The Science of Cocoa Butter in Skincare
Cocoa butter is a great ingredient for treating dry and resistant skin. It has anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, antioxidant, and UV protection properties.
If it is not processed for use in cosmetic formulations, it dries to a solid, buttery substance.
This ingredient is highly comedogenic and can cause acne on sensitive skin if not washed off thoroughly with a cleanser.
Despite this drawback, cocoa butter has many interesting uses in skincare.
To find out if cocoa butter is right for your skin type, take our skincare test. Ask your Baumann skin type and get free personalized skincare advice!
What is cocoa butter made of?
Cocoa butter is a thick oil that consists mainly of saturated fatty acids such as palmitic and stearic acid. It also contains small amounts of linoleic, alpha-linolenic, and oleic acid.
Palmitic and stearic acid are highly comedogenic saturated fats that can easily clog the pores of sensitive skin.
In dry, stretchy skin, its ability to retain moisture and repair the skin barrier may not lead to acne.
In addition to lipids, this ingredient is also rich in various polyphenols, minerals, etc. (1.6)
The main components of cocoa butter include:
Caffeine – an antioxidant and vasoconstrictor. (5)
Catechins – UV protection and antioxidant effects. (2)
Flavanols – a class of polyphenols found in many plants such as green tea.
Theobromine – a methylxanthine similar to caffeine. (3)
Vitamin E – one of the most studied antioxidants in the field of skin care. (4)
Benefits for the skin
If cocoa butter is suitable for your skin type, it can provide you with anti-inflammatory, moisturizing and sun protection benefits.
If you are not prone to acne and have dry, less resistant skin (Bauman), then this ingredient can be a good addition to your moisturizer.
When used on the arms and legs, there is no great risk of acne, so cocoa butter can be used in body moisturizers without the risk of acne in most cases.
Is cocoa butter useful for skin care?
Is cocoa butter good for the skin?
Cocoa butter has some beneficial properties for skin care, but only for dry, resistant skin.
For dry, resistant skin, this ingredient can reduce inflammation, repair the skin barrier, and lock in moisture due to its thick, occlusive texture.
It also contains antioxidants and UV protection, making it suitable for preventing and treating sunburn.
Even if you don’t use cocoa butter on acne-prone areas of your body, it’s still a good choice.
For oily or sensitive skin, cocoa butter contains high concentrations of comedogenic fatty acids, which are known to clog the pores of acne-prone skin. (7)
While it provides excellent moisturization and has some antioxidant properties, it’s not suitable for most skin types.
Is it safe?
Organizations such as the Environmental Working Group (EWG) consider cocoa butter safe for use in cosmetics, but more research is needed on this ingredient.
Surprisingly, there is little research on the use of this ingredient in cosmetics, but it is known to clog pores due to its comedogenic fatty acids, making it unsuitable for sensitive, oily skin.
Additionally, overhydration can cause changes in the natural microbiome of the face, which can trigger various types of acne, including cysts.
The Role of Cocoa Butter in Skin Care and Acne
Cocoa Butter and Acne
Cocoa butter is highly comedogenic and can clog the pores of acne-prone skin.
We do not recommend using this ingredient to treat acne, as it and other comedogenic ingredients will only make acne worse.
Instead of using cocoa butter to treat acne, use cleansers, scrubs, and other products specifically designed to treat acne.
On our website, you’ll find some common ingredients that are often beneficial in acne treatment:
Benzoyl peroxide
Glycolic acid
Retinoids
Salicylic acid
Raw cocoa butter
If you find cocoa butter in a skin care product, it is usually raw cocoa butter.
Cocoa butter is typically obtained during the chocolate production process by subjecting fermented cocoa beans to pressure treatment and various other mechanical extraction processes. (6)
It is not a synthetic ingredient and is not typically heated to the point of denaturing its beneficial enzymes in skin care.
Cocoa Butter in Skin Care for Inflammation
If Inflammation is a concern
Cocoa butter is an excellent anti-inflammatory for dry, resistant skin.
Cocoa butter contains some unsaturated fatty acids, such as linoleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid, which can regenerate the skin barrier. (1,6,7)
The antioxidants in cocoa butter also help reduce inflammation caused by oxidative stress.
Skin conditions with dry and irritated skin barriers, such as B. eczema, can benefit from the occlusive, anti-inflammatory effects of this ingredient.
If you need an anti-inflammatory but are prone to acne, check out this list of anti-inflammatory skin care ingredients!
Anti-Aging
Cocoa butter contains considerable amounts of antioxidants such as various polyphenols, vitamin E, caffeine, and more. (1) Antioxidants are essential for eliminating free radicals from the skin.
Free radicals can cause genetic damage to skin cells, leading to a variety of conditions such as sunburn, wrinkles, and skin cancer. (8)
In addition to binding free radicals, certain components of cocoa butter have been shown to absorb UV rays (2,3,6).
Cocoa butter alone isn’t enough to protect your skin from aging. Find a complete list of anti-aging ingredients in this gallery!
Best Cocoa Butter Skin Creams
Best Cocoa Butter Creams
Cocoa butter is most commonly used in skin care products as a thick, occlusive moisturizer for dry, resistant skin.
If you’re looking for an effective moisturizer with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that’s non-comedogenic, consider the following cocoa butter creams:
Other Cocoa Butter Products
In addition to creams, there is also a range of masks, sunscreens and other interesting cocoa butter products that might be suitable for dry, resistant skin!
Be sure to take our skin type test to avoid buying products that are not suitable for your face shape.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
