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Enhancing Your Skincare Routine with Handheld Light Therapy Wands
Beauty

Enhancing Your Skincare Routine with Handheld Light Therapy Wands

17 March 2025


Can Handheld Light Wands Really Improve Your Skin?




What if you could point something at your skin — in the comfort of your own home, no less — and decrease skin problems like wrinkles and acne? That’s the promise of light wands.



Light therapy wands feature LED (light emitting diode) lights in various colors. “LED devices are commonly used in skin care for their anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits. These treatments are available both in the office and at home with the development of individually used devices,” says Joshua Zeichner, MD, the director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology and an associate professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.




When you’re looking to use one of these devices at home, you can purchase one over the counter. Wands are in the same category as LED masks, but they differ in that they cover a smaller surface area than a mask that is applied over the entire face.



Are Light Therapy Wands Safe to Use?




Most of these LED devices use red light. “Red light therapy has been shown in clinical trials to calm the skin and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The benefits are thought to be due to collagen stimulation,” explains Dr. Zeichner.



In addition, red light is also very safe, says Lauren Fine, MD, a dermatologist based in Chicago. Of the at-home devices one can use, such as a microneedling device, LED wands tend to be safe because they don’t break or manipulate the skin, which can cause a reaction. If you’re looking for an at-home device, an LED device can be a good choice. There is also no downtime associated with using them.




Indeed, research published in the April 2020 Journal of Drugs in Dermatology found that, overall, “light emitting diode (LED) phototherapy is a promising treatment modality for photorejuvenation, as it is safe, noninvasive, accessible, and can be easily combined with other treatment options,” the authors conclude.



“In general, LED light has been around for a long time to treat atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, and vitiligo, and it’s been newly found to help reduce some of the signs of aging,” says Gretchen Frieling, MD, a triple board-certified dermatopathologist in Wellesley, Massachusetts. While your dermatologist’s office may also use light treatment, these at-home handheld devices are a lower strength, she says.




Also important to note is that light therapy wands are FDA-cleared, which is a lesser designation than FDA-approved. “‘Cleared’ means that the device is useful and shown to produce results similar to other products on the market. It does not mean it’s FDA-approved like a prescription medication,” explains Dr. Frieling. That is okay in terms of safety, but it’s helpful to understand the difference.



One exception to safety is blue light. “There’s a big red flag around blue light because it can stimulate melanin production, particularly in people who have darker skin types, increasing the risk of hyperpigmentation. If treating yourself at home, I recommend sticking with red,” says Frieling.




How Do Light Therapy Wands Work?



There are different types of light: ultraviolet light, such as UVA and UVB rays from sunlight, and visible light, which is where red and blue light come in. (These are the two main light colors used in dermatology, says Frieling.)




Different colors of light have different wavelengths, and penetrate skin to different depths. This is why various LED devices may have different effects. Compared with red light, blue light has a shorter wavelength (420 to 440 nanometers) that penetrates skin on a superficial level, which is why it’s been used for acne, as it can kill bacteria, one cause of acne.



Most often, though, you’ll find red lights in LED light wands, which have a longer wavelength (630 to 680 nanometers). Red light reaches deeper layers of the skin to stimulate collagen production. “With more collagen production, you get more volume in the skin and less wrinkling,” says Frieling.




What Are the Potential Benefits of Light Therapy Wands?



A systematic review and meta-analysis published in July 2023 in Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine of 31 studies concluded that both red and blue LEDs are effective in treating acne, and red can be used to rejuvenate skin by stimulating collagen and decreasing inflammation.




“I believe in the technology, and I think it works,” says Dr. Fine. But it’s important to maintain realistic expectations. “You can expect mild to moderate improvement in overall skin quality, and perhaps acne if used consistently,” she explains. Another catch is the wand must be used consistently for the amount of time recommended (by the device manufacturer) to create results.



To make the most of your treatment, Frieling recommends exfoliating skin before using an LED device (to get rid of dead skin cells, allowing the light to penetrate more effectively) and moisturizing after.




Frieling adds that if you’re going to use a light wand device, do so as part of a well-rounded skin-care routine, such as including a retinoid (which works on both acne and collagen stimulation). This is a good time to talk to your dermatologist about where this can fit in and, depending on your skin conditions or goals, what else — topicals, injectables, in-office lasers, you should be using. “Using a red LED light for the rest of your life won’t prevent skin aging,” she says.



One light therapy wand to consider, says Zeichner, is the Solawave 4-in-1 Facial Wand ($110, Amazon.com). This device looks like a razor, and utilizes red light therapy, microcurrent therapy, facial massage, and warmth for a more full-package treatment than other light therapy wands on the market. “Microcurrents are low-level electrical pulses thought to strengthen the foundation of the skin. Vibrations offer massaging benefits to depuff,” he explains. In addition, Zeichner notes that the small size of the device makes it easily portable. Plus, it costs less than other products in this category.




Are There Any Downsides to Light Therapy Wands?



“Just because you can get one of these tools without a prescription or doctor’s visit doesn’t mean that it’s the best or safest choice for your skin,” says Fine. Here are a few considerations.




May Interact With Medications



Certain medications can make your skin photosensitive, says Fine. This means it will be more sensitive or have an unusual reaction to sources of light, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation. Some medications that can increase your sensitivity to the sun include certain antibiotics, antifungals, antihistamines, and diuretics, among others, according to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). This is a reason to talk to a dermatologist before using an LED light wand.


May Be Time-Consuming

A handheld wand covers a very small surface area, and if you have to spend minutes on each section of the face, using one can become onerous and take a lot of time. “If I invest in a home light device, I think it makes more sense to do the full face with a mask. These can be pricey, and you’d get more of a benefit with something that has more coverage,” says Fine.

Could Trigger Irritation

If your skin is excessively dry or sensitive or you have open sores on your face from acne, Fine cautions that an LED light device could trigger more irritation. In addition, though red light can be used to ease skin redness, it can also cause skin redness in particularly sensitive people that “sticks around for hours.” “For people who get red easily, I’d be cautious,” she says.

The Takeaway

Handheld light therapy wands are an at-home skin treatment option that use different wavelengths of LED light to penetrate your skin and target acne, lines, wrinkles, and uneven tones and textures.

Experts recommend using red light only, as blue light could cause discoloration.

Ask your dermatologist if your skin could benefit from one of these devices and how it might fit into your overall skin-care routine.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
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