Crepidiastrum Denticulatum Extract (Pollux CD) in Skin Care
Crepidiastrum Denticulatum Extract is a plant derived antiaging cosmeceutical ingredient that has shown to protect the skin from the effects of air pollution. It is also called Pollux CD.
It is found in antiaging wrinkle creams, especially those meant to protect skin from pollution and increase autophagy.
Plant derived natural ingredient
Crepidiastrum Denticulatum is a plant native to parts of Asia, including Korea and China. It grows in mountainous regions. The leaves and stems of the plant are used to make the extract. It is a natural ingredient that may be considered organic if grown following organic farming standards.
Diet
It has been in the diet of Koreans for many years. The young leaves are consumed as a vegetable.
Topical Use
This water soluble plant derived ingredient is found in antiaging creams.
Skin Care Products
This is one of the most exciting new antiaging ingredients in 2023 and it is so new that it is not in very many products yet. We will continue to add products here as they come out. These are the medical grade brands that have Pollux CD:
Benefits
With its unique cellular effects, Crepidiastrum Denticulatum Extract offers several benefits for skin. These benefits make it a great antiaging cream to begin in your 20s and 30s to help protect your skin.
Anti-aging: By stimulating autophagy and protecting against free radicals, it can help prevent signs of aging like wrinkles and dark spots.
Anti-inflammatory: Research showed it decreases inflammatory chemicals like interleukin-6, reducing redness and irritation.
Pollution protection: It shields skin cells from toxins found in urban pollution like cigarette smoke and heavy metals. This prevents damage from environmental factors.
Antioxidant: Its natural plant compounds scavenge free radicals, supporting the skin’s defense system.
The antioxidant and has anti-inflammatory activity are the reasons this is an exciting new antiaging skin care ingredient. It helps treat and prevent aging because it:
Increases autophagy (1,2)
Decreases cellular senescence(1)
Neutralizes free radicals (3,4)
Decreases inflammation
The unique tissue-regenerating and protective effects of Crepidiastrum Denticulatum Extract make it an intriguing ingredient for anti-aging and anti-pollution skin care products. Its plant-based compounds work at the cellular level to promote youthful, healthy skin.
It activates autophagy, the cell’s natural garbage disposal. This clears out toxins and damage that accumulate over time.
It limits inflammation by reducing inflammatory proteins like COX-2. This calms irritation.
It protects fibroblasts and keratinocytes from pollution-related chemicals like heavy metals and PAHs. This prevents toxicity from urban environments.
It acts as an antioxidant to neutralize free radicals from UV exposure and other stressors. This prevents oxidative damage.
Chemistry
The key active compounds in Crepidiastrum denticulatum extract are flavonoids and other polyphenols.
Specific flavonoids found in the extract include quercetin, kaempferol, luteolin, and apigenin. These flavonoids have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects in the skin.
In addition to flavonoids, the extract contains phenolic acids like chlorogenic acid and caffeic acid. It also provides sesquiterpene lactones which are anti-microbial. The combination of flavonoids, phenolic acids, and sesquiterpenes give Crepidiastrum denticulatum extract well-rounded active properties to benefit aging or at risk skin.
Safety
The EWG and CIR have not examined any safety data on this ingredient when used topially.
It has been used in studies to show it can protect the liver from alcohol damage and the kidneys from reperfusion injury. These all suggest that this ingredient is safe.
Research Studies
A recent study published in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2) looked at how Crepidiastrum Denticulatum Extract works on skin cells. The researchers found that it increased autophagy in fibroblasts, which are cells in the dermis. It also protected the fibroblasts from damage caused by pollution chemicals. And it decreased inflammation in keratinocytes, which are cells in the epidermis.
Autophagy:
In this study, they screened the autophagic activators from various plant extracts of family Compositae. Among them, CD extract showed increased the LC3 protein synthesis and LC3 cleavage with activating the phosphorylation of AMPK and beclin1 that are critical components in the regulation of autophagy.
Pollution protection:
It is known that pyrene and benzopyrene(BaP), which are poly-aromatic hydrocarbons(PAH), have the highest carcinogenicity and toxicity among the environmental pollutants. The treatment of CD extract recovered cell viability from BaP-induced cytotoxicity. In particular, the improvement of cell recovery was found to be superior than that of resveratrol, a typical autophagic activator.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
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