Adapalene vs Retinol: A Dermatologist’s Guide
As a dermatologist, I often discuss retinoids with my patients and the differences in the various treatment options available for skin conditions such as acne, signs of aging, and hyperpigmentation. Among the myriad of choices, retinoids, particularly adapalene and retinol, frequently come up in our conversations. It can be hard to choose which one to use as they are both available without a prescription. Both are derivatives of Vitamin A and work by promoting cell turnover and collagen production, but they differ a little in their mechanism of action, strength, and availability. In this guide, I will help you understand the differences between adapalene and retinol and how to choose which one to use in your skin care regimen.
If you want customized advice on which products are best for you r skin type, take the skin type quiz that I use in my dermatology practice.
Adapalene and Retinol: How They Work
Adapalene and retinol, while both retinoids, operate slightly differently at the cellular level. Adapalene is a synthetic retinoid specifically formulated to treat acne. It comes in many brand names such as Differin and Cabtreo (a combination acne prodcut that also has benzoyl peroxide and clindamycin). It is found in over the counter formulations such as Proactive and La Roche Posay Effaclar.
Adapalene binds to specific retinoic acid receptors (RAR) in the skin, normalizing the process of keratinization and desquamation. This action prevents the formation of acne lesions and promotes quicker healing of existing pimples. Adapalene selectively binds to RAR beta (β) and gamma (γ) but does not interact with RAR alpha (α). This selectivity of adapalene contributes to its unique efficacy and side effect profile in treating acne
Retinol , on the other hand, is a natural form of vitamin A that is converted into retinoic acid in the skin. Retinoic acid (tretinoin) binds to all three subtypes of retinoic acid receptors (RARs): RAR alpha (α), beta (β), and gamma (γ). Because retinol must undergo conversion to retinoic acid, retinol is generally considered less potent than adapalene. There are too many brands of retinol to list here, but some can be seen below.
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Acne
Adapalene stands out in the treatment of acne due to its potent anti-inflammatory properties and its ability to prevent the formation of microcomedones, the precursor to all acne lesions. Clinical studies have shown adapalene to be as effective as tretinoin, another prescription-strength retinoid, in treating acne, but with a lower incidence of irritation and side effects. Adapalene is FDA approved to treat acne but retinol is not.
Skin Aging
While adapalene is primarily used for acne, it has also shown promise in addressing signs of skin aging. However, retinol is more commonly recommended for this purpose. Its ability to penetrate deeper into the skin allows it to effectively stimulate collagen production, resulting in reduced appearance of fine lines and improved skin texture. Tretinoin has been approved by the FDA to treat skin aging but adapalene and retinol have not.
Hyperpigmentation
Both adapalene and retinol can be effective in treating melasma and dark spots on the skin by accelerating cell turnover and removing pigmented cells. However, retinol, with its broader mechanism of action, may be more beneficial for those specifically looking to even out skin tone and fade dark spots.
These work best when combined with tyrosinase inhibitors.
Scars
There are not any significant studies that compare how well retinol and adapalene work on scars. Although there are studies of tretinoin on scars that suggest that retinol may have some efficacy (9), studies on retinol have not been done. There have been studies to show that adapalene can help improve scars (7,8), so if you have scars that you want to treat, I suggest using adapalene over retinol. However, tazarotene is probably the most effective retinoid for scars.
Comparing Adapalene and Retinol
There is not a huge difference in adapalene and retinol. Adapalene is more effective in acne and is FDA approved for this while retinol is not approved as an acne medication. Adapalene ‘s selective action on RAR β and γ has been shown to be particularly effective in the treatment of acne. These receptors influence processes such as keratinocyte differentiation and proliferation, leading to reduced formation of comedones and an anti-inflammatory effect that is beneficial in acne management.
Retinol is used as an acne treatment because in the skin it converts to retinoic acid (which is the same as tretinoin) and has broad RAR activation. However, its conversion process is less efficient, and its effects on acne are generally considered milder compared to adapalene and tretinoin.
For acne treatment, adapalene is more effective than retinol due to its selective binding to RAR β and γ, which directly targets acne pathogenesis mechanisms with a favorable profile in terms of stability and irritation.
Adapalene is available with and without a prescription. Here are examples of adapalene that you can get without a prescription.
Side Effects
Adapalene and retinol exhibit similar profiles when it comes to side effects. When used correctly, both are generally well-tolerated and associated with fewer side effects compared to other retinoids. They both may cause skin irritation, dryness, skin stinging, and redness, but these effects are usually mild and decrease with continued use.
With both, users often report increased sensitivity, peeling, redness, and dryness during the initial weeks of treatment.
With both you need to make sure you are using them with the correct cleansers and moisturizers for your Baumann Skin Type.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
