Octapeptide-45 in skin care
Octapeptide-45 is an advanced peptide that has gained attention in skincare due to its potent role in stimulating hyaluronic acid (HA) production. As a proprietary peptide used in advanced formulations like Alastin’s HA IMMERSE Serum®, Octapeptide-45 has become an exciting ingredient in the fight against skin aging. In this blog, we’ll explore what Octapeptide-45 is, how it works, its benefits, potential side effects, and how it can be used in combination with other skincare ingredients.
Found in Alastin Immerse HA Serum
Increases production of large MW hyaluronic acid
Soothing, hydrating and antiaging
Firms skin making it plump and youthful
What is Octapeptide-45?
Octapeptide-45 is a short-chain amino acid sequence, with a molecular weight of approximately 1,000 Daltons (Da), that primarily functions to stimulate the body’s production of hyaluronic acid, particularly high molecular weight (HMW) HA. Hyaluronic acid is a key substance in skin health, contributing to hydration, elasticity, and a youthful appearance. Unlike other peptides, Octapeptide-45 specifically targets and upregulates Hyaluronan Synthase-2 (HAS2) in dermal fibroblasts, which results in the production of HA molecules around 2 MegaDaltons (MDa) in size. These large HA molecules are known for their stability and resistance to enzymatic degradation, prolonging their effects in the skin.
Mechanism of Action
Octapeptide-45 works by enhancing the skin’s ability to produce its own high molecular weight hyaluronic acid. It stimulates dermal fibroblasts, the cells responsible for creating HA, by upregulating the HAS2 enzyme. The result is the generation of large HA molecules that offer superior hydration and skin regeneration. These large HA molecules are more resilient and less likely to break down, which ensures prolonged hydration and anti-aging effects. Additionally, this mechanism creates an anti-inflammatory environment in the skin, reducing redness and irritation, making Octapeptide-45 particularly beneficial for those with sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea.
Benefits of Octapeptide-45
Octapeptide-45’s ability to increase hyaluronic acid in the skin leads to several significant improvements in skin appearance:
Reduction in Redness: Large MW HA helps reduce inflammation by blocking inflammatory pathways
Enhanced Radiance: Increased hydration makes the skin appear more luminous and vibrant.
Plumper-Looking Skin: By boosting the skin’s water-retention abilities, it appears fuller, tighter, and firmer
Improved Elasticity: The additional HA supports the skin’s structural integrity, making it more resilient and firm.
Reduction in Fine Lines and Wrinkles: Hydrated skin naturally plumps out fine lines, reducing their appearance.
Smoother Skin Texture: The boost in moisture and HA helps to create a more even, smoother-looking complexion.
Softness : Skin feels softer to the touch, thanks to the enhanced hydration.
These benefits make Octapeptide-45 a standout ingredient in anti-aging formulations.
Side Effects and Downsides
Octapeptide-45 is considered very safe, with minimal side effects reported in clinical trials. Nearly zero side effects were observed during studies, making it suitable for sensitive and wrinkle-prone skin types.
Products Containing Octapeptide-45
At this time, the only brand that uses this peptide technology is Alastin Skincare.
Alastin Skincare harness the power of Octapeptide-45 in it’s HA IMMERSE Serum®, which is specifically designed to boost hyaluronic acid production and provide long-lasting hydration. This serum is focused on delivering deep, long-term hydration using large molecular weight HA.
Compatibility with Other Ingredients
Some peptides do nto work well when combined with other ingredients. Octapeptide-45 can safely be used alongside other popular skincare ingredients such as retinol and hydroquinone. In fact, combining Octapeptide-45 with these active ingredients can enhance the overall benefits of a skincare routine.
Retinol, for instance, promotes skin cell turnover, while hydroquinone helps to even out skin tone. Octapeptide-45 supports these actions by ensuring the skin stays hydrated and calm, reducing the potential for irritation that can sometimes occur with these potent ingredients.
Conclusion
Octapeptide-45 offers a unique approach to antiaging skin care by increasing the skin’s hyaluronic acid levels, particularly high molecular weight HA. Its benefits of skin hydration, firming, and a reduction in fine lines make it very popular for use in many age groups. It can be used when you are as young as 20 because it does not cause sensitivity and it not an exfoliant. With minimal side effects, it’s a safe and powerful addition to any skincare routine, and its compatibility with other active ingredients like retinol and hydroquinone makes it versatile for a variety of skin concerns.
Stay tuned by subscribing to our newsletter where we share breakthroughs in skincare research. That way you can stay informed as the use of Octapeptide-45 continues to evolve. If you have questions, come join the discussion on Reddit at r/skintypesolutions.
Best References and Scientific Publications on Octapeptide-45
Baumann L. Antiaging Ingredients in Ch. 37 of Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology Ed 3. (McGraw Hill 2022)
Baumann, L. Ch. Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients (McGraw Hill 2015)
Widgerow, A. D., Ziegler, M. E., Garruto, J. A., Mraz Robinson, D., Palm, M. D., Vega, J. H., & Bell, M. (2022). Designing topical hyaluronic acid technology—Size does matter…. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 21(7), 2865-2870.
Robinson, D. M., Vega, J., Palm, M. D., Bell, M., Widgerow, A. D., & Giannini, A. (2022). Multicenter evaluation of a topical hyaluronic acid serum. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 21(9), 3848-3858.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.