The Science of Zinc Oxide in Skin Care

Zinc Oxide in Skin Care

Zinc oxide is one of the most effective sun protection ingredients in skin care products today. This naturally-occurring mineral compound offers a range of benefits for maintaining healthy, youthful skin. In this in-depth blog post, we’ll explore everything you need to know about zinc oxide in skin care and how to incorporate it into your routine. To get the perfect custom skin care routine for you, take the Baumann Skin Type quiz for free today!

What is Zinc Oxide?

Zinc oxide is composed of zinc and oxygen atoms bonded together. It is a fine, white powder in its natural state. While zinc itself is an essential trace element for the human body, zinc oxide has unique properties when used in skin care formulations.

Most topically applied zinc oxide sits on the outermost layer of skin rather than absorbing into the deeper layers. This is the key to understanding its mechanisms and benefits.

In skin care, zinc oxide is primarily used as a broad spectrum physical sunscreen ingredient. It protects against both UVA and UVB radiation by reflecting and scattering the light waves before they can cause damage to skin cells.

Before we get started, here are a few of my favorite physical sunscreens that I’d like to highlight:

The science of zinc oxide in skin care

The properties of zinc oxide are well studied, as it is an important mineral in hundreds normal bodily functions. New research on the possible benefits or shortcomings of zinc oxide in topical products is happening all the time.

We do know that zinc oxide provides additional skin benefits beyond sun protection, which we’ll explore more below.

Zinc oxide for sun protection

Zinc oxide is the single most common ingredient in mineral sunscreens. Thanks to its mineral composition and poor ability to absorb into skin, zinc oxide effectively blocks UVB rays (wavelengths 290-320 nm) and shortwave UVA rays (320-340 nm). This prevents sunburn, cell mutations, early skin aging, and skin cancer.

Zinc oxide is superior at blocking long wave UVA1 rays (340-400nm) compared to the mineral titanium dioxide. It offers very broad spectrum protection.

Studies have found that in addition to reflecting radiation, it also absorbs a large amount of it.

Zinc oxide for melasma

By providing UV protection, zinc oxide helps prevent melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, especially in those prone to discoloration. The UV rays that trigger excess melanin production are blocked before reaching skin cells. Additionally, it is well known that zinc supplements taken orally can treat existing melasma. Good sun protection practices are key to any hyperpigmentation regimen.

Zinc oxide and blue light

Zinc Oxide and Blue Light

Emerging research shows that zinc oxide may defend skin against visible blue light from digital devices and fluorescent lighting that can contribute to premature aging over time. More studies are still needed, but the mineral shows promise for neutralizing blue light.

Antimicrobial effects of zinc oxide

While most formulations of zinc oxide do not penetrate skin but can stay on the surface to offer antimicrobial benefits as nanoparticle zinc oxide has shown antibacterial properties in studies. This means that in most cases, zinc oxide will not directly treat acne, and even when in its nano particle form it is not potent enough to prevent acne on its own.

Is zinc oxide safe?

Zinc oxide is considered safe in skin care. Organizations like the EWG rate it as a 1-3 which is safe in most formulations. The CIR has also described it as safe. (10) The reason it is not safe in all formulations is because zinc oxide formulated as nano particles can somewhat be absorbed into the skin. Zinc is unlike some chemical sunscreen filters, which can potentially cause irritation, allergies, or penetration into the bloodstream in some individuals. As a physical blocker that sits on skin’s surface, zinc oxide is less likely to cause such reactions.

Make sure to wash off any thick sunscreens at the end of the day so they don’t clog your pores. It is not the zinc oxide itself that is comedogenic, but rather some ingredients it can be sometimes used alongside.

How zinc oxide products are made

In order to provide the above benefits, zinc oxide must be properly formulated in skin care products. Factors like how the zinc oxide is shaped, coated, and what other ingredients it is mixed together with change how it works. Here’s some of the science behind that claim:

Zinc oxide particle sizes

Zinc oxide is produced in different particle sizes depending on its purpose, which affects its properties and performance:

Nanoparticle zinc oxide contains the smallest particles less than 0.2 μm in size. This allows them to appear transparent on the skin without leaving a white color behind. However, there are concerns that nanoparticles may potentially absorb into the skin.

Micronized zinc oxide particles are slightly larger between 0.2-0.3 μm. This size minimizes light scattering for transparency, while remaining too large to penetrate deeply into the skin. Micronized zinc oxide offers the best of both worlds.

Larger, non-micronized zinc oxide particles are around 0.5-1 μm in size. These tend to leave a thicker white residue on the skin, but are sometimes used in natural or mineral makeup products.

Bulk zinc oxide particles are greater than 1 μm and appear visibly white on the skin. While they provide effective UV protection, the white residue is considered cosmetically unacceptable by most consumers.

The smallest nanoparticles provide the most elegant finish, but micronized zinc oxide balances effectiveness with safety by being too large to be absorbed into the skin. The best size for you depends on your skin concerns. At the end of the day, the best sunscreen for you is one you’ll use consistently.

Zinc oxide coating

Different types of coatings are applied to zinc oxide particles to enhance certain properties:

Silicone, dimethicone, and polymer coatings help make zinc oxide smoother, more cosmetically elegant, and water resistant while boosting UV protection. They also minimize photoreactivity.

Lecithin, glycerin, and alumina provide hydration benefits while decreasing agglomeration of particles.

It is most common for larger particle sized zinc oxide to be coated than smaller particles.

Mixing zinc oxide with other ingredients

Mixing zinc oxide with other mineral sunscreen ingredients

While zinc oxide is great at absorbing and reflecting a decent range of radiation, it is most effective when mixed with other ingredients like some chemical sunscreen components or other minerals like titanium oxide or iron oxide.

To make sure all the ingredients in your sunscreen are working together to improve your skin health, take this quiz (Coming Soon!) to find the perfect sunscreen for you!

One exciting ingredient to use alongside zinc oxide is diamonds! Products like Pavise Dynamic Age Defense use the highly reflective surfaces of diamond dust to drastically increase to radiation protection of their sunscreen. I highly recommend this product. For our full collection of sunscreens and SPF products, click here!

Pavise uses diamond core technology which is zinc bound to diamonds to provide sun protection along with antioxidants in a sheer, vegan, marine safe sunscreen.

Zinc oxide vs Titanium oxide

Like zinc oxide, titanium dioxide sits atop the skin as a physical UV filter. They do, however, have some differences. Here’s how the two mineral sunscreen ingredients stack up:

Zinc oxide provides slightly better UVA protection, titanium dioxide excels at UVB defense

Titanium dioxide is more photoreactive, zinc oxide is more stable

Titanium dioxide has a higher skin penetration risk

Zinc oxide is safer and causes less irritation overall

Beyond UV rays, zinc oxide also protects against blue light and discoloration

For the most well-rounded benefits, a combination of both minerals is ideal. But zinc oxide’s versatility makes it stand out as an essential skin care ingredient.

What to know about zinc oxide

With science supporting its effectiveness and safety, zinc oxide is proving to be more than just a physical sunscreen.

Look for zinc oxide in sunscreens as well as moisturizers, serums, and masks to take advantage of its diverse benefits. Your skin will thank you!

As always, the best skin care regimen contains products aligned with your unique Baumann Skin Type. We can provide personalized recommendations with zinc oxide tailored for your needs. Take the quiz today to start the journey towards healthy skin!

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.

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