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Ask The Dermatologist: What Really is “Medical-Grade” Skincare and What Makes it Better?
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Ask The Dermatologist: What Really is “Medical-Grade” Skincare and What Makes it Better?

12 March 2025


Ask The Dermatologist: What Really is “Medical-Grade” Skincare and What Makes it Better?




When it comes to accessing quality skincare products with high concentrations of active ingredients like azelaic acid and retinol, many people see their dermatologists for a prescription. But “medical-grade” products with high concentrations are just as effective and can now be obtained over the counter.



Dr. Anthony Nuara, MD PhD FAAD is here to break down the benefits of “medical-grade” skincare, and why these products are more effective than most OTC alternatives.




What is Medical-Grade Skincare?



Medical-grade skincare products are made with higher concentrations of active ingredients to rival prescription products. These products target specific medical conditions and areas of concern, such as acne, rosacea, or hyperpigmentation. Many OTC skincare products contain low concentrations of active ingredients to be suitable for all skin types and avoid having to seek FDA approval. Medical-grade skincare products do not require FDA approval, but products should be tested for purity, labeled appropriately, and meet rigorous United States Pharmacopeia (USP) standards.




Ingredients & Formulation



As stated above, active ingredients in medical-grade products have higher concentrations than most OTC alternatives. This makes them more potent, but because their concentrations are still not as high as prescription skincare products, they also tend to carry fewer side effects.




In addition to having a higher concentration of the active ingredients, medical-grade skincare products also have the purest form of those ingredients. While some OTC skincare products fail to penetrate the epidermis, medical-grade products are designed to reach the deepest layers of the skin. Such products should be backed by research and formulated by medical professionals, including board-certified dermatologists and pharmacists.



Dermatologist-Recommended Skincare




In the past, highly-concentrated medical-grade products were only available with a prescription. But access has improved with a number of these high-quality products now being available to all.



Foundation Skincare products are formulated by a board-certified dermatologist, a chemist and a pharmacist with expertise in formulations and compounding. Each raw ingredient has been painstakingly sourced and verified by science to not just ensure the highest quality and efficacy without a prescription, but also to ensure the product is gentle enough for all skin types. Read on to find out more about how our medical-grade products compare to OTC products, how we ensure safety and quality assurance, and which products will address your specific skin concerns.




Product Customization & Personalization



When you visit a dermatologist, you can expect to leave with a personalized plan based on your specific needs. Most over-the-counter skincare brands leave it up to the consumer to diagnose their condition and figure out the best treatment plan for their concerns without personalized guidance along the way.




While Foundation Skincare does not customize products based on each customer, our collection is comprehensive enough to cover most skin issues, whether you’re hoping to slow the signs of premature aging or prevent acne breakouts. At the same time, our approach is designed to address skincare needs from the inside out with topical products and targeted supplements. All the products in the Foundation Skincare collection are also formulated to layer well with each other so that you can build a skincare regimen that meets your specific needs.



If you are ever unsure about what product to use, you can contact our Customer Support team for guidance.




Niacinamide Lotion 10%



Niacinamide Lotion 10%




• Renews dry, dull skin & texture



• Calms acne, minimizes flare-ups




• Improves inflammation & redness



Regular price$45




Add to cart



Over-the-Counter vs Medical-Grade Skincare




To understand how medical-grade skincare compares to a standard over-the-counter product, consider our in-depth analysis of Foundation Skincare’s Azelaic Acid 14% Cream and The Ordinary Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension.



Both products aim to reduce acne and hyperpigmentation, but Foundation Skincare’s Azelaic Acid Cream contains a medical-grade concentration of 14%. This is crucial, as prescription products contain 15-20% of the active ingredient, and most research studies revolve around this higher concentration. It’s important to note that some people may be sensitive to a concentration of 20%, and experience dryness or irritation. FS Azelaic Acid 14% is potent enough to make a significant improvement in the skin’s condition without the higher risk of irritation. Even more, it contains soothing ingredients like aloe leaf juice and jojoba seed oil, which help to reduce inflammation.




In fact, FS Azelaic Acid 14% is so gentle, it can easily be layered with other products in the Foundation Skincare collection. If you’re fighting acne, you might want to pair this product with other medical-grade products like FS Niacinamide Lotion 10%, which balances sebum (oil production) to help control and prevent acne. If your main concern is hyperpigmentation, you may want to layer with FS Vitamin C Lotion 20%, another medical-grade formulation, which helps to block the action of an enzyme called tyrosinase to fade brown spots and acne scars.



The Ordinary Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension, on the other hand, should not be layered with products containing niacinamide, peptides, direct acids, or retinoids according to the manufacturers. The product is also silicone heavy, which may interfere with its ability to properly penetrate the skin.




Safety & Quality Assurance



In addition to being formulated by a board-certified dermatologist and pharmacist, Foundation Skincare products have been rigorously tested to ensure safety and efficacy. All Foundation Skincare products are made and filled in state-of-the-art GMP certified facilities in San Diego, California, in accordance with USP standards. And all products contain long standing proven ingredients that have been carefully sourced.




How to Choose Medical-Grade Skincare



Accessing medical-grade skincare is not as difficult as it used to be. To help you choose, look for dermatologist-formulated products with science-backed ingredients in concentrations that match or nearly match pharmaceutical products. Check to see if these ingredients are carefully sourced for purity and quality assurance and formulated in GMP certified facilities. All medical-grade products in the Foundation Skincare collection contain ingredients backed by clinical research:




FS Azelaic Acid 14% Cream: Uses a clinically-proven ingredient shown to reduce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and acne1



FS Vitamin C Lotion 20%: Brightens skin while increasing collagen production as shown in numerous studies2


FS Niacinamide Lotion 10%: Verified to control acne, fade hyperpigmentation, and increase ceramides for improved skin texture 3

FS Hyaluronic Acid Lotion: A powerful humectant proven to draws moisture in to plump skin and restore elasticity while helping to repair the skin barrier4

FS Night Renewal Cream with 2% Granactive Retinoid: Contains essential peptide growth factors and plant-based botanicals which have been shown to effectively visibly reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots, and sagging skin while accelerating cellular turnover5

FS Firming Neck Cream: Contains palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, which provides retinoid-like results, with less irritation6

Whether you are struggling with acne, premature aging, or hyperpigmentation, medical-grade skincare products offer a compelling alternative to prescription products. Explore more research on Foundation Skincare’s products and medical-grade skincare in the FS Journal.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
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