Licorice Extract in Skin Care
Licorice root extract is used in many skin care products for the face like moisturizers, anti-aging creams, and sunscreens.
It is a common natural ingredient found across the world and throughout history for its versatility in medicine, food, and cosmetics.
Licorice extract in skin care has many appreciable benefits and only a few potential side effects. It is great for controlling acne breakouts, moisturizing skin, and eliminating free radicals!
Find out if licorice extract is right for your Baumann Skin Type by taking the quiz for free below!
What is licorice extract?
Licorice extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra) is an oil pressed from the roots of a licorice plant.
It was used for medical and dietary purposes by ancient civilizations like the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, the ancient Chinese Han Dynasty (300-200B.C.E) (2).
Today, licorice remains one of the most frequently used herbs in eastern holistic supplements and remedies.
Licorice root extract is an ancient, versatile, and popular ingredient in modern western skin care products as well.
Several species of licorice are used for their extracts in skin care today.
Closely related to common licorice root is (Glycyrrhiza inflata), the Chinese licorice root. they share pharmaceutical and dietary uses even though they are not the exact same species (3).
Glycyrrhiza echinata
What are the benefits of licorice root extract?
Licorice root extract has a variety of appreciable benefits used in skin care and in other kinds of products.
It is commonly used in moisturizers for its high concentration of beneficial moisturizing fatty acids.
Licorice root is anti-microbial, meaning it eliminates bacteria and can be used to extend shelf lives of skin care or food products.
Anti-microbials like LRE are also extremely useful in acne products.
It is also estrogenic, meaning it can be used in some hormone supplements to regulate various reproductive processes. (5)
There are active antioxidants in LRE as well, meaning it is good for conditions like sun damage and other forms of hyperpigmentation. (1)
It is a tyrosinase inhibitor, which means it slows melanin production and treats dark spots.
The anti-inflammatories in LRE are great for soothing inflammation, irritation, or mild allergic reactions on the skin. (5)
Is licorice root extract used in skin care?
Licorice root extract is a versatile compound that is very common and useful in skin care products.
Licorice root extract is used in a variety of skin care products like:
anti-aging serums
facial peels
moisturizers
skin lighteners
sunscreens
Take the questionnaire to shop by your skin type for the best licorice oils for you! Additionally, you can find some of my favorite licorice root extract products here:
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is licorice root safe for use in skin care?
Safety
Licorice root extract is safe for use as long as you are not pregnant while using it. Glabridin, a compoent in licorice extract, has shown potential teratogenic effects in some studies, meaning it could cause developmental abnormalities in a fetus. This makes it a concern for use during pregnancy.
The EWG score for licorice root is “5” which is on the “Not safe” end of the 5 point scale. However, the only advisement is to avoid use during pregnancy. (There are forms of glabridin free licorice extract that can be used in pregnancy- but they are not as effective as a tyrosinase inhibitor)
An allergy to LRE is possible, but very rare.
At any other point, licorice root extract is completely safe for use and is often recommended in many skin care products.
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Using licorice extract while pregnant
One study conducted in Finland showed that babies who were exposed to high amounts of ingested licorice in utero experienced a few developmental differences from a control group (17).
The children with high exposure to licorice grew to be taller, heavier, and started puberty sooner than the control.
It also appeared that the same group exposed to licorice exhibited worse memory and a higher tendency for mild learning disability (17).
To avoid any chance of developmental abnormalities, it is advised to avoid licorice root while pregnant, including in body care.
what is licorice oil made of
What are the active compounds in licorice root extract?
Many different compounds make up this versatile and beneficial extract.
Licorice root extract contains a high concentration of flavonoids like glabridins, which give the extract a yellow hue.(4)
Anywhere between 4-25% of the extract is made of glycyrrhizinic (Gli-syr-i-zi-nic) acid, depending on how the extract was refined.
Other active compounds in LRE are(4):
Abscisic acid
Benzoic acid
Beta-sitosterol
Glycyrrhetinic acid
Glycyrrhiza polysaccharide
Isoliquiritigenin
Liquiritigenin
Liquiritin
Salicylic acid
This diverse composition gives licorice extract an important place in many skin care products such as:
licorice root for hyperpigmentation
Licorice extract for skin lightening
Licorice root extract is a tyrosinase inhibitor, which means it stops your skin from producing melanin (the pigment that darkens skin color).
LRE is great for use in skin lightening products, and works more effectively alongside PAR-2 blockers like Niacinamide or other tyrosinase inhibitors like hexylresorcinol.
There are a number of effective hyperpigmentation regimens that could make great use of LRE, but it can take between 8-16 weeks to see results just like any healthy skin lightener.
Antioxidants in LRE also treat sun damage and help prevent skin cancer by eliminating free radical ions on and just beneath the skin.
Licorice extract for melasma
Melasma is a skin pigment disorder which is most commonly treated with tyrosinase inhibitors like licorice root extract.
Melasma is common during pregnancy, but LRE is not advised for use while pregnant.
Check out this article all about treating melasma during pregnancy to find alternatives for LRE.
To make sure LRE is right for your custom skin care regimen, take the Baumann Skin Type questionnaire to shop by your skin type!
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.