How Skincare Tackles Keratosis Pilaris Bumps and Dryness

The Science of Keratosis Pilaris (Chicken Skin): Causes, Treatments, and Skincare Solutions

Keratosis pilaris (KP), often casually referred to as “chicken skin,” is a widespread yet harmless dermatological condition that affects millions of individuals worldwide.

While not medically serious or contagious, its rough texture and patchy appearance can cause considerable aesthetic concern, especially during adolescence and young adulthood.

This guide will explore the underlying science of KP, review the most effective treatments, and offer expert-backed recommendations for exfoliating and moisturizing products.

Whether you’re a teenager struggling with this condition for the first time or an adult seeking long-term solutions, this article aims to help you understand and manage KP with confidence.

What Is Keratosis Pilaris?

Keratosis pilaris is a common skin condition caused by an overproduction of keratin, a structural protein that helps protect the skin from environmental damage.

In people with KP, excess keratin builds up within the hair follicles, forming tiny, hard bumps that resemble goosebumps or plucked chicken skin.

These bumps are often flesh-colored, red, or white, and they typically appear on areas like the upper arms, thighs, cheeks, and buttocks.

Quick Facts:

Prevalence: Affects up to 50-80% of adolescents and approximately 40% of adults.

Symptoms: Rough, dry patches of skin, often accompanied by tiny, painless bumps.

Common areas: Upper arms, thighs, cheeks, buttocks.

Not contagious: KP is not caused by bacteria or fungus and cannot be transmitted.

Genetic component: KP tends to run in families and is linked to other dry skin conditions, such as eczema and ichthyosis.

What Causes Keratosis Pilaris?

The exact cause of keratosis pilaris is not fully understood, but dermatologists agree that it is linked to genetic and environmental factors.

The condition is believed to be a result of hyperkeratinization, where the body produces too much keratin that then plugs the hair follicles, creating a rough texture.

Contributing Factors:

Genetics: KP is often inherited in an autosomal dominant fashion, meaning only one parent needs to pass on the gene for a child to be affected.

Hormonal changes: Adolescents, particularly during puberty, may experience an increase in KP due to fluctuating hormone levels.

Dry climate or cold weather: Lack of humidity can worsen KP symptoms by increasing skin dryness.

Underlying skin conditions: Individuals with atopic dermatitis or ichthyosis vulgaris are more likely to develop KP.

Is Keratosis Pilaris Dangerous?

No, keratosis pilaris is not dangerous or harmful to your health.

It is purely cosmetic and usually does not require medical treatment unless the affected individual feels self-conscious or experiences discomfort.

While some people experience mild itching or redness, most cases are asymptomatic.

Despite its harmless nature, many people seek treatment for KP due to concerns about appearance, especially during warmer months when more skin is exposed.

How to Treat Keratosis Pilaris

There is no permanent cure for keratosis pilaris, but with regular maintenance and the right combination of skincare products, it can be significantly improved.

Treatment typically involves two main strategies:

Exfoliation – Removing excess keratin and dead skin cells from the skin’s surface.

Moisturization – Replenishing hydration to keep skin soft and prevent further buildup.

Exfoliating Ingredients That Help With KP

Exfoliation is the first step in smoothing out rough KP-prone skin. This process helps dissolve or remove the keratin plugs and improve skin texture.

1. Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

AHAs are water-soluble acids derived from fruits and milk. They work by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to slough off easily.

Glycolic Acid: Penetrates deeply to dissolve keratin and reveal smoother skin beneath.

Lactic Acid: Hydrates while exfoliating, making it ideal for those with dry, sensitive skin.

Mandelic Acid: A gentle, less irritating option derived from almonds, suitable for sensitive skin types.

2. Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

BHAs are oil-soluble acids that can penetrate deeper into the pores.

Salicylic Acid: Excellent for oily or acne-prone skin, salicylic acid exfoliates inside the pores and reduces inflammation.

3. Enzymatic Exfoliants

Natural fruit enzymes can offer gentle, non-abrasive exfoliation for sensitive skin.

Papain (Papaya enzyme): Helps break down the proteins in dead skin.

Bromelain (Pineapple enzyme): Offers mild keratolytic action with anti-inflammatory benefits.

4. Physical Exfoliants

These mechanically slough away dead skin but should be used with caution.

Jojoba beads: Spherical and non-abrasive, ideal for gentle use.

Microfiber cloths: Effective when paired with a creamy cleanser, especially for facial KP.

Moisturizing Ingredients for Keratosis Pilaris

After exfoliating, it’s essential to follow up with a rich, hydrating moisturizer to protect the skin and maintain results.

1. Urea

Urea is a keratolytic agent that both exfoliates and hydrates. At concentrations above 10%, it helps break down hardened keratin and improve moisture retention.

2. AHAs in Moisturizers

Some moisturizers combine AHAs (like lactic acid or glycolic acid) with emollients, providing gentle exfoliation alongside deep hydration.

3. Ceramides

Ceramides are lipid molecules naturally found in the skin that help repair and strengthen the skin barrier, crucial for keeping moisture in and irritants out.

4. Natural Oils and Butters

Coconut Oil: Moisturizes and has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.

Shea Butter: Rich in vitamins A and E, it’s a nourishing emollient that softens skin texture over time.

5. Other Humectants

Hyaluronic Acid: Draws water into the skin, plumping and hydrating without greasiness.

Glycerin: A highly effective humectant that binds moisture to the skin.

Professional Treatments for Stubborn KP

For individuals who do not see improvement with at-home care, professional dermatologic treatments may provide more dramatic results:

1. Chemical Peels

Professional-grade peels using glycolic or salicylic acid can deeply exfoliate and improve skin texture.

2. Microdermabrasion and Dermabrasion

These mechanical exfoliation methods remove the outer layers of dead skin to smooth out the skin surface.

3. Laser Therapy

Fractional lasers and blue light therapy can reduce inflammation and redness, especially in severe cases.

Managing Keratosis Pilaris Long Term

KP often improves with age, and many people notice reduced symptoms in adulthood. However, regular care is required to keep it under control.

Daily Routine for KP Management:

Cleanse: Use a gentle, non-stripping cleanser.

Exfoliate: 2–3 times a week using a chemical or enzymatic exfoliant.

Moisturize: Daily, ideally right after showering.

Protect: Use sunscreen daily, as AHAs and BHAs can increase sun sensitivity.

Lifestyle Tips:

Avoid hot showers which strip moisture.

Use a humidifier in dry climates or winter months.

Wear breathable fabrics to reduce irritation from friction.

Is There a Cure for Keratosis Pilaris?

Unfortunately, there is no permanent cure for keratosis pilaris.

However, consistent treatment with exfoliants and moisturizers tailored to your skin type can significantly reduce its appearance and texture.

It’s also worth noting that many people grow out of KP, particularly after puberty. Still, flare-ups can happen during periods of hormonal change, stress, or weather shifts.

Final Thoughts: Living With and Treating KP

Keratosis pilaris may be a common and harmless condition, but for many, it has a real impact on self-confidence and body image.

Fortunately, it’s also one of the most treatable cosmetic skin conditions with the right approach.

Understanding your Baumann Skin Type can help you select products that are best suited to your skin’s unique needs.

Whether you prefer at-home solutions or professional dermatologic treatments, there are many effective ways to minimize the appearance of KP and enjoy smoother, clearer skin.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

Related Articles

Ad Blocker Detected