The Science of Phytosterols in Skin Care
Did you know that the same compounds that help plants stand tall and weather harsh environments can also keep your skin firm and youthful? These compounds, called phytosterols, are known not only for their ability to give plants strength and stability, but also for their ability to hydrate, repair, and rejuvenate your skin. Just as these plant-based powerhouses fortify cell walls in nature, they can strengthen your skin’s barrier, making it more resilient to aging and environmental damage.
Here, I’ll explain more about the science of phytosterols and what makes them so effective, as well as the specific benefits and side effects you should know about before introducing them into your skin care routine so you can maximize their benefits based on your unique skin type. If you don’t know your Baumann Skin Type yet, take the quiz first so you’ll know how to best incorporate these ingredients into your routine.
Phytosterols are similar to the natural cholesterol in our skin.
These plant compounds help to hydrate and protect the skin.
Some plant oils like coconut and olive oils can clog pores, so acne-prone skin types should avoid them.
What Are Phytosterols?
Phytosterols, also known as plant sterols, are a group of compounds found in plant cell membranes. Structurally similar to cholesterol in humans, phytosterols help plants maintain the integrity and functionality of their cell membranes. Due to this resemblance to cholesterol, phytosterols can impart a variety of unique benefits onto the skin.
Most notably, phytosterols are known for their ability to enhance the skin barrier, improve hydration, and improve signs of aging. In some skin care formulations, phytosterols can also help to calm inflammation and repair skin damage.
How Are Phytosterols Similar to Cholesterol in the Skin?
Phytosterols and cholesterol are both fat-soluble compounds that are structurally similar, which allows them to interact with the skin in similar ways. Both types of lipids play crucial roles in maintaining the integrity of cell membranes. In the skin, cholesterol helps to strengthen the lipid barrier, preventing water loss and protecting against environmental damage.
Plant sterols can mimic this function by reinforcing the skin’s barrier, enhancing hydration, and aiding in skin repair. Just as cholesterol supports skin health by maintaining moisture and elasticity, phytosterols provide similar benefits, making them valuable in skin care products focused on hydration and anti-aging.
Examples of Phytosterols
Plant sterols are found in oils that are derived from a variety of plant sources, each offering unique benefits for your skin. Here are a few of the most common types you’ll find in skin care products:
Beta-sitosterol is one of the most common phytosterols and is found in plant oils like avocado, coconut, castor, grapeseed, and olive oil. It is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties.
Schottenol and spinasterol are unique sterols found in argan oil, known for its anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing properties. It helps to repair the skin barrier, making it beneficial for dry and sensitive skin.
Campesterol is extracted from sunflower, corn, rapeseed, and soybean oils and is used to help improve skin elasticity and texture.
Stigmasterol comes from soybeans and certain legumes and is known for its role in repairing skin and reducing inflammation.
Brassicasterol is derived from canola oil and can help to repair the skin barrier.
Benefits of Phytosterols for the Skin
Phytosterols offer a range of benefits for your skin. Here are some of the most common skin care concerns that phytosterols can help to correct:
Dry skin. Because phytosterols are so similar to the cholesterol naturally found in our skin, these ingredients are excellent at repairing and reinforcing the skin’s lipid barrier. This helps to prevent moisture loss, keeping your skin plump and hydrated.
Signs of aging. Plant sterols can also help to stimulate collagen production, thus improving signs of skin aging like fine lines, wrinkles, and loose skin over time (3).
Dark spots. Phytosterols also have strong antioxidant qualities, allowing them to help neutralize free radicals, which cause oxidative damage and accelerate the aging process if left unchecked.
Inflammation and redness. Phytosterols have strong anti-inflammatory properties, allowing them to calm irritated skin and improve conditions like rosacea or eczema.
Damaged skin. Plant sterols support cell regeneration and repair, making them beneficial for sun-damaged skin.
Side Effects of Phytosterols in Skin Care
The most notable side effect of phytosterols to watch out for is their tendency to clog pores. Some oils are more comedogenic (pore-clogging) than others. Coconut oil and olive oil, for example, are known comedogenic ingredients , so it is best to avoid these ingredients if you have acne-prone skin.
How to Use Plant Sterols in Your Skin Care Routine
Incorporating phytosterols into your skin care routine is easy, especially since they are often included in a wide range of products. Look for moisturizers, serums, and oils that contain plant sterols as a key ingredient and are a match for your skin type.
For example, if you have dry or aging skin, you can choose a rich cream with beta-sitosterol to boost hydration and skin repair. For those with sensitive or acne-prone skin, look for lightweight serums with phytosterols to reduce inflammation without clogging pores.
If you are unsure about which products are right for you, take the Baumann Skin Type Quiz to discover your specific skin type and find the best formulations for your skin’s unique needs.
Below are some examples of high-quality skin care products that contain plant sterols.
Bottom Line
Phytosterols are powerful plant-based skin care ingredients that can be easily added to your daily skin care routine. The key is to choose the plant sterols that are best-suited for your skin type so you do not worsen clogged pores or acne. Take the quick and easy skin type quiz below to find your skin type and the best plant-based ingredients like phytosterols for your skin’s unique needs.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
