Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate in Skin Care
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, also known as SYN®-HYCAN, is a small peptide (less than 500 Da) widely used in skincare products for its powerful anti-aging properties. This peptide is specifically designed to boost hyaluronic acid (HA) production within the skin. HA is a crucial component of the extracellular matrix (ECM), which helps retain moisture, adding volume and improving skin firmness.
This fascinating ingredient is found in the top selling medical grade skin care brand Alastin.
In this article, I will discuss why this is one of the hotttest new antiaging ingredients in skin care.
Boosts Hyaluronic Acid production
Enhances skin firmness and elasticity
Improves skin hydration
Has a poor EWG safety rating due to a component that is a PFA
What is SYN®-HYCAN?
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate is a peptide that increases hyaluronic acid (HA) synthesis within the skin. By boosting HA production, it helps the skin retain more moisture, adding volume and making it appear plumper. Increasing HA within the extracellular matrix (ECM) facilitates signaling that improves fibroblast functionality, leading to increased production of many components such as HA and collagen. This plumps skin volume, firms skin, decreases laxity and reduces sagging. It hydrates and strengthens the skin structure, contributing to a smoother, more youthful complexion.
What Does It Do?
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate works by increasing the production of hyaluronic acid, which is a naturally occurring substance in the skin responsible for maintaining moisture and structural integrity. It stimulates the fibroblasts, which are the skin cells that produce collagen and HA, to increase HA synthesis. As the levels of HA in the skin rise, skin retains more water, leading to enhanced hydration, plumper skin, and reduced appearance of wrinkles. This peptide’s action also supports collagen production, which in turn firms, strengthens, and smooths the skin.
Matrisome
Increasing levels of HA helps improve matrisome function.
The matrisome is the collection of proteins and structures that make up the extracellular matrix (ECM) and are essential for skin health. It provides a scaffold for cells, helping maintain the skin’s structure and communication between cells like fibroblasts, which are responsible for producing collagen, HA, other glycosaminoglycans, and key proteins.
Function of the Matrisome
The matrisome surrounds fibroblasts and supports the cytoskeleton, which helps fibroblasts adhere to the matrix and communicate with other cells. The matrisome’s interaction with the fibroblast cytoskeleton generates mechanical forces, which are transmitted through structures called LINX complexes to the fibroblast’s DNA. This “tug” on the cytoskeleton activates the fibroblast’s DNA to produce important components like collagen and hyaluronic acid, which are crucial for keeping the skin firm, hydrated, and youthful. (1)
Benefits
Increasing the amount of HA in skin gives the following skin benefits:
Firms
Tightens
Reduces Laxity
Hydrates
Plumps
Gives Jello-O skin
Side Effects and Safety
This ingredient receives a safety rating of 10 from the Environmental Working Group (EWG), indicating that it is considered unsafe. The concern arises from the inclusion of trifluoroacetate , a fluorinated compound classified as a PFA (Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substance). PFAs are known for their strong carbon-fluorine bonds, which make them highly persistent in the environment and raise potential health concerns due to their bioaccumulation and toxicity.
There seems to be differing opinions about the safety of this ingredient. I am looking into this to learn more.
SYN®-HYCAN is well-tolerated by most skin types, with minimal reported side effects.
Products
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate is a key ingredient in HA Serums. The tripeptide works by increasing the skin’s HA production, making it one of the most effective products for achieving plump and hydrated skin.
Research Studies
Several interesting studies have highlighted the ability of Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate to increase HA in skin.
Widgerow et al. (2022) : This study focused on the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid (HA). Widgerow et al. demonstrated that SYN®-HYCAN stimulates fibroblast production of high molecular weight HA (~2 MDa), which has anti-inflammatory and regenerative properties. The peptide was found to significantly improve skin hydration and regeneration, promoting a healthier extracellular matrix.
Garre et al. (2017) : In an open-label clinical study, a SYN®-HYCAN-based product was tested on 33 women aged 45–65. After 56 days, the participants showed improved facial contouring, skin firmness, hydration, and elasticity. The peptide’s ability to increase HA production was linked to reduced sagging and wrinkles, with participants also reporting subjective improvements in skin texture.
Gempeler et al. (2018) : This study explored the impact of SYN®-HYCAN on dermal remodeling. Using advanced imaging techniques, the peptide was shown to enhance skin volume and firmness across multiple facial zones. Over 87% of the study participants reported smoother, more supple skin, with nearly 70% confirming improved elasticity. This supports the peptide’s role in non-invasive facial remodeling.
These studies together highlight SYN®-HYCAN’s effectiveness in increasing HA production and enhancing skin firmness and hydration, making it a potent anti-aging ingredient.
Conclusion
In conclusion, SYN®-HYCAN is a scientifically backed peptide that significantly boosts hyaluronic acid production, enhancing skin hydration, volume, and firmness. Multiple studies have demonstrated its ability to reduce sagging, improve facial contour, and promote a more youthful appearance. By supporting the extracellular matrix, it offers non-invasive anti-aging benefits, making it an effective ingredient in modern skincare.
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DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.