The most common mistakes with vitamin A, according to skin therapists
As a skin therapist, I’ve seen many skin owners rush to use brand new vitamin A products, only to end up with dry, flaky, and irritated skin. Why? Because it’s a powerful ingredient in skincare. So, if used incorrectly, it can backfire.
Essentially, vitamin A works by improving skin cell turnover and stimulating collagen production. Honestly, I think, with a ton of scientific research, it’s one of the best ingredients to put on your face. I recommend it to all my clients (unless they’re pregnant of course, because that’s not recommended when a little one is growing). So, for example, if you add extra chocolate chips to your baking, it’s totally worth it.
Vitamin A can basically help with everything: aging issues, boosting collagen production, fighting acne and pigmentation, and providing an overall healthy, radiant skin. But! You need to find the right strength and use it correctly along with any other products that work for your skin.
Just because you see other people using certain vitamin A derivatives and it works for them, doesn’t mean it will work for you too.
While we’re on the subject, Retinol A is an umbrella term, and under that umbrella term are Vitamin A derivatives, often called retinol esters, retinol, retinal, retinoic acid, and more. (I explain this in more detail here.)
Okay, there you have those common mistakes I mentioned. Keep them in mind when you decide to add a retinoid to your routine.
You’re not using SPF.
Sorry to start with the most obvious thing, but I would never recommend a Retinol product to a client if they don’t pay attention to their SPF. Just do your daily SPF steps and the rest will fall into place. Sure, sun protection is a daily must, but using active ingredients can make your skin more susceptible to sun damage. So there’s no point in investing in a Retinol product if you don’t apply (and renew) your sunscreen every day.
More is not better.
Like an extra glass of champagne, more is better when it comes to Retinol A. Too much can disrupt the skin barrier, leading to dryness, irritation, and increased sensitivity to the sun. Always do a patch test first (and follow the directions for use). If you’re unsure, just introduce it slowly. Start with once-a-week applications and gradually increase the frequency. It can take up to a month for your skin to adjust to a vitamin A product. A little dryness and/or tenderness is normal during this time, but if you use too much too quickly, it can be a problem in the long run.
They often forget to use it.
Another example I see often is people forgetting to use vitamin A. You need to use skincare consistently to get the best results, and your skin needs to adjust to it, too! Missing vitamin A or forgetting to use it delays cell turnover, and often means you have to start all over again when you take your vitamin A back. It’s like going to the gym: consistency = results.
They combine it with too many other active ingredients.
Big mistake, huge. Vitamin A is an active ingredient in skincare. So when introducing it into your routine, you need to be aware of the other active ingredients you’re using. Combining vitamin A with too many other active ingredients can irritate the skin, and that’s because most active ingredients promote cell turnover.
Honestly, I see a lot of skin barriers in my clinic that are damaged from mixing too many skincare products – that’s why I keep preaching this. Dryness, redness, pain, and tenderness are all signs that you’re over-treating your skin! First, avoid using acids with retinoids until your skin has built up a tolerance. Use vitamin C products only in the morning and vitamin A only at night.
You’re not providing your skin with enough hydration.
Active ingredients are great, but when you take something away from your skin, you have to give something back. Hydrated skin is healthy skin! Moisturizing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, glycerin help replenish moisture and strengthen the barrier (allowing your skin to better tolerate the effects of vitamin A). Soothing ingredients like bisabolol can also help soothe any potential irritation.
You’re using the wrong derivative for your skin type.
Not all vitamin A is created equal. Formula matters, and so does strength. You need to find one that works for your skin type. This is where consulting a skin therapist can help (hello, call me!). Using the wrong vitamin A derivative can upset the delicate balance between promoting cell turnover and maintaining barrier integrity, leading to potential irritation or frustrating lack of results.
You use it in the morning.
Vitamin A products should only be used at night (after cleanser and before moisturizing serum) because they can cause photosensitivity. Sunlight also depletes their antioxidant properties and can increase skin sensitivity as it stimulates cell turnover.
So! I hope this information helps! In my opinion, Vitamin A is a must in any skincare routine, but you need to introduce it slowly, trust the process, and be mindful of your skin barrier when introducing it. It’s the key to healthy, radiant skin.
DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life.
What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin?
Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition.
Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes.
If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider.
What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin?
Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity.
Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C.
Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post.
Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster.
This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster.
While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin.
It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin.
Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning?
Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance.
You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather.
Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
