The Science of Carnosine in Skin Care Products
Carnosine is a naturally occurring peptide that’s gaining popularity in skincare due to its antioxidant and pigment-correcting properties. This peptide, made of two amino acids (β-alanine and histidine), is found in high concentrations in animal tissues. Although it’s praised for its potential anti-aging and skin-brightening effects, it’s important to understand how it works and how it compares to other skincare peptides. In this guide, we’ll explore what carnosine is, its benefits, and how it compares to other peptides. We’ll also identify which Baumann Skin Types could benefit from using carnosine products.
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What is Carnosine?
Carnosine (β-alanyl-L-histidine) is a dipeptide naturally found in animal tissues, particularly in muscles and the brain. It’s created in the body using an enzyme called carnosine synthase, which combines the amino acids β-alanine and histidine. Unlike many peptides that break down quickly, carnosine resists this degradation and stays longer in the body, making it valuable for skincare and health products.
Where does Carnosine come from?
Animal Sources – Carnosine is mainly found in animal tissues like chicken, pork, and beef, especially in muscles and the brain. It’s also present in smaller amounts in fish. Anserine, a related peptide, is more common in poultry and has similar properties.
Produced in Humans – In humans, this dipeptide is made in muscles, the brain, and other tissues by an enzyme called carnosine synthase, which combines β-alanine and L-histidine.
Lab-Made Carnosine – While carnosine is usually extracted from animal tissues, it can also be synthesized in the lab. One recent study showed that scientists could produce the dipeptide efficiently using whole-cell biocatalysts. (4)
Carnosine Benefits
Antioxidant Properties – This dipeptide is a strong antioxidant that fights free radicals, which can cause aging and damage to the skin. It can also bind to metal ions, making it even more effective at protecting against oxidative stress.
Pigment-Correcting Properties – Recent research shows that carnosine, along with anserine, can reduce melanin production by blocking tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin formation. This helps reduce hyperpigmentation and evens out skin tone.
Anti-Glycation Effects – Glycation happens when sugars attach to proteins, creating advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) that speed up aging. This dipeptide prevents this process, protecting collagen and elastin from damage.
Anti-Inflammatory Properties – By reducing oxidative stress, this ingredient also helps reduce redness and irritation, making it beneficial for sensitive skin types.
Here are some of the best skincare products with carnosine:
Carnosine Side Effects
Carnosine is generally safe for both topical and oral use. However, some people might experience mild irritation or skin allergy when using skincare products with this ingredient. It’s a good idea to do a patch test before applying it to your entire face. This ingredient is not comedogenic, meaning it is safe for acne prone skin. Additionally, organizations such as the Environmental Working Group (EWG) grade this dipeptide as safe to use in skin care.
Is carnosine vegan?
Carnosine is not vegan because it’s sourced from animal tissues. Currently, there are no vegetarian or vegan sources of this ingredient. Vegans can look for synthetic peptides that have similar antioxidant and anti-glycation effects.
How do carnosine supplements work?
When taken orally, carnosine supplements are absorbed in the small intestine and then spread throughout the body. This increases present levels in muscles and the brain, providing antioxidant and anti-glycation benefits.
In the Human Body
All vertebrates, including humans, naturally produce carnosine. It’s found in the highest concentrations in muscles and the brain. However, levels of this dipeptide decrease as we age, which might contribute to increased oxidative stress and aging.
Carnosine vs other Peptides
Defensins – Defensins are peptides that protect the skin from infections. While carnosine focuses on fighting oxidative stress and glycation, defensins primarily target bacteria and other microbes.
Signal Peptides – Signal peptides play a key role in cellular repair and regeneration. Unlike carnosine, which mainly acts as an antioxidant, signal peptides help stimulate collagen production and wound healing.
Matrikines – Matrikines are small protein fragments that stimulate collagen and elastin production. While carnosine also has anti-aging effects, it works differently by preventing oxidative stress and glycation.
TriHex Peptides – TriHex peptides help with collagen production and skin repair. They work well with antioxidants like carnosine but focus specifically on repairing the skin’s support structure.
Carnosine for anti-aging
Carnosine helps with anti-aging by fighting oxidative stress and glycation. By neutralizing free radicals and preventing AGEs from forming, this dipeptide helps protect collagen and elastin, keeping the skin firm and elastic. It is important to note that while peptides are very promising and interesting anti-aging ingredients, I recommend using them alongside other ingredients such as retinoids, exfoliators, SPF products, etc.
Carnosine for hyperpigmentation
This dipeptide can reduce hyperpigmentation by interfering with melanogenesis. By preventing melanin from forming, this ingredient helps fade dark spots and even out the skin tone. The exact mechanism of how carnosine accomplishes this is still being researched.
Which Baumann Skin Types can use Carnosine?
Several Baumann Skin Types can benefit from using carnosine, namely, pigmented and wrinkled skin types such as:
Oily Resistant Pigmented Wrinkled (ORPW): this ingredient helps reduce both wrinkles and dark spots.
Dry Sensitive Pigmented Wrinkled (DSPW): Its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties soothe sensitive skin while reducing pigmentation and wrinkles.
To find out your specific Baumann Skin Type and see if this fascinating dipeptide is right for you, take the Skin Type Quiz by clicking the button below!
Conclusion
Carnosine is a promising peptide with antioxidant and pigment-correcting properties. While it’s not the most powerful anti-aging ingredient on its own, it works well with other peptides and antioxidants to provide comprehensive skincare benefits. As more research uncovers the potential of peptides, this ingredient will likely remain an important part of the skincare conversation.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
