Chemical Acids: Are These Skincare Ingredients Still Classified as “Natural”?
When skincare products come with labels like “chemical acid,” alarm bells ring. It sounds scary, bad, and the exact opposite of what we should be giving our skin care and protection.
But these ingredients—AHAs, BHAs, PHAs—are (or can be) derived from natural plant sources. In many other contexts, we continue to view the terms “chemical” and “acid” as villains on their own, but when you combine them to talk about skin care and cosmetics, they get the green light.
Chemical acids are active ingredients that we know have biological effects on the skin or skin health. They are ingredients in formulas that are designed to deliver the dramatic effects that the product promises. Like opening pores, softening fine lines, and even skin tone. But be aware that the strength and concentration of the active ingredient used, as well as your skin type, can affect how dramatic the changes are.
The word “chemical” is only used to describe the type of exfoliation (as opposed to the more familiar and perhaps more traditional physical exfoliation). Instead of using rough or jagged particles to remove dead skin cells, we use these naturally occurring chemicals to create a similar reaction and get better results. The exfoliation is more thorough and the skin tone is more even, which is why we prefer this method.
To break down the term “acid,” I’d say anything that has a pungent odor, tastes sour, has a pH below 7, and causes corrosion. But some kind of skin context is missing, right? So I called Nick, the technical director of Go-To’s Peachy Lab: “When it comes to exfoliation, we generally talk about hydroxy carboxylic acids. How they work and why they’re called that has a lot to do with the structure of the molecule and how close the hydroxyl group is to the carboxylic acid group. When there’s one carbon atom between these ingredients, we call them alpha (hydroxy acids), when there’s two carbon atoms between them, we call them beta (hydroxy acids), and when there are lots and lots of hydroxyls, we call them poly (hydroxy acids).”
When used topically responsibly (no lemon on your face, please), chemical acids help dissolve the proteins that hold skin cells together. This removes dead cells from the skin’s surface, revealing a smoother, more radiant complexion.
Depending on the strength of the acid, you may actually see peeling with your naked eye. Have you ever noticed that after exfoliating, you see little flakes fall off your face? Yes, you are absolutely right. These are dead cells.
So, tell us about the natural sources!
AHAs: Typically obtained from sugar cane and fruits (lemon, grapefruit, tomato), and also found in milk.
BHAs: Typically obtained from willow bark, holly or sweet birch trees and fruits (berries, pineapple, papaya).
PHAs: Typically derived from corn and potatoes.
DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life.
What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin?
Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition.
Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes.
If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider.
What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin?
Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity.
Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C.
Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post.
Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster.
This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster.
While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin.
It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin.
Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning?
Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance.
You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather.
Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
