Ferments and Fermentation in Skincare

Fermented ingredients are trending in skincare, but how much do we really know about their benefits and efficacy? This article will explore the science behind ferments, their potential benefits, side effects, and the different types used in popular skincare products like those from SkinMedica and Revision Skincare. We’ll also delve into their origins, how they’re made, and examine research studies that provide insight into their effectiveness.

Hottest skin care trend today

Little data to back up claims

Ferments have interesting benefits

Each type has different benefits

What Are Ferments?

Fermentation is a metabolic process where microorganisms such as bacteria, yeast, and fungi break down complex organic compounds, such as carbohydrates, into simpler substances like acids, gases, and alcohol. In skincare, fermentation often enhances the bioavailability of ingredients, making them more potent and easily absorbed by the skin. Through this process, the size of molecules is reduced, allowing active ingredients to penetrate deeper into the skin.

Wondering if these are right for your skin? Find out which of the 16 skin types you are and we can give you personalized advice.

Benefits of Fermentation

The use of ferments in skincare is inspired by traditional methods, but modern science has taken it to new heights by isolating specific strains of microorganisms to yield targeted skincare benefits. There is not a lot of convincing research yet, but these are the purported benefits of using fermented ingredients in skincare.

Enhanced Absorption

Fermentation breaks down larger molecules into smaller, more easily absorbed particles, increasing the potency of active ingredients such as vitamins, amino acids, and antioxidants.

Increased Efficacy

Fermented ingredients can increase the concentration of active compounds, such as peptides and enzymes, enhancing the effectiveness of products.

Microbiome Balance

Some fermented ingredients, like probiotics, can help balance the skin’s microbiome, supporting the growth of beneficial bacteria while minimizing harmful bacteria.

Side Effects and Downsides

While ferments offer many benefits, they are not without potential side effects. Fermented ingredients may cause irritation in sensitive skin types, especially if the fermentation process increases the acidity of the product. Additionally, there is limited data on the long-term efficacy of fermented ingredients.

Types of Ferments

There are many types of ferments. This article will focus on the most popular ferments used in skin care products today.

Alteromonas Ferment Extract

This ferment is derived from Alteromonas macleodii, a marine bacterium. Alteromonas ferment extract is a key anti-aging and anti-pollution ingredient. Rich in polysaccharides, it chelates heavy metals like cadmium and lead, offering skin protection against pollution. It has been shown to increase collagen production by up to 67% in fibroblast cell cultures. Its high molecular weight polysaccharides also enhance skin hydration by stimulating hyaluronic acid production and improving skin elasticity.

Bacillus Lysate

Source: Derived from the Bacillus species of bacteria, this ferment is obtained through the fermentation of Bacillus strains isolated from various environments, including thermal springs.

Benefits: Bacillus Lysate is gaining attention for its potential anti-aging benefits. It has been shown to reduce wrinkle depth by increasing collagen production. It works by enhancing cellular repair mechanisms and reducing inflammation. Research also highlights its role in increasing the skin’s antioxidant capacity, reducing free radicals and oxidative damage.

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Source : This lysate is derived from the fermentation of Bifida bacteria, a probiotic commonly found in the gut.

Benefits : It is known to strengthen the skin’s natural barrier, making it more resistant to environmental stressors. Additionally, it has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for sensitive or compromised skin. Found in Lancôme’s Advanced Génifique

Chlorella Vulgaris/lupinus Albus Protein Ferment

Chlorella Vulgaris/Lupinus Albus Protein Ferment contains antioxidants like chlorophyll, beta-carotene, and lutein, which protect the skin from oxidative damage and premature aging by neutralizing harmful free radicals.

The ferment has anti-inflammatory properties derived from its peptides and proteins, which help calm redness and soothe irritated or sensitive skin.

Additionally, the ferment supports collagen production through lupin-derived peptides, contributing to improved skin firmness and elasticity. It enhances hydration by strengthening the skin’s barrier, reducing moisture loss, and helping the skin maintain its suppleness.

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate

Galactomyces is a type of yeast used in the fermentation process. This ingredient is used in SK-II’s Treatment Essence.

Known for its brightening and hydrating properties, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate improves skin texture and radiance. The fermentation process produces peptides, amino acids, and vitamins, which contribute to its anti-aging effects.

Kombucha Ferment

Derived from tea fermented by Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Acetobacter, Kombucha has gained much popularity. This ferment is rich in probiotics, antioxidants, and vitamins. It helps improve skin firmness and hydration while balancing the skin’s microbiome. The fermentation process increases the bioavailability of polyphenols, making them more effective at protecting the skin from oxidative stress and improving skin tone. It’s a popular ingredient that claims to soothe and revitalize skin.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Fermented using Leuconostoc, a type of lactic acid bacteria, and radish root. Known for its natural preservative properties, this ferment filtrate is commonly used as a safe alternative to synthetic preservatives in skincare. It also has mild moisturizing properties and can help balance the skin’s microbiome, promoting the growth of beneficial bacteria while preventing harmful bacteria from thriving. Its antimicrobial properties make it especially useful in products designed for acne-prone skin.

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Derived from marine bacterium Pseudoalteromonas. This ferment extract contains proteins and polysaccharides that offer moisture retention and skin repair benefits. It has been shown to stimulate collagen production, improving skin texture. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for sensitive or damaged skin. Its ability to protect against environmental stressors like UV damage and pollution further enhances its role in skincare formulations.

Saccharide Isomerase

Produced through the fermentation of Streptococcus pyogenes. Saccharide Isomerase acts as a humectant, deeply hydrating the skin by converting glucose to fructose. It enhances moisture retention, softens skin texture, and repairs the skin barrier. It also reduces irritation and supports anti-aging by promoting skin elasticity and plumpness while fighting free radical damage.

Thermus Thermophillus Ferment

Thermus thermophillus ferment is an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient derived from a marine bacterium. It reduces inflammation by suppressing NF-κB , a transcription factor that controls pro-inflammatory cytokines like TNF-α and IL-6 , which helps calm and soothe the skin. Additionally, it acts as a humectant , attracting moisture and preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) , thereby improving skin hydration. By reducing oxidative stress and inflammation, it supports anti-aging efforts by preventing damage and maintaining skin elasticity. In skincare, it calms irritation, enhances hydration, and has anti-aging effects. It is found in the skin care products shown below.

Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate

Source: This ferment is derived from a marine bacterium found in deep-sea waters. It’s often used for its ability to provide rapid hydration and strengthen the skin’s barrier.

Benefits: Clinical studies suggest that Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate may increase skin hydration, improve firmness, and promote a lifting effect. One study found a visible reduction in wrinkle depth after 30 minutes of application. It is also known to stimulate sirtuin-3, a protein linked to cellular energy production and longevity, thereby improving the skin’s resilience against oxidative stress.

Where do Ferments Come From?

Ferments are derived from various sources, including bacteria, fungi, and yeast. Marine-derived ferments, in particular, are a growing area of interest in the skincare industry. During the 2010 Malaspina Expedition, scientists collected marine samples from five continents and isolated over 120 previously unknown bacterial strains. These strains are studied for their potential anti-aging and skin-repairing properties. For instance, one bacterium collected near Madagascar was fermented to produce a Bacillus Ferment that has been shown to improve skin texture, increase cellular energy, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

Research Studies on Ferments

There is a paicity of data on ferments. Most studies are computer generated analysis of the possible mechanisms of action that th eferments might have based on their components and strucure. In most cases, studies of final formulations on human skin have not been done. This is some of what we k now.

Several studies have looked at the effects of Bacillus Lysate on the skin. (3) One study showed that it can upregulate the sirtuin-3 gene, enhancing ATP production and reducing oxidative stress by 4%. Another in vivo study found a 13% reduction in wrinkle depth just 30 minutes after application, highlighting the potential for immediate visible improvements. However, it’s essential to note that while these early results are promising, more extensive clinical trials are needed to fully validate the efficacy of fermented ingredients.

Ferments offer intriguing potential in the world of skincare, but much remains to be learned about their long-term efficacy and safety. With ongoing research and development, we may soon better understand how these biologically active compounds interact with the skin to provide the anti-aging and healing benefits they promise. In the meantime, consumers should approach fermented ingredients with both interest and caution, always keeping their individual skin type and sensitivities in mind.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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