Can You use Kojic Acid and Azelaic Acid?
When it comes to skincare ingredients, there are a few active ingredients that are so beloved that everyone seems to use them on a daily basis. On the other hand, there are active ingredients that are hidden in the beauty
industry but are not yet household names or prestigious names. Today’s blog post focuses on two outsiders, azelaic acid and kojic acid. What exactly do these ingredients do to the skin and how do you use them together?
In the next section, we’ll explain the benefits of these ingredients and how to effectively incorporate them into your daily skincare routine.
What is kojic acid?
Kojic acid is one of the lesser known chemical exfoliants in the AHA family. It is a by-product of various mushrooms and fermented foods such as soy sauce, rice wine, and sake. Has the ability to block the amino acid tyrosine,
which is responsible for the production of melanin. This makes kojic acid one of the most effective whitening and whitening acids. Those concerned about sun damage, age spots, hyperpigmentation and melasma areas. You’ll find
that kojic acid is also an effective ingredient in fighting breakouts and acne due to its antibacterial properties. Kojic acid is very effective in fighting acne and pigment spots, but you may find that it can cause increased
skin irritation, especially if your skin type is dry and prone to sensitivity.
Because of its high potency, you can find kojic acid in concentrations of 1% or less in various formulations. Such a high percentage means that this active ingredient works effectively when applied to the skin (mainly hands and
face) occasionally and for short periods of time. Depending on the product formulation will determine how the kojic acid is applied to the skin. Some formulations, such as soaps, cleansers, and face washes, contain effective
amounts of acid and should be rinsed off the skin immediately. For products that are left on the skin for an extended period of time, you will find that kojic acid has limited effectiveness as it absorbs poorly in the lower
layers of the skin.
If you’re interested in learning more about kojic acid, here are some powerful facts about kojic acid that you can learn from insiders in the beauty industry.
What is Azelaic Acid?
Often confused with AHAs, this dicarboxylic acid is derived from grains such as barley, wheat, and rye. Azelaic acid has antibacterial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties and is an active ingredient in fighting acne,
uneven skin texture, hyperpigmentation, and more.
Azelaic Acid dissolves the top layer of skin and the buildup of dead skin cells, dirt, bacteria and other impurities. All of this leads to blemishes like blackheads, flaky plaques, and premature signs of aging, which are
exacerbated by the fact that fine lines and wrinkles become more noticeable.
Azelaic acid is considered one of the mildest acids and can be used effectively by those with sensitive skin. Azelaic acid also has unique properties that make it especially effective on people with darker skin tones. Powerful
acids fight pigmented spots on dark or dark skin without increasing the risk of sensitivity and irritation.
You can learn more about azelaic acid at The Beauty Insiders, where we have blog posts about its benefits, how it affects skin, and the best ingredients to use with it.
Can kojic acid and azelaic acid be used?
Yes, but only if they are properly applied to the skin. Both acids have similar pH levels, and both are more acidic and can alter the skin’s natural pH, causing irritation and weakening of the skin barrier, which can lead to
skin damage. Kojic and azelaic acids are used in a variety of ways. The following are examples of valid combinations.
Allow approximately 30 minutes between applications
Adhering to this time will allow the skin and pH to stabilize and avoid unwanted side effects or irritation. Ideally, I recommend using both at night, as this will limit exposure to further free radical damage such as UV rays,
pollution, and harsh weather.
Alternate dates for each acid
Alternating each acid throughout the day will give you the best results without the risk of irritation. Again, I recommend applying the acid to the skin at night for peace of mind and to avoid increased itching and irritation.
use them at different times of the day
You can use each acid at different times of the day instead of switching dates. Start using azelaic acid in your morning routine, and don’t forget to apply SPF for extra protection. This allows the mild acidity to work on the
skin throughout the day. You can then apply kojic acid at night, which is more effective but more likely to cause irritation when exposed to UV rays.
As with all skin care ingredients, it’s important to make sure your skin benefits from the new ingredients you add to your daily routine. Therefore, it is very important to consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new
ingredients or formulations.
Is Kojic Acid an AHA?
Yes, it is, although it’s not as well-known as glycolic or lactic acid. Kojic Acid works on the surface of the skin to remove dead skin cells, dirt and debris. In this way, new, vibrant skin is revealed, the complexion appears
radiant and healthy, and the skin barrier is strengthened, able to protect itself from further skin damage. It also penetrates the subdermis to unclog pores of excess sebum and bacterial buildup, contributing to the clarity and
overall health of the complexion.
The final property of kojic acid is that it inhibits the overproduction of melanin by amino acids, which leads to the darkening of melasma and hyperpigmentation. Kojic acid is a powerful whitening ingredient, but it can cause
increased irritation, especially after a chemical peel has occurred on the skin’s surface. So, as I’ve emphasized before, it’s important to apply SPF daily for extra sun protection.
There you can get more information on lesser known acids and their benefits for the skin. If you have any other questions, feel free to reach out to us on Instagram.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
