Adapalene vs Retinol: A Dermatologist's Guide

Adapalene vs Retinol: A Dermatologist’s Guide

As a dermatologist, I often discuss retinoids with my patients and the differences in the various treatment options available for skin conditions such as acne, signs of aging, and hyperpigmentation. Among the myriad of choices, retinoids, particularly adapalene and retinol, frequently come up in our conversations. It can be hard to choose which one to use as they are both available without a prescription. Both are derivatives of Vitamin A and work by promoting cell turnover and collagen production, but they differ a little in their mechanism of action, strength, and availability. In this guide, I will help you understand the differences between adapalene and retinol and how to choose which one to use in your skin care regimen.

If you want customized advice on which products are best for you r skin type, take the skin type quiz that I use in my dermatology practice.

Adapalene and Retinol: How They Work

Adapalene and retinol, while both retinoids, operate slightly differently at the cellular level. Adapalene is a synthetic retinoid specifically formulated to treat acne. It comes in many brand names such as Differin and Cabtreo (a combination acne prodcut that also has benzoyl peroxide and clindamycin). It is found in over the counter formulations such as Proactive and La Roche Posay Effaclar.

Adapalene binds to specific retinoic acid receptors (RAR) in the skin, normalizing the process of keratinization and desquamation. This action prevents the formation of acne lesions and promotes quicker healing of existing pimples. Adapalene selectively binds to RAR beta (β) and gamma (γ) but does not interact with RAR alpha (α). This selectivity of adapalene contributes to its unique efficacy and side effect profile in treating acne

Retinol , on the other hand, is a natural form of vitamin A that is converted into retinoic acid in the skin. Retinoic acid (tretinoin) binds to all three subtypes of retinoic acid receptors (RARs): RAR alpha (α), beta (β), and gamma (γ). Because retinol must undergo conversion to retinoic acid, retinol is generally considered less potent than adapalene. There are too many brands of retinol to list here, but some can be seen below.

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Acne

Adapalene stands out in the treatment of acne due to its potent anti-inflammatory properties and its ability to prevent the formation of microcomedones, the precursor to all acne lesions. Clinical studies have shown adapalene to be as effective as tretinoin, another prescription-strength retinoid, in treating acne, but with a lower incidence of irritation and side effects. Adapalene is FDA approved to treat acne but retinol is not.

Skin Aging

While adapalene is primarily used for acne, it has also shown promise in addressing signs of skin aging. However, retinol is more commonly recommended for this purpose. Its ability to penetrate deeper into the skin allows it to effectively stimulate collagen production, resulting in reduced appearance of fine lines and improved skin texture. Tretinoin has been approved by the FDA to treat skin aging but adapalene and retinol have not.

Hyperpigmentation

Both adapalene and retinol can be effective in treating melasma and dark spots on the skin by accelerating cell turnover and removing pigmented cells. However, retinol, with its broader mechanism of action, may be more beneficial for those specifically looking to even out skin tone and fade dark spots.

These work best when combined with tyrosinase inhibitors.

Scars

There are not any significant studies that compare how well retinol and adapalene work on scars. Although there are studies of tretinoin on scars that suggest that retinol may have some efficacy (9), studies on retinol have not been done. There have been studies to show that adapalene can help improve scars (7,8), so if you have scars that you want to treat, I suggest using adapalene over retinol. However, tazarotene is probably the most effective retinoid for scars.

Comparing Adapalene and Retinol

There is not a huge difference in adapalene and retinol. Adapalene is more effective in acne and is FDA approved for this while retinol is not approved as an acne medication. Adapalene ‘s selective action on RAR β and γ has been shown to be particularly effective in the treatment of acne. These receptors influence processes such as keratinocyte differentiation and proliferation, leading to reduced formation of comedones and an anti-inflammatory effect that is beneficial in acne management.

Retinol is used as an acne treatment because in the skin it converts to retinoic acid (which is the same as tretinoin) and has broad RAR activation. However, its conversion process is less efficient, and its effects on acne are generally considered milder compared to adapalene and tretinoin.

For acne treatment, adapalene is more effective than retinol due to its selective binding to RAR β and γ, which directly targets acne pathogenesis mechanisms with a favorable profile in terms of stability and irritation.

Adapalene is available with and without a prescription. Here are examples of adapalene that you can get without a prescription.

Side Effects

Adapalene and retinol exhibit similar profiles when it comes to side effects. When used correctly, both are generally well-tolerated and associated with fewer side effects compared to other retinoids. They both may cause skin irritation, dryness, skin stinging, and redness, but these effects are usually mild and decrease with continued use.

With both, users often report increased sensitivity, peeling, redness, and dryness during the initial weeks of treatment.

With both you need to make sure you are using them with the correct cleansers and moisturizers for your Baumann Skin Type.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.

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