The Science of Capsaicin in Skin Care

Capsaicin is commonly known as a powerful plant compound found in chili peppers, but while capsaicin gives chili peppers their infamous fiery kick, it also has a secret soothing ability that makes it one of the most unique anti-inflammatory ingredients in skin care today.

It exerts powerful anti-inflammatory behavior, resulting in long term relief for conditions like eczema, psoriasis and others.

Intrigued? Keep reading to uncover the science behind capsaicin in skin care and learn why studies on this ingredient are more common now than ever before.

Take the Baumann Skin Type quiz for free today to see if this and other ingredients are right for your skin type!

What is Capsaicin

Capsaicin is the compound that makes spicy peppers spicy (10). It is found in varieties like habanero, scotch bonnet, jalapeños, and cayenne (10). Chemically, capsaicin is classified as a phenylpropanoid, an organic compound found in many plants.

Capsaicin is produced by peppers as a defense mechanism against threats like fungi, insects, and small mammals (10). The burning sensation that capsaicin causes is meant to deter these potential predators, but instead, we eat it and put it on our faces.

Where does Capsaicin come from?

As mentioned above, capsaicin is naturally found in chili peppers, with the highest concentrations occurring in hotter pepper varieties (10).

For skin care products, capsaicin is chemically synthesized in a lab to the exact chemical structure that occurs in peppers (10). This allows manufacturers to control the concentration used in topical creams, ointments, and serums.

Benefits of capsaicin

Capsaicin is gaining interest in the skin care world because of several beneficial properties:

Anti-inflammatory – Capsaicin has potent anti-inflammatory effects, which can help reduce redness and swelling associated with conditions like eczema, psoriasis, and others (1,4).

Pain relief – By binding to pain receptors, capsaicin initially activates neurons before causing them to become desensitized, effectively alleviating pain (1,3,4). It’s kind of like fighting fire with fire.

Psoriasis treatment – Research shows that topical application of capsaicin can reduce scaling, thickness, redness and itching associated with psoriasis lesions (4,5).

Cellulite reduction – Capsaicin may interfere with the way fat is processed in the body, showing evidence of treating cellulite in studies (8).

Antioxidant – Capsaicin demonstrates free radical scavenging ability in lab tests, suggesting it may have antioxidant properties in skin care formulations (7).

Capsaicin risks and side-effects

Capsaicin risks and side effects

While capsaicin shows promise for many skin therapies, it also comes with some potential side effects to be aware of:

Irritation – Capsaicin is highly irritating to skin, especially in higher concentrations. Burning, stinging, redness and dryness can occur (4,6).

Toxicity – Concerns about capsaicin’s toxicity are controversial. Some older studies link it to cancer while newer research suggests anti-cancer properties (2). Further study is needed on its interactions with cancer.

Breastfeeding – Capsaicin applied topically can enter breastmilk, possibly impacting infant health (4). Nursing mothers should exercise caution.

Neurotoxicity – High doses of capsaicin may have neurotoxic effects leading to nerve damage, although this is unlikely with topical use (4).

Is Capsaicin toxic?

The toxicity of capsaicin is still up for debate. Some older studies raise concerns about carcinogenic effects, while newer research suggests it may actually have anti-cancer properties (2). Most experts agree that topical use of capsaicin is likely safe, as the amount penetrating skin is very minimal (4). However those who are pregnant/nursing or have other health concerns should consult a doctor before using.

How does capsaicin treat inflammation?

How does Capsaicin treat inflammation?

Capsaicin can help reduce inflammation from a variety of causes. What makes capsaicin interesting is the unique mechanism by which it treats inflammation and pain.

First, capsaicin triggers sensory neurons in the skin. This causes a burning or stinging feeling. This stinging can be modified based on the concentration of capsaicin in a product.

Second, after regular use, capsaicin causes the sensory neurons to become less sensitive. This lessens the activity neurotransmitters. It stops the neurons from sending pain and itch signals related to inflammation.

Additionally, capsaicin blocks an inflammatory pathway called NF-kB. This pathway activates inflammatory cytokines – proteins that drive inflammation. With NF-kB blocked, there are lower levels of inflammatory cytokines.

In summary, capsaicin first provides temporary pain relief through basically desensitizing your skin. Later, it relieves long term inflammation as neurons become less sensitive and cytokine production is lowered. This unique 2-step process makes capsaicin helpful for chronic inflammatory skin problems like psoriasis.

Capsaicin for cellulite

Cellulite is characterized by dimpled, uneven areas of skin, typically on the thighs and buttocks. It results from fat cells and connective tissue deformities beneath the skin. Though harmless, many people seek ways to reduce the appearance of cellulite.

Early research indicates that capsaicin may help smooth the appearance of cellulite when applied topically. One study found that applying 0.3% capsaicin cream to the thighs daily for 6 weeks led to smoother skin texture and reduced visible cellulite compared to placebo cream (8).

How does capsaicin improve the appearance of cellulite? It’s believed to work in a couple ways:

Altering fat metabolism – Capsaicin appears to stop the accumulation of fats within adipocytes (fat cells) in cellulite-prone areas (8). This may reduce fat clumps that lead to a dimpled look.

Boosting blood flow – Increased blood flow can help reduce tissue inflammation that makes cellulite more visible. Capsaicin’s short-term irritation effect induces inflammation followed by increased localized blood flow (8).

While early results are promising, more research is still needed to fully understand capsaicin’s effects on cellulite.

As more research is being conducted on capsaicin regularly, this is currently the only product we offer with this ingredient:

Capsaicin for anti-aging

Some early research indicates that capsaicin has antioxidant properties that may help slow signs of aging on the skin, such as wrinkles and sagging skin (7). By eliminating free radicals on the skin, capsaicin can contribute to younger looking skin over time. More research is still needed in this area.

Capsaicin for hyperpigmentation

By interfering with melanin synthesis and maturation, capsaicin shows potential for improving hyperpigmentation issues, including melasma, freckles and sun spots(9). With regular application, you could expect to notice lighter, more even skin tone when using it alongside other skin lightening ingredients such as:

Azelaic acid

Cysteamine

Hexylresorcinol

Retinol

Salicylic acid

Capsaicin vs ricinoleic acid

Capsaicin vs Ricinoleic acid

I have heard comparisons between capsaicin and the active ingredient in castor oil, ricinoleic acid. Here is a brief comparison of these two ingredients.

Both capsaicin and ricinoleic acid have anti-inflammatory effects that can help reduce swelling and irritation in skin. However, they differ in their mechanisms of action and side effects:

Capsaicin provides temporary pain relief through initial triggering of sensory neurons, followed by longer term desensitization. This causes an initial burning or stinging sensation on the skin.

Ricinoleic acid does not cause any initial burning, but gradually reduces inflammation and pain over several days of repeated use. It does this through different pathways than capsaicin.

The fatty acid ricinoleic acid also has emulsifying properties that allow it to break down fats and oils. Capsaicin does not share this ability.

Ricinoleic acid appears to be less irritating to skin, while capsaicin is known for its irritating side effects like redness, dryness and flaking.

So in summary, both ingredients reduce inflammation, but ricinoleic acid’s more gradual, non-irritating effects may make it preferable for some individuals with sensitive skin. However, capsaicin may provide faster initial relief. For these reasons and others, castor oil is more popular than capsaicin in skin care for many of the same treatments. Here are some of my favorite products with ricinoleic acid-rich castor oil:

Conclusion

While research shows capsaicin has potential benefits for skin health, there are several factors that limit its widespread use in skincare products:

Irritation – Capsaicin often causes burning, stinging, redness and dryness, especially in higher concentrations. Many consumers find this too irritating.

Lack of research – Much of the research on capsaicin for skin is still in early stages or limited in scope. More clinical trials are needed to convince skincare companies to adopt it.

Effectiveness concerns – It’s unclear if the small amount of capsaicin able to penetrate skin provides enough anti-inflammatory or antioxidant benefit compared to other ingredients.

Availability – Since it must be chemically synthesized to be under control, capsaicin is more expensive than most plant extracts used in skincare. The supply chain is limited.

Safety fears – While topical use is likely safe, there are lingering concerns about capsaicin’s toxicity if absorbed into your bloodstream. This deters some skincare brands.

In summary, capsaicin shows promise but needs more research to confirm benefits. It may gain more popularity if formulations can optimize delivery while minimizing irritation.

To find out if capsaicin or ingredients like it are right for your skin type, take the Baumann Skin Type Quiz for free today!

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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