Prostaglandin Analogues for Lashes: Are They Safe?

Eyelash serums to grow eyelashes have become popular in recent years as a way to promote natural lash growth and volume. Many of these products, including Latisse, the only prescription lash treatment, contain a type of active ingredient called prostaglandin analogues. These ingredients were first used as a treatment for eye issues like glaucoma, which is how it was discovered that they also promote lash growth. Recently, there has been some discussion surrounding their potential side effects. Here, I explain the science behind how prostaglandins work, their safety, and which brands do and do not contain them.

Prostaglandin analogues promote natural eyelash growth and strength.

They can cause eye irritation and, in rare cases, change the color of your eyes.

There are some non-prostaglandin lash conditioners that use vitamins, peptides, and botanical ingredients instead.

These eyelash growers can cause a hollow eye look

How Do Prostaglandin Analogues Improve Lashes?

Prostaglandin analogues work by extending the growth phase (anagen phase) of the hair cycle. This results in longer, thicker, and darker lashes. Here’s a closer look at how they work:

Increasing blood flow to the area. This brings more nutrients but can cause redness.

Prolonging the anagen phase. The growth phase of eyelashes is naturally short. Prostaglandin analogues extend this growing phase, allowing lashes to grow longer than they typically would.

Increasing follicle size. These compounds can also increase the size of hair follicles, leading to thicker lashes.

Enhanced pigmentation. Prostaglandins can stimulate melanin production, making lashes appear darker. But this can also cause pigmentation around the eyes or change eye color.

Safety of Lash Growing Serums

Prostaglandin analogues have garnered some negative attention recently, as they can come with some side effects. The most known side effect of changing the color of your irises is rare unless the drops are used inside your eyes. It is more common to see darkening of the eyelid, redness around the eyes and loss of orbital fat resulting in sunken, hollow sunken eyes. Most people experience little to no side effects or only mild skin or eye irritation when using properly formulated lash serums.

The most notable side effects of prostaglandins include:

Eye irritation. Redness, itching, and discomfort commonly occur. You can reduce application to less frequently to lower this risk.

Eyelid skin darkening. Some people may notice increased pigmentation of the eyelid skin.

Eye color change: Rarely, prostaglandin analogues can cause permanent changes in iris color, particularly in individuals with light eyes.

Fat atrophy: In some cases, these compounds can lead to fat loss around the eye area, potentially causing a sunken appearance.

Eyelash abnormalities: Irregular lash growth, such as misdirected lashes, can also occur.

Styes: Some people who use lash serums report an increase in the development of styes.

Sunken Hollow Eyes Due to Orbital Fat Loss

Prostaglandin analogs, commonly used in lash serums for promoting eyelash growth, can lead to orbital fat loss, resulting in “hollow eyes” or “sunken eyes.” This condition, known as prostaglandin-associated periorbitopathy (PAP), occurs because these compounds can inhibit fat production and increase fat breakdown around the eyes. This loss of fat causes the eyes to appear more recessed and hollow, resulting in a sunken “tired eyes” appearance.

Which Lash Serums Contain Prostaglandin Analogues?

The majority of lash serums currently on the market contain prostaglandin analogues due to their proven effectiveness. Some of the most well-known include:

Latisse is the only prescription lash treatment FDA-approved for eyelash growth. It contains bimatoprost.

RevitaLash Advanced uses a blend of prostaglandin analogues to enhance lash length and thickness.

GrandeLASH-MD contains isopropyl cloprostenate, known for promoting lash growth.

If you aren’t concerned about prostaglandin analogues, here are some popular lash serum choices:

Which Lash Serums Do Not Contain Prostaglandins?

Some lash conditioners do not use prostaglandins to encourage lash growth. Instead, ingredients like biotin, keratin, vitamins, and botanicals can help to nourish eyelashes to make them appear healthier and fuller. A few leading brands that make a non-prostaglandin lash serum include:

Jane Iredale PureLash Lash Extender & Conditioner. This lash serum contains vitamin B5, algae extract, and stearic acid to strength, lengthen, and thicken lashes without the use of prostaglandins.

GrandeMASCARA Waterproof Conditioning Peptide Mascara uses a peptide called myristoyl pentapeptide-17 and vitamin E to condition and strengthen lashes and does not contain prostaglandin analogues.

Vichy LiftActiv Serum 10 for Eyes & Lashes helps lashes by using key ingredients such as rhamnose, glycerin, and hyaluronic acid to strengthen and condition them. This serum also targets the delicate skin around the eyes, providing anti-aging benefits while promoting healthier, more resilient lashes.

What Are Prostaglandin Analogues?

Prostaglandins are lipid compounds derived from fatty acids that perform hormone-like functions in the body. They play roles in various physiological processes, including inflammation, blood flow, and the induction of labor preceding childbirth. Prostaglandin analogues are synthetic versions of these compounds, designed to mimic their effects.

These compounds were initially developed and used in ophthalmology, particularly for the treatment of glaucoma. Patients using these medications for eye conditions began to notice a surprising side effect: longer, thicker, and darker eyelashes. This unexpected benefit spurred the development of cosmetic products containing prostaglandin analogues specifically for lash enhancement.

Examples of Prostaglandin Analogues

Prostaglandin analogues are used as prescription medications to treat glaucoma. Only Bimatoprost (Latisse) has proven efficacy and safety to grow lashes and is FDA approved for this purpose. However, other glaucoma medications also grow lashes but their safety and efficacy has not been formally studied. There are also botanical ingredients in cosmetic lash growers that also work like prostaglandin to grow lashes.

Prescription Prostaglandin Analogues

Several prostaglandin analogues are commonly found in lash serums:

Bimatoprost. Initially used to treat glaucoma, this analogue is now a key ingredient in Latisse, a popular lash growth serum. This is FDA approved and available only by prescription.

Isopropyl cloprostenate. Found in many over-the-counter lash serums, this ingredient is known for its lash-lengthening properties.

Latanoprost (Xalatan). Another prescription glaucoma drug that increases eyelash growth. It is not FDA approved for lash growth.

Tafluprost (Zioptan) is another glaucoma medication repurposed for cosmetic use in lash enhancers. It is available by prescription and is not FDA approved for lash growth.

Travoprost (Travatan and Travatan Z ) are prescription glaucoma medications that are not FDA approved to grow lashes.

Cosmetic Prostaglandin Analogues

There are many lash serums to grow lashes that you can get without a prescription. This does not mean they are safer. In fact, they are less studied than Latisse.

Synthetic Prostaglandin Analogues in Cosmetics

These peptides and botanicals are found in cosmetic lash growing serums. Because they are cosmetics and not drugs, trials looking at their safety and efficacy are sparse or nonexistent. However, there are many bestselling lash growing serums that use these ingredients.

Dechloro Dihydroxy Difluoro Ethylcloprostenolamide

Isopropyl Cloprostenate

Methylamido Dihydro Noralfaprostal

Norbimatoprost (very similar to bimatoprost)

Prostaglandin I2 (PGI2) Analogues

Prostaglandin F2α Analogues

Botanical Prostaglandin Analogues in Cosmetics

Caryodendron Orinocense Seed Oil: Derived from the cacay tree, it may have properties similar to prostaglandins.

Saw Palmetto Extract (Serenoa Repens): Known for its role in hair growth, some believe it might have prostaglandin-like effects.

Eclipta Prostrata Extract: Traditionally used in Ayurvedic medicine, this extract might have effects on hair growth that are similar to those of prostaglandins.

Ingredients That Grow Lashes That Are Not Prostaglandin Analogues

These peptides grow lashes but are not prostaglandin analogues so they do not have the same side effects as the prostaglandin analogues do.

Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Research Trials on Protaglandin Analogues

Many research trials have looked at the drug bimatoprost for eyelash growth. I was involved in one that showed that Latisse helped grow eyelashes in chemotherapy patients. (3)

These are the benefits of what bimatoprost does to lashes in clinical research trials:

Increase in anagen follicles

Fewer telogen follicles

Lengthening of individual eyelashes

Darker eyelash pigmentation

Thicker eyelashes

Vellus hair changes into medullated hair (thicker and darker)

Bottom Line

Prostaglandin analogues in lash serums can offer dramatic improvements in lash length, thickness, and darkness and are generally well tolerated by most people. However, side effects such as eye irritation, skin darkening, and, in rare cases, changes in eye color or fat loss around the eyes can occur. For personalized skin care advice based on your unique skin type, first take the skin type quiz, then consult with a dermatologist who can help you determine the best approach for achieving beautiful, healthy lashes.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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