Cutaneous lysate and Processed Skin Cell Proteins in Neocutis Skin Care

Processed Skin Cell Proteins (PSPs), also known as cutaneous lysate, changed the anti-aging skincare industry, offering science-based skin rejuvenation benefits. As the cornerstone of the luxury growth factor skincare brand Neocutis, PSPs harness the regenerative power of human fibroblasts to restore collagen, enhance skin hydration, and promote a youthful complexion. Neocutis products, enriched with these potent bioactive molecules derived from fibroblast lysates, deliver antiaging skin benefits. Along with SkinMedica TNS, the Neocutis PSP containing growth factor products have added a new category of products to the antiaging skincare armamentarium.

Are these PSP containing products good for your skin? Take our dermatologist-developed skin type quiz to find out which of the 16 skin types you are and if you should use products with cutaneous lysate in them.

Neocutis’ anti-aging products use cutaneous lysate derived from cultured human fibroblasts

Cutaneous lysate is rich in essential growth factors and cytokines.

PSPs are gentle on the skin and good for sensitive skin types

Know your Baumann Skin Type before you buy any anti-aging products

Growth Factors from Cutaneous Lysate

This blog focuses on the cutaneous lysate found in Neocutis products. Technically a cutaneous lysate can be any substance that is extracted from cells. But this appears on the label of Neocutis antiaging serums and this company extracts the proteins from fibroblasts so this blog is based on that technology.

What are PSPs ?

Processed Skin Cell Proteins (PSPs), known as cutaneous lysate, are a unique blend of growth factors and cytokines derived from cultured human fibroblasts. The original cell cultures were made by taking a human skin biopsy and cultivating it in a laboratory environment. This resulted in the proliferation of fibroblasts, which are then processed to extract the valuable proteins they produce. These proteins are crucial for skin regeneration and repair, mimicking the natural biological processes involved in wound healing and skin rejuvenation.

There is a rumor that the skin biopsy used for cultivating these fibroblasts came from the foreskin of the CEO’s child, but this claim remains unverified. Regardless of the biopsy’s origin, the scientific process ensures the fibroblasts proliferate and produce the essential proteins that form the basis of PSPs.

On skin care product labels, these fibroblast derived growth factors are called “cutaneous lysate.”

Growth Factors are in Neocutis Products

Based on the detailed examination of the patent US9278122B2, the growth factors and cytokines present in the cutaneous lysate (PSPs) used in Neocutis products are as follows:

Transforming Growth Factor-beta (TGF-β)

Fibroblast Growth Factor (FGF)

Platelet-Derived Growth Factor (PDGF)

Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor (VEGF)

Interleukin-6 (IL-6)

Interleukin-8 (IL-8)

Interleukin-10 (IL-10)

Keratinocyte Growth Factor-1 and -2 (KGF-1, KGF-2)

Benefits

The primary benefit of PSPs lies in their ability to harness the natural regenerative properties of growth factors and cytokines. These bioactive molecules play a pivotal role in skin health by promoting collagen synthesis, enhancing the production of hyaluronic acid, and stimulating the formation of glycosaminoglycans. Here’s a deeper look into these benefits:

Collagen Restoration : Collagen is a critical protein that maintains the skin’s structural integrity and firmness. PSPs help restore collagen levels in the skin, which naturally deplete with age, leading to firmer and more youthful-looking skin.

Hyaluronic Acid Production : Hyaluronic acid is essential for skin hydration. It attracts and retains moisture, providing a plump and hydrated appearance. PSPs stimulate the skin to produce more hyaluronic acid, combating dryness and promoting a smoother texture.

Glycosaminoglycan Formation : These molecules, including hyaluronic acid, are vital for maintaining skin elasticity and hydration. PSPs encourage their production, contributing to overall skin health and resilience.

The combination of these effects leads to the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, improvement in skin texture, and an overall rejuvenated appearance.

Side Effects and Safety

PSPs are generally considered safe with no known significant side effects. Here are some key points regarding their safety:

No Known Side Effects : Clinical studies and user reports have not indicated any major side effects associated with PSPs. Users typically tolerate these products well, experiencing minimal to no irritation.

Concerns About Growth Factors : There have been concerns regarding the potential for growth factors to stimulate the growth of skin cancers. However, no cases of skin cancer have been reported in association with PSP use over more than eight years on the market. The data suggests that PSPs are safe for long-term use.

The Environmental Working Group (EWG) has evaluated ‘cutaneous lysate” and provided favorable safety scores, indicating a low risk for adverse effects. The EWG score for products containing PSPs is generally a 1. However, there are many types of cutaneous lysate so it is not technically correct to give the same safety rated to all types.

Research Studies on Neocutis’ Cutaneous Lysate

Several research studies have explored the efficacy of PSPs in skin rejuvenation. Here are some notable studies and their findings:

Initial Case Report: A case report by Baumann et al. (2007) described the effects of Bio-restorative Skin Cream, a PSP product, on two participants with severe phototoxicity following 5-aminolevulinic acid (5-ALA) photodynamic therapy. The application of the cream twice daily for 3 to 7 days helped restore the skin to its normal condition, indicating PSPs’ potential in healing and repair (Journal of Drugs in Dermatology).

Randomized, Double-Blind, Split-Face Study: A study by Gold et al. (2007) involved 20 women with facial wrinkling in the lateral canthal area. Participants applied Bio-restorative Skin Cream or a placebo cream twice daily for two months. The results showed significant improvement in skin roughness parameters with the PSP cream compared to the placebo. However, the clinical assessment of wrinkles did not show a significant difference between the two sides. Another publication based on this study found that periorbital and perioral wrinkles improved significantly at day 30 and day 60 (Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy).

Prospective Study on Fine Wrinkles: In a single-center prospective study, Fitzpatrick et al. (2009) evaluated the effects of Bio-restorative Skin Cream on 12 women over six months. Results indicated a 33% reduction in periorbital wrinkles and a 25% reduction in perioral wrinkles. Participants also reported improvements in facial lines, skin texture, and hydration (Journal of Drugs in Dermatology).

Lumiere® Bio-restorative Eye Cream Study: A multicenter, open-label prospective study by Fitzpatrick et al. (2009) on 40 women examined the effects of Lumiere® Bio-restorative Eye Cream. After six weeks of twice-daily application, significant improvements were observed in skin texture, sagging, dark circles, and periorbital wrinkles. Participants also reported enhanced skin quality and appearance (Journal of Drugs in Dermatology).

These studies collectively support the efficacy of PSPs in improving various signs of skin aging, including fine lines, wrinkles, texture, and hydration.

Conclusion

Processed Skin Cell Proteins (PSPs) in Neocutis products represent a cutting-edge approach to skin rejuvenation. Derived from cultured human fibroblasts, PSPs harness the power of growth factors and cytokines to restore collagen, promote hyaluronic acid production, and enhance skin health. With a strong safety profile and supported by numerous research studies, PSPs offer a promising solution for those seeking to combat the signs of aging and achieve healthier, more youthful skin.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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