What to Do about Pesky Retinol Peeling

If you have ever used retinoids like tretinoin, adapalene, or tazarotene for their amazing anti-aging or acne-fighting benefits, you are probably familiar with one of their most notable side effects: skin peeling. Sometimes referred to as the “retinol uglies,” this skin flaking can be unsightly and is often made worse when you apply makeup or concealer on top of it. Retinol peeling is also often worse around the eyes and can make the delicate skin in this area look dull or tired.

Fortunately, there are some things you can do to fix and even minimize retinol peeling. Here, I discuss why your face gets flaky when using retinoids and what you can do about it.

Retinol peeling is normal and usually happens for the first several weeks after starting a new retinol regimen.

Gentle exfoliation, mixing an HA serum with your makeup, and using a barrier repair moisturizing cream can help with retinol peeling.

Gradually increase the strength and frequency with which you apply retinoids to minimize retinol peeling and dryness.

Why Does Retinol Peeling Happen?

Retinoids speed up skin cell turnover by increasing the rate of desquamation, which is the exfoliation process that your skin naturally undergoes to shed dead skin cells from the surface. Retinoids achieve this by boosting the activity of a growth factor called epidermal growth factor (EGF), which causes the outer layer of skin cells, called keratinocytes, to multiply and differentiate faster than usual (3, 4).

Research shows that retinoids enhance the number of EGF receptors, which in turn speeds up skin regeneration and repair. While this process is excellent for treating acne, hyperpigmentation, and signs of aging, this rapid cell turnover often leads to the retinol peeling you see as dead skin cells shed at a faster rate than your skin is used to (5).

Increased epidermal growth factor also causes your skin’s outer layer to thicken (a process known as hyperplasia), which is actually a good thing, as it strengthens the skin barrier over time. However, during the initial phase of introducing a retinoid into your skin care regimen, this cell renewal process can cause peeling, dryness, and irritation as your skin adjusts.

How to Fix Retinol Peeling

While retinoids do commonly cause flaking and dryness for the first several weeks of use, you can help to minimize retinol peeling with these tips.

Gentle Exfoliation

Retinoids are already an exfoliant, so you do need to be careful not to over-exfoliate your skin while using them, which can make retinol peeling worse. However, you can use a gentle facial scrub when you need to get rid of the flakes for an important event or other instance when you want your skin to look its best. At other times, just let the desquamation happen on its own. Over time, the amount of retinol peeling you see should decrease.

Use gentle exfoliation about every three days and time it for when you need to wear makeup. Otherwise, makeup can become trapped in the crevices between flaking skin cells and accentuate their appearance.

Mix a Hyaluronic Acid (HA) Serum with Makeup

When you do need to wear makeup while introducing your skin to a retinoid, adding an HA serum to your makeup or concealer can help to smooth the skin and minimize the appearance of retinol peeling. My favorite serum for this purpose is the Alastin HA Immerse Serum.

You can also mix your regular moisturizer with makeup, but I find that the Alastin HA serum works best for retinol peeling, and I have tried many of them!

Use a Soothing Barrier Repair Moisturizer

Regularly applying a barrier repair moisturizer while using retinoids is essential to minimize flaking, dryness, and irritation. Barrier repair moisturizers help to keep moisture sealed inside your skin, while also keeping irritants out.

Some of my favorite barrier repair moisturizers to use with retinoids include:

How Long Does Retinol Peeling Last?

Generally speaking, retinol peeling can last around four weeks. However, the exact duration of the “retinol uglies” will vary from person to person and will depend on a number of factors, such as your skin type, how often you are using the retinoid, and the strength of the active ingredient. While many people are tempted to stop using retinoids when their skin begins to peel or becomes dry, do not give up! As your skin adjusts to retinol, flaking and dryness should subside and you will start seeing smoother, clearer, and more even-toned skin.

Can You Prevent Retinol Peeling?

While it is difficult to prevent all retinol peeling, especially when first starting a retinoid, there are some things you can do to minimize this common side effect. Most importantly, make sure you gradually introduce your skin to a retinoid. You can also talk to your dermatologist about starting with a lower strength retinoid if you have never used these ingredients before. You can then gradually work your way up to a stronger product to help minimize retinol peeling.

Additionally, know which ingredients don’t mix well with retinoids to help reduce retinol peeling. Do not use more than a gentle exfoliating scrub while using retinoids, as too much exfoliation will make flaking and peeling worse. If you are just starting a retinoid regimen, avoid products that contain acids like glycolic acid or salicylic acid, as these can make flaking and dryness worse. Of course, your skin care regimen should be tailored to your Baumann Skin Type so you do not make problems like dryness, redness, or irritation worse by using the wrong products for your skin.

Bottom Line

Retinoids like retinol, tretinoin, adapalene, and tazarotene are some of the best anti-aging ingredients out there. While the flaking they can cause – sometimes called retinol peeling or “retinol uglies” – makes many people afraid to use them, following the tips in this guide can help you reap the many benefits of retinoids while minimizing their side effects.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.

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