skin thus removing old pigmented cells, replacing them with normally pigmented ones
unclog pores
heal acne fast and prevent further acne scarring
exfoliate the skin
stimulate the production of new blood vessels in the skin to improve color

But here is what synthetic and strong Retinols (Retinoic acid, Retinal, Retinol) also can cause:

THE BAD NEWS

dryness and peeling
redness
itching
burning
stinging
irritation
UV sensitivity (that’s why you need to apply them at night)
not suitable during pregnancy and while breastfeeding
may aggravate acne rosacea

***Results from Reinoid usage vary individually. Some of the side effects will disappear after the skin acclimatizes, but in some cases, if the irritation persists, you need to switch to a weaker Retinoid or discontinue.

No side effects with Natural Retinoids
Every skin is unique and it can react to new skincare ingredients in different ways. However, a few studies indicate that natural sources of pro-vitamin A and carotenoids are very well tolerated by all skin types, compared to synthetic Retinoids of similar strength. They are also less drying, more soothing and nourishing that their synthetic counterparts. More evidence is needed, but we know that:

BAKUCHIOL
Is a plant-based ingredient extracted from the seeds and leaves of the Bakuchi/Babchi tree (Psoralea corylifolia). It is a retinol-analogue, because it mimics the action of retinol minus the negative side effects, and it can be used even on delicate areas like the eyes contour.

The peculiarity of BAKUCHIOL is that it performs like a Retinoid but it doesn’t seem to act via the same retinoic acid skin receptors. More research is needed to further confirm the action mechanism, but the results are already very encouraging. Bakuchiol is not very effective in healing acne, but it works very well for fine lines, wrinkles, discoloration, and uneven tone.

We have formulated NOOR • Retinol Eye Oil with Bakuchiol

ROSEHIP OIL, CACAY OIL
They are both rich in ready-available Trans Retinoic acid, the natural equivalent to Retinoic acid aka Tretinoin, the most potent form of Retinoid. Thanks to their complex composition, Rosehip and Cacay add a soothing, calming, anti-inflammatory action with no side effects. No wonder why they are superstar age-delay plant oils!

SHAANT • Regenerating Luxe Oil is formulated with organic Rosehip oil, and
AZUR • Calming Light Oil with Cacay Oil.

BETA-CAROTENE RICH OILS
Rosehip, Sea Buckthorn, Carrot Seeds, Red Palm oil are rich in Beta-Carotene, a form of provitamin A. They convert to Trans Retinoic acid. They are comparable to weaker Retinoids but they are well tolerated by all skin types, even sensitive.

SHAANT • Regenerating Luxe Oil is very rich in beta-carotene (Rosehip, Sea Buckthorn)

How to use Retinoids
Strong Retinoids have a pH range of 4–6.6 (oils like Rosehip, Cacay, Bakuchiol are not pH dependent); as the skin and the acid mantle needs to adjust to the potent action of Retinoids, follow the 8 do’s and don’ts:

Native Essentials skincare dos and don’ts of Retinoids

How long does it take to see results?
Retinoids ‘reprogram and speed up’ the skin renewal process, and this takes time and regular use.

Start synthetic Retinoids gradually while natural Retinoids can be used regularly from the beginning, and once you have achieved your optimum routine you can expect:

Native Essentials Skincare How fast Retinols work

Are you using Retinoids? Share your experience with us in the comments below.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.

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