What Are Retinoids Used in Skin Care Products?

Retinoids are a type of Vitamin A used to treat acne, wrinkles, psoriasis, and hyperpigmentation. Retinoid creams have a lot of evidence-based research to support their use which is why there are so many prescription retinoids.1 I am a dermatologist in Miami and I prescribe retinoids for at least 80% of my patients. This blog will tell you why I feel they are so good to treat many skin issues. This basic guide to retinoids in topical skin care will compare the various types of retinoids like retinol, adapalene, tretinoin, tazarotene, and trifarotene.

If you are trying to find retinoid containing skincare products that are right for your skin type, make sure you know your Baumann Skin Type. Once you know your skin type, we can give you more specific advice on which retinoids to use.

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What are retinoids?

The definition of a retinoid is a natural or laboratory-made ingredient in the Vitamin A family that binds the retinoic acid receptor (RAR). When the RAR receptor is bound and turned on (like a key in a lock), many important genes are affected that turn on and off cellular pathways.

Types of Retinoids

There are many types of retinoids used topically in skincare including:

Adapalene

Tazarotene

Tretinoin

Trifarotene

Retinaldehyde (Retinal)

Retinol

Retinyl Esters

These are the retinoids that you can get without a prescription:

Adapalene (Both RX and OTC)

Retinaldehyde (Retinal)

Retinol

Retinyl Esters

List of Retinoids

Topical Retinoid List

There are 3 generations of retinoids. The second and third generation retinoids area all prescription only. The topical retinoid ingredients found in prescription skin care include tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene, and trifarotene. Adapalene is both an OTC and a prescription drug. Cosmetic retinoids include retinol, retinoid esters such as retinyl palmitate and retinyl linoleate, and retinal (also called retinaldehyde). The retinyl esters such as retinyl palmitate2 and retinyl lineolate do not penetrate into the skin very well, Beta Carotene is also a retinoid.

Chemical Structure of Retinoids

The chemical structure of retinoids36 is shown below. Click here to learn more about the science of retinoids and how retinoids improve aged skin and acne.

Conversion into Retinoic Acid

Retinol and retinyl palmitate are precursors to all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA), the active form that binds the RARs and exerts therapeutic effects on the skin. When applied to skin, these compounds undergo enzymatic conversion within the skin to become retinoic acid. The conversion process involves specific enzymes.

Once converted to retinoic acid (RA) in the skin, RA binds to retinoic acid receptors and exert its effects such as promoting collagen production. It’s important to note that this conversion process can result in a delayed onset of effects compared to direct application of retinoic acid.

conversion of retinol to ATRA

Conversion of Retinyl Esters

Retinyl palmitate, retinyl linoleate and other esterified forms of vitamin A are converted to retinol in the skin by esterases.

Conversion of Retinol

Retinol is oxidized to retinaldehyde by alcohol dehydrogenases. In the final step, retinaldehyde is converted to retinoic acid through the action of aldehyde dehydrogenases.

Conversion of Retinaldehyde

Retinaldehyde is converted into retinoic acid through the action of a group of enzymes called aldehyde dehydrogenases.

Light Sensitivity of Retinoids

Retinoids vary in their sensitivity to light. First-generation retinoids, such as tretinoin and retinol, are known to be sensitive to light, which can lead to their breakdown and a decrease in efficacy when exposed to sunlight. Retinaldehyde, another first-generation retinoid, also shows some sensitivity to light, though to a lesser extent compared to tretinoin and retinol. Retinyl esters, used in many cosmetic formulations, are more stable than retinol but still can degrade with light exposure. In contrast, second-generation retinoids like adapalene and third-generation retinoids such as tazarotene and trifarotene exhibit greater stability in the presence of light, making them suitable for daytime use. Therefore, while tretinoin, retinol, and retinaldehyde are best applied at night to avoid light-induced degradation, adapalene, tazarotene, and trifarotene can be incorporated into both day and night skincare routines.

This list compares sensitivity to light of the various topical retinoids:

Tretinoin (most sensitive to light)

Retinol

Retinaldehyde

Retinyl Esters

Adapalene

Tazarotene

Trifarotene (least sensitive to light)

Stability of Retinoids in sun

Can I use retinol and tretinoin together?

Tretinoin is retinoic acid and retinol turns into retinoic acid in the skin. They are the same thing except tretinoin is stronger. Using these together can cause over exfoliation. However, if tretinoin is too strong for you, you can try using tretinoin one day and then a low strength retinol for 3 days and then tretinoin again on day 5. As you adjust, you can slowly increase how often you use tretinoin with the goal of using tretinoin every night and stopping the retinol.

Which Retinoid To Use First?

When you are a beginner to retinoids, it is best to start with a weaker retinoid like a low strength and work your way up. Begin with retinol, then use adapalene and then switch to tretinoin. Once you can handle tretinoin, switch to tazarotene.

If you want to use a prescription medication and you are choosing between adapalene and tretinoin – start with adapalene.

These are low strength retinoids below to start with.

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Plant-Derived, Natural and Organic Retinoids

There are no organic or natural alternatives to retinol and retinoids on the market at this time that are effective on the skin when used topically. Vitamin A, retinyl palmitate, retinol and beta carotene are retinoids found in the diet. These cannot be placed on the skin, nor can Vitamin A rich foods like carrots, because they will not penetrate into the skin to where the RAR are. So don’t waste your money on skin care products with carrot and other Vitamin A rich foods when you are wanting natural antiaging skincare. For retinoids in skincare to be effective- they must be made in the laboratory.

Carotenoids are plant derived retinoids and include alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, beta cryptoxanthin, lutein, zeaxanthin and lycopene. Plant derived retinoids are not very effective in topical skincare products because they do not penetrate very well into the skin. These natural plant derived retinoids are best to get in your diet. This is why you do not see vegan skin care products with retinoids. Homemade retinol serums will not work because putting carrots and other carotenoids on the skin is not beneficial because the Vitamin A is not in a form that it can get into the skin.

Bakuchiol and Retinoids

Bakuchiol, a natural ingredient that many claim is a natural form of retinoid, does NOT bind the RAR receptor and therefore by definition is not a retinoid.3 Bakuchiol has been shown to have antiaging effects similar to those seen with retinoids.

What Retinoids Do for Skin

Retinoids do many things to skin. The mechanism of action of their effects depends upon what skin conditions are being treated with retinoids. Below I discuss how retinoids work for different skin concerns. To learn more in depth science about retinoids read about RAR receptors or the Science of Retinoids.

Retinoids for Acne

Retinoids were first used orally for acne with a drug called Accutane (isotretinoin). Soon after, topical forms called tretinoin were developed. Later more stable second and third generation retinoids like adapalene4 and tazarotene5 6 were developed that do not break down when combined with benzoyl peroxide. This led to the development of several acne prescription drugs that combine adapalene or tretinoin with benzoyl peroxide and/or topical antibiotics7 in prescription acne medications. The newest prescription retinoid for acne is trifarotene8 which selectively binds the RAR gamma receptor.

Why Retinoids are Used To Treat Acne

Retinoid have the ability to regulate skin cell growth, reduce inflammation, and alter gene expression. They also target Toll-like receptor 2 (TLR-2), which is activated by acne-causing bacteria, leading to inflammation. By inhibiting TLR-2 activity, retinoids decrease the bacterial-induced inflammation, helping to clear acne. This mechanism, combined with their ability to enhance skin renewal and reduce clogged pores, makes retinoids effective in managing acne and improving skin health.

Retinoids for Wrinkles

Retinoids are the most effective and most proven skincare ingredients to improve wrinkles and sun damage (photodamage)10 11 12 because they have the most evidence-based data. In fact, tazarotene and tretinoin are FDA approved to improve photoaged skin.14 15 All retinoids that can penetrate into the skin should improve wrinkles, but only tretinoin, tazarotene and retinol16 have clinical studies proving that they treat wrinkles.17 Retinol is a cosmeceutical and is not FDA approved to treat wrinkles.

Retinoids are a must for anyone wanting to preserve the looks of their skin and to improve the appearance of the skin. Retinol is the only retinoid with good efficacy data18 19 that is available without a prescription.20 21 22 Retinyl palmitate, retinyl linoleate, retinaldehyde (retinal) do not penetrate well into the skin which lowers their efficacy.23

History of Retinoid Use in Wrinkles

Retinoids were used for acne before they were used for wrinkles. During the clinical trials for acne, investigators noticed that the skin looked smoother and younger when treated with tretinoin.9 This observation led to a plethora of research on retinoids to treat wrinkles on the face. Dr. Albert Kligman was one of the doctors who developed the use of retinoids for acne along with Dr. Jim Leyden and others.

This is a link to a podcast on YouTube where I interview Dr. Leyden about how this amazing discovery occurred that forever changed the way dermatologists treat skin aging.

How Retinoids Work on Wrinkles

Retinoids combat wrinkles by influencing gene expression, notably by activating genes that promote collagen production while inhibiting those involved in its breakdown, primarily through their impact on matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and collagenase. This action not only helps in preserving the skin’s structure but also enhances the synthesis of vital components like hyaluronic acid and elastin. The overall effect is a significant reduction in wrinkles and an improvement in skin texture and firmness, showcasing retinoids’ profound anti-aging capabilities.

How To Choose A Retinoid

The best way to find the right retinoid is to let us help you. Take the quiz and we can tell you which retinol to use. Once you get on the strongest retinol, you can progress to a stronger prescription retinoid.

Retinoid vs Retinol vs Retinyl Esters

Many people confuse the words retinol and retinoid. Retinol is in the retinoid family (which is also the Vitamin A family). All retinoids work like retinoic acid because they bind the retinoic acid receptor (RAR).

Retinyl palmitate, retinyl linoleate and any other ingredients with names resembling “Retinyl ____ate”, are chemically altered esters of retinol. While they are considered retinoids because they bind the RAR receptor, they penetrate very poorly into skin and are not very effective when used topically. Retinyl palmitate is controversial because it is believed to cause cancer when exposed to UV rays.24 (Avoid retinyl palmitate when you can or use it in conjunction with a sunscreen).

Other Names For Retinol?

There are many ineffective retinol products on the market. Retinol is the ingredient name to look for on the label- but many products that claim to have retinol actually have retinol-like ingredients that do not penetrate well into the skin like the retinyl esters: retinyl palmitate and retinyl propriate.25 This is a problem, but because retinol is considered a cosmetic ingredient, it does not have FDA oversight so quality control is compromised. Other names for retinoids are listed in the images above.

Which retinoid and retinol products are best?

All prescription retinoids undergo scrutiny from the FDA and can be trusted. They are manufactured properly and formulated with an FDA approved formulation.

Cosmeceutical retinoids are not regulated by the FDA and there are many ineffective ones on the market. Retinol breaks apart upon exposure to air or light and to oxidizing ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide. This means that the formulations, manufacturing, bottling and storage of retinol will affect its strength and efficacy. Also- the product labels of retinol products can be misleading. Many products that claim to have retinol on the label actually have retinyl esters such as retinyl palmitate.26 This is why you need to make sure you buy a retinol product from a source you trust.

What do retinoids do for skin?

Retinoids do many important things to the skin. To learn more about the science of how retinoids work, click here or read this reference.27

Here is a list of some of the benefits of retinoids like retinol on the skin:

Increase the skin’s production of collagen, which helps smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles

Promote the skin’s natural exfoliation process to eliminate damaged surface cells

Treat uneven skin tone by fading excess pigment and evening skin tone

Prevent clogged pores and improve the appearance of pores

Prevent and treat acne

Improve red purple stretch marks28

Speed wound healing29 when used prior to a surgical or laser procedure30

Retinoids are the best antiaging ingredient in antiwrinkle serums!

Will retinol improve crow’s feet wrinkles?

Retinol has been shown to improve crow’s feet wrinkles around the eyes when used for one year.

Two studies showed that using retinol 0.1% for 52-weeks (one year), 44% of subjects had a significant improvement of crow’s feet lines.(37-39) Combining retinoids with botulinum toxins like Botox in the crow’s feet area has been shown to improve crow’s feet better than Botox alone. (38) Retinol has also been shown to improve results of botulinum toxin injections. (39)

Using retinol and other retinoids has been shown to improve wrinkles, dark spots, acne, keratosis pilaris, skin texture and protect skin from further aging. It is worth the effort to use retinoids! Once you make it though the first 2-4 weeks you will get past the scaling and skin sensitivity and begin to see the befits. If you follow the skin care routine instructions for retinoids and use a skin care routine customized for your Baumann Skin Type, you should be able to begin using your retinoids without significant side effects.

Remember- only buy retinol products from a source you trust, there are many counterfeit products online and many products that do not contain what they claim or that are manufactured improperly. Here are some of our favorite retinols. You can also talk to your dermatologist about getting a prescription for tretinoin, adapalene or trifarotene or tazarotene.

Retinoid Side Effects

If you do not use your retinoids properly as described in this blog, then you can experience many retinoid side effects discussed in this blog. Retinoids are safe to use but can cause temporary redness, skin stinging, and peeling.

Long Term Effects of Retinol and Retinoids

Retinoids have been shown to thicken the dermal layer of the skin making it stronger and less likely to tear or wrinkle. Skin is smoother with less wrinkles. Skin pigmentation is more even. These benefits have been shown in dozens of studies. The longer you use the retinoid, the more benefits you will have. However- it may take 4-8 months to begin seeing benefits depending upon your skin type, the type of retinoid you use, and how much you use. You will get the best results if you follow the instructions at this link on how to use retinoids.

How Long Do Retinoid Benefits Last?

How long retinoid benefits last depends upon the type of retinoid used and how long the retinoid was used. We recommend not stopping retinoids and staying on them until something better is invented.

The beneficial long-term effects of retinoids seem to last for many months to years after stopping the retinoid.31 32 It is best to continue the retinoid nightly forever (or until something better is invented). However, if you forget to use your retinoids every once in a while, do not worry- you still get a good benefit from the retinoid. One study showed that after using tretinoin 0.05% cream nightly for 48 weeks, decreasing application to 3 times a week was able to sustain the skin benefits.33 Once a week of retinoid use also had a benefit, but not as much as 3 times a week. Therefore- you should use the retinoid at least 3 times a week to maintain the benefit after you have finished a 48-week course of every night. Many studies that examined skin under the microscope have shown beneficial long-term effects of retinoids such as increased collagen and hyaluronic acid levels in skin.34 35

There is so much to know about retinoids- but don’t worry- we can help you find the best retinoid for your Baumann Skin Type.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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