Acne during menopause can be annoying, but it’s totally normal
Aside from comments about dryness, wrinkles, and fine lines, menopausal acne is rarely talked about. You thought you got rid of that annoying boyfriend in high school, didn’t you?
But the good news is that the silver lining for unabashedly silver-haired ladies is that with a personalized approach and the right skincare routine, you can easily prevent the onset of midlife acne. Let’s (briefly) break down the known causes and prevention options to guide you through this problem.
The cause.
Big hormonal changes, of course. But let’s expand on that. The female hormone estrogen drops rapidly during menopause (both perimenopause and postmenopause), disrupting the delicate balance of androgens, especially testosterone, which had previously worked so well together to produce a calm and healthy complexion. When estrogen levels drop, testosterone increases, leading to increased sebum production, which can lead to constipation. A small group of facial hair also forms on the chin at this time, as most of the androgen receptors are located in this lower area of the face.
Our old friends estrogen and testosterone are two of the same sex hormones that can cause skin problems during important life stages like puberty, early adulthood, and pregnancy. During these times, however, estrogen is more of an ebb and flow, fluctuating one way or the other, in stark contrast to the dramatic drop in estrogen during menopause.
As any woman who has gone through or is going through menopause will quickly discover, stress is also a key factor in this life change. This systemic response to the reproductive organs typically occurs and essentially ceases between the ages of 45 and 55, when your career may have peaked, you’re raising excitable teenagers, and you’re embracing that newfound confidence and desire while maintaining healthy relationships. An increase in the stress hormone cortisol often manifests itself during flare-ups. Trying to make your lifestyle more calm during these years is essential for your skin health and overall well-being.
Prevention.
The most effective treatments for menopausal acne focus on trying to correct the hormonal imbalances mentioned above, which often means taking an inside-out approach. After a visit or 74 with your trusted primary care physician (which we highly recommend), you may be prescribed anti-androgen medications to stop these acne-causing, facial hair-growth-inducing hormones from overreacting.
On a more surface level, your usual acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide and retinol may help, but you should be careful with these ingredients, as they can make dry skin (which is also common during menopause) even drier. Instead or in conjunction with these treatments, look for gentle products/ingredients that are known to deeply nourish and intensely hydrate.
AHAs – your “Aha!” moment when establishing an effective skincare routine during menopause. They dissolve the glue that holds skin cells together, speeding up cell turnover. Increased cell turnover = new skin cells and a powerful glow. We recommend incorporating them into your nightly skincare routine 2-3 times per week to keep pores clear and unclogged.
Ceramides (which occur naturally in the skin, but their production slowly declines after 30 years) are excellent moisturizers for dry skin, helping to plump, restore, and protect this barrier. Found in rich moisturizers and face masks, ceramides strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier and help regulate oil production.
Don’t oversleep hyaluronic acid—it’s like giving your confused menopausal skin a big glass of water. The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid allows it to easily penetrate the skin, attracting and retaining moisture for maximum plumping and firming results. Once hyaluronic acid is absorbed into the skin, it stays there and continues to attract and lock in moisture. What’s not to like about that?
A menopausal skin-care routine should be based on three basic principles: be gentle, lock in moisture, and prevent moisture loss. This decade or so will really test the integrity of your skin, so lean on these super-nourishing solutions to ensure a happy, healthy, calm face (and don’t forget, your face ends at your breasts).
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
