Exfoliation vs Desquamation of Skin
Desquamation and exfoliation of the skin are the processes by which old dead skin cells are removed from the skin’s surface. Desquamation and exfoliation are responsible for keeping the skin surface smooth and glowing from reflected light.
When the desquamation process is not functioning properly, dead skin cells build up on the skin’s surface, making it look dull and “old” and lifeless.
Exfoliation and desquamation of skin occur when cells from the top outer layer of the skin known as the stratum corneum are removed.
This blog will discuss what desquamation is and why desquamating skin cells are a good thing in healthy skin. When skin cells cannot desquamate properly, acne, rough skin, and ashy skin can result. Some skin diseases are characterized by excessive desquamation. This blog will limit the discussion to healthy skin and how skin care products affect desquamation.
Desquamation vs Exfoliation
The words exfoliation and desquamation are often used interchangeably, but they do not have the same meaning. Desquamation happens naturally while exfoliation is caused by an external force such as an exfoliant or friction.
Desquamation
The definition of desquamation is the normal skin cycle of keratinocyte skin cells being born from stem cells at the basal layer of the epidermis, maturing, changing and flaking off at the skin’s surface.
Exfoliation
Exfoliators can be used to help the skin complete the desquamation process and smooth skin. Exfoliation is when you use an exfoliant to speed up the skin’s natural desquamation process.
desquamate vs exfoliate
Keratinization
Keratinization is the skin cell’s life cycle, wherein cells in the outermost layer of the skin (epidermis) produce a protein called keratin.
Keratinization begins in the basal layer of the epidermis. As these keratinocyte skin cells migrate towards the skin surface, they begin to fill with keratin, This keratin-enriched top layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, acts as a protective shield against external environmental factors, such as pathogens and physical abrasions.
While keratinization is about the formation and maturation of skin cells, desquamation focuses on the removal of old, dead cells from the skin’s surface. Both processes are intricately linked and play a pivotal role in maintaining the skin’s health and integrity.
Layers of the Epidermis Where Exfoliation Occurs
layers of the epidermis
What is skin keratinization?
Keratinization is the process of keratinocyte cells being “born” from stem cells and moving slowly through the layers of the skin to the skin’s surface. Keratinization results in the formation of skin, hair and nails. Keratin is a strong protein made by the skin’s keratinocytes.
Removing cells from the outermost layer of the epidermis (known as the stratum corneum ) triggers stem cells in the basal layer to begin dividing and making new cells.
In other words, desquamation and exfoliation trigger the development of new skin cells in the basal layer of the epidermis. Normal desquamation is necessary to keep skin smooth, radiant and glowing.
Dehydrated skin has impaired exfoliation. Exfoliators can be used to speed up the desquamation of the skin, but overuse of exfoliators can cause skin dehydration and inflammation.
When you do not use the right products for your Baumann Skin Type, or if you over exfoliate, you can disturb the desquamation process and hurt the health of your skin. You can take our skin type quiz to find out which products are bet for your skin type.
What skin type am I?
What is the Difference Between Exfoliation and Desquamation?
Exfoliation and desquamation both result in the same endpoint- the removal of cells from the outermost layer of the stratum corneum of the epidermis.
The difference in desquamation and exfoliation is how the outermost dead layer of SC skin cells is removed.
Desquamation is a natural process while exfoliation depends upon the use of exfoliators.
To understand the difference between exfoliation and desquamation, you must also learn the definition of keratinization.
Definition of Keratinization
Definition of Keratinization
The meaning of keratinization is the process of skin cells being “born” from stem cells in the basal layer of the epidermis and maturing and moving up to the top layer of the skin known as the stratum corneum.
The word keratinization comes from the skin protein keratin that is made by the epidermal skin cells (called keratinocytes).
Keratin is a structural protein found in skin, hair and nails that provides strength.
Different layers of the skin make different types of keratin.
The word keratinization comes from the fact that as the keratinocyte skin cells mature, the type of keratin they make changes.
skin exfoliation can take 40 days
Desquamation definition
Definition of Desquamation
“Squam” means “skin cell” and comes from the Latin word “squama” meaning “the scale of the fish” (because scaly skin looks like fish skin).
Desquamate is the word used to describe when cells flake or scale off of the skin. Desquamation is the naturally occurring process when the attachments between skin cells that hold them together are dissolved by enzymes. This loosens the attachments between skin cells and allows them to “desquamate” into the environment. Desquamation is a natural unaided process.
how layers of the epidermis desquamate
Definition of Exfoliation
Exfoliation is when exfoliators are used to enhance desquamation.
Exfoliators such as scrubs, hydroxyacids, microdermabrasion and facial brushes help loosen cell attachments to speed the desquamation process.
Controlling exfoliation with skincare products can give you glowing healthy skin, but you need to make sure you are using the correct skincare routine steps for your Baumann Skin Type.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.