Skin Care Glossary: Dermatologist-Approved Terms for Beginners & Experts

Skin Care Terms and Vocabulary

You found the best skin care blogs to learn about skin care and a dictionary of skin care terms. We are the top skin care website that has information written by a dermatologist to educate you about skin care science. Whether you are a beginner at skin care, wanting to become an aesthetician, or just want to learn more about how to take care of your skin, you can find the definitions of terms used in skin care here. Look up any terms you need to know about skin care, and click on them to learn more.

You can also search for topics about skin care products and skin conditions in our skin care information library.

To learn about specific skin care ingredients, search in our skin care ingredient library.

You can also learn about skin care by following us on social media @skintypesolutions and watching our educational skin care videos on YouTube.

I’m a dermatologist who is a passionate about skin care. I have written many skin care books including 2 dermatology textbooks. I wrote (and continue writing to keep it current) this skin care library based on information from my bestselling skin care books. (The Skin Type Solution was a NY Times Bestselling Skin Care Book). So if you need to learn the meaning and definitions of words used in skin care- this is the best place to get an education on skin care for beginners.

Where To Learn Skin Care For Beginners

Read through this dictionary of terms to familiarize yourself with skin care terms and skin science words. Then Get started learning in our Skincare 101 blog.

We are so excited that you are ready to learn about skin care with us!

Skin Anatomy:

There are 2 main layers of the skin: The epidermis and the dermis. For details on the skin layers, click here.

Moisturizers affect the epidermis.

To have long lasting results, antiaging skin care ingredients need to be able to penetrate through the epidermis to the dermis.

Basic skin anatomy

Epidermis

The epidermis is the outermost layer of skin. It contains cells called keratinocytes because they make the protein keratin. It is made up of four or five sublayers (depending on the location on the body): the basal layer, spiny layer, granular layer, stratum lucidum, and stratum corneum. Each layer has a different function.

The main role of the epidermis is protection and helping skin stay hydrated.

Dermis

The dermis is the inner most layer of skin, located below the epidermis. It contains specialized skin cells called fibroblasts. This is where important skin components such as collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, and heparan sulfate are made. Only a select few topical ingredients are able to reach this layer of skin.

This dermis the skin layer that makes skin look young or old. Wrinkles are caused in the dermis.

Skin Terms for Skin Hydration Anatomy

What is the skin barrier?

Skin Barrier

The skin barrier is located in the stratum corneum, which is the uppermost layer of the epidermis. It is comprised of a lipid bilayer, which retains moisture and prevents allergens and irritants from entering the skin. When the skin barrier is damaged, the skin becomes dry, dehydrated, and susceptible to irritation and inflammation.

Stratum Corneum

The stratum corneum (SC) is the uppermost layer of the epidermis. It used to be called the dead layer of skin cells but we now know it has an important protective role against dehydration and damage from sun, and things that cause skin irritation and skin allergy.

This is where the skin barrier is located. There are 15 to 40 layers of keratinocyte skin cells in the stratum corneum, each arranged like a brick wall. The “mortar” between the skin cell “bricks” is the lipid bilayer (2 rows of fats) that makes up the skin barrier.

This is also the layer that you exfoliate away with facial scrubs and peels.

Kinds of skin cells

Skin Cells

What are skin cells called?

The skin is made up of many types of cells. Keratinocytes are in the epidermis, while fibroblasts are in the dermis. Melanocytes and immune cells move around in the epidermis and dermis.

Melanocyte

Melanocytes are specialized skin cells that produce melanin, the pigment that gives your skin its color. All humans have the same number of melanocytes, but the amount of melanin that these cells produce can vary from person to person which gives us a variety of skin tones. Melanocytes are located in both the epidermis and the dermis. When the melanocytes make too much color, this is called hyperpigmentation. They are stimulated to make color by light, heat, inflammation, hormones, stress, and certain medications.

Keratinocyte

Keratinocytes are the skin cells that make up almost all of the cells located in the epidermis. These cells are created in the basal layer and work their way upward to the epidermis, pushing old skin cells up and out of the way. In the epidermis, the old cells flake off and are replaced by the new keratinocytes. Keratinocytes product the structural protein keratin.

Keratin- the main protein in the epidermis

A structural protein made in the epidermal keratinocytes. Found in the epidermis, hair and nails. This is the substance that clogs pores and causes comedones (Black heads and white heads). The cells in the epidermis make keratin- this is why they are called keratinocytes and the process of cells maturing in the epidermis is called keratinization because each layer of cells in the epidermis makes different kinds of keratin.

Fibroblast

Fibroblasts are specialized cells located in the dermis layer of skin. They are responsible for producing collagen, hyaluronic acid, and elastin. They can move around in the dermis and play an important role in skin thickness, skin aging and wound healing.

hydrophobic vs hydrophilic

Skin Care Product Terms and Vocabulary

Lipophilic-

Stands for “fat loving”. Molecules that are not polar prefer to surround themselves with lipids and repel water. Lipophilic ingredients such as Vitamin E enter the cell membranes and work in these lipid environments while they avoid water environments. It is easier to get lipophilic ingredients into the skin. They are found in moisturizers and oils.

Hydrophilic

Stands for “water loving”. Polar molecules bind water. The interior of the skin cell has water, so hydrophilic ingredients like Vitamin C work inside the cells. Hydrophilic ingredients are found in toners and serums.

categories of skin care ingredients

Ingredient Categories:

Antioxidants

Antioxidants are molecules that donate an electron in order to neutralize harmful free radicals. Antioxidant polyphenols are naturally found in many plants, including berries, green tea, and ginger. Antioxidants in skincare can prevent inflammation, protect skin from pollution, and reduce signs of skin aging.

Anti-inflammatories

Anti-inflammatory ingredients can deactivate one or more of the many inflammatory pathways that lead to inflammation.

Inflammation always has dilated blood vessels (capillaries) which causes skin redness. In some cases of inflammation, the capillaries become leaky and leak water into the surrounding skin causing swelling, This may lead to hives, itching and rashes depending on which inflammatory pathways are turned on.

Skin Lighteners

Skin lighteners are a group of skincare ingredients that even skin tone and lighten skin. They may be called skin brighteners.

They work by one or more of the following ways:

block production of melanin

block transfer of melanosomes from the melanocyte to the keratinocyte

or increase exfoliation

Tyrosinase inhibitors

Tyrosinase is the enzyme necessary to produce the pigment melanin. Tyrosinase inhibitors block this enzyme and prevent the production of melanin. There are many different tyrosinase inhibitors used to treat skin pigmentation problems, such as hydroquinone, resorcinol, vitamin C, arbutin and kojic acid.

PAR-2 blockers

Proteinase-activated receptor 2 (PAR-2) is located in the connection between keratinocytes and melanocytes. It functions as a doorway to allow melanin laden melasomes to enter into the keratinocyte after being produced by melanocytes. PAR-2 blockers prevent melanin from entering keratinocytes. Examples include niacinamide and proteins found in soy.

Exfoliants

The skin’s natural exfoliation process is called desquamation. When natural desquamation is not enough, exfoliants can be used to increase exfoliation. There are two types of exfoliants: chemical and mechanical. Chemical exfoliants use a low pH or enzymes to dissolve and loosen proteins attachments between skin cells. Mechanical exfoliants use friction to rub dead skin cells off of the surface of the skin.

Skin Care Routines

The best way to design a skin care routine is by the Baumann Skin Type. There are 16 Baumann Skin Types based on 4 main skin concerns that need to be considered when building a skin care routine.

The step order of the skin care routine matters.

To learn the basics of skin care routines click here.

To find out your Baumann Skin Type- take the quiz and start learning about your skin’s issues.

Take the Quiz

the right start for your skin care journey

The Right Start For Your Skin Care

Now that you have some basic skin care terminology, browse our skin care library and enjoy going down different rabbit holes of learning. I suggest learning first about your skin type and go from there. Once you take the quiz watch for educational emails that will tell you all about your skin type, what types of products to use, and how to know if they are working.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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