Dermatologist Shares Her 2024 Skincare Resolutions
2024 will be the year my skin glows and I can feel the positive changes. As a dermatologist with a wide range of responsibilities, including a dermatology practice and obstetrics, finding time for a skincare routine can be challenging. Despite the wealth of tools and knowledge I have, I often fall short of my best self. This year, my resolution is to make small, impactful commitments to prioritize my skin health.
Below are my skin goals for 2024. I’m excited for the journey ahead. Wish me luck!
Retinol Cycle.
Retinol is one of the few active ingredients with data to support its anti-aging promise. Since I’m in my 40s, I’m no stranger to the benefits of retinol, and in 2024, I plan to really focus on incorporating it into my skincare routine. I want to implement a retinol cycle strategy that I use exclusively at night. I alternate between different strengths to optimize cell turnover.
By switching brands and adjusting strengths at the end of each use, I aim to protect my skin from environmental damage and prevent visible signs of aging. I would try a known intensity, such as 1%, starting gradually and gradually increasing the frequency over a period of several months. It was a conscious and deliberate approach to improving my skincare habits for the coming year.
Maintain a regular laser regimen.
In the world of skincare technology, I am fortunate to have access to state-of-the-art lasers through my practice, ODE Dermatology. As a dedicated dermatologist, I am passionate about providing laser regimens and personalized rituals to my clients every day. However, I must admit that I have not consistently applied this expertise to my own skincare routine, and as life progresses, I often struggle to find time for consistent care.
But 2024 marked a change for me—I emphasized self-care, as I advise every client. I recognized the visible signs of aging (goodbye collagen loss) and major concerns like melasma on my cheeks, and created a 12-month plan for myself. Using a combination of non-ablative lasers like the Moxi 1927 and collagen-inducing and hyaluronic acid-stimulating regimens like Ultraformer and Exion, I was determined to restore my skin’s radiance. It’s time to treat yourself as you would like to be treated by others.
Laser treatments are not truly comprehensive if not combined with home care. Skin care tailored to your specific concerns and skin type plays a vital role in maximizing the effectiveness of in-clinic treatments. This approach ensures that the skin not only heals after laser treatment, but also receives the nutrients and optimization it needs for a healthy and radiant barrier. It’s the synergy of professional care and personalized home care that will keep your skin looking its best.
Skin care, but hair.
I specialize in hair care, whether it’s promoting hair growth, preventing hair loss, or treating complex autoimmune diseases. One aspect that many of my clients often overlook is the importance of scalp skin and its impact on overall hair health. In 2024, my main focus will be optimizing the scalp microbiome to ensure the best possible growth, health, and quality of hair.
I like to think of the skin surrounding the hair follicles as the soil in which plants thrive. Their quality has a profound impact on prosperity, and this is a message I want to spread far and wide. My skincare routine is constantly evolving to prioritize scalp health, carefully considering which products I include (or exclude) in my daily and weekly regimen. My favourite products for the next year will be marigold, rosemary and burdock root. Together with essential fatty acids and phytosterols, they nourish the scalp and promote optimal hair growth. It’s time to raise our awareness of the holistic connection between a healthy scalp and strong, luscious hair.
Dr. Shammi Theesan is a respected dermatologist in Fitzroy, Melbourne, and the visionary founder of ODE Dermatology. With a commitment to transformative results, Dr. Theesan seamlessly combines science with traditional health measures. Her approach embodies a harmonious combination of cutting-edge dermatological practices and time-tested holistic wellness, offering a unique and effective approach to skin health.
DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life.
What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin?
Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition.
Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes.
If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider.
What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin?
Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity.
Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C.
Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post.
Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster.
This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster.
While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin.
It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin.
Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning?
Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance.
You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather.
Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
