10 Dermatologist-Approved Tips to Repair Your Stratum Corneum (and Finally Beat Dry Skin)
If your foundation is clinging to dry patches or your skin feels tight no matter how much you moisturize, the issue might run deeper—literally.
When your stratum corneum, the outermost layer of your skin, is damaged, your skin can’t retain moisture effectively.
We asked celebrity estheticians Renée Rouleau and Shani Darden, along with board-certified dermatologist Dr. Carl Thornfeldt,
to share their best advice for fixing a compromised skin barrier and restoring that smooth, healthy glow.
Let’s dive into their expert tips on healing dry, flaky skin—starting from the barrier up.
1. Know the Difference Between Dry and Dehydrated Skin
Think your skin is dry? It might actually be dehydrated, which is a condition—not a skin type.
Dry skin lacks oil and is often genetic. It tends to be flaky, rough, and has tiny pores.
Dehydrated skin lacks water. It feels tight, dull, and can affect any skin type—even oily ones.
If your skin feels tight or looks dull after a long night (especially one involving alcohol), chances are it’s dehydrated.
But if you never get oily and see flaking and irritation often, you probably have dry skin that needs oil-based care.
2. Stop Over-Exfoliating
Too many actives, too much scrubbing, or using a cleansing brush daily? You’re likely harming your moisture barrier.
“Exfoliation compromises the skin’s protective barrier and causes inflammation,” explains Dr. Thornfeldt. Long-term inflammation leads to redness, sensitivity, and worsens dryness.
Still, some gentle exfoliation is good—especially to help products absorb. Just skip gritty scrubs and opt for low-strength chemical exfoliants like glycolic or lactic acid 1–2 times per week.
🌿 Try: Kinship’s gentle AHA pads, which exfoliate while helping maintain your barrier with plant-based probiotics.
3. Use a Sulfate-Free Cleanser
Foamy cleansers might feel satisfying, but they can strip your skin of its natural oils—especially if they contain sulfates like sodium lauryl sulfate or ammonium laureth sulfate.
“These cleansers break down the skin’s lipid barrier,” says Rouleau. This makes skin more vulnerable to environmental damage like UV rays and pollution.
Switch to a sulfate-free, hydrating cleanser that supports your skin’s oils rather than stripping them.
🧴 Try: Pacifica Vegan Ceramide Cleanser, formulated without sulfates and infused with hyaluronic acid.
4. Apply Products Immediately After Cleansing
Timing matters. Once you wash your face, moisture starts to evaporate within 60 seconds.
“Apply toner and moisturizer right away to seal in hydration,” says Rouleau. Opt for an alcohol-free toner to soothe and prep your skin before moisturizer.
Keeping your routine tight post-wash can reduce product usage—your skin stays more hydrated with less effort.
5. Don’t Skip Night Cream
At night, your skin switches from protection to repair mode. That’s when your products can work their hardest.
Dr. Thornfeldt explains that skin permeability increases at night, allowing deeper absorption of actives.
You don’t need a fancy “night cream”—just a moisturizer without SPF that matches your skin type. Look for ceramides, peptides, and soothing botanicals.
🌸 Try: Ranavat’s Eternal Reign Moisturizer, rich in lotus and poppy seed to nourish overnight.
6. Use a Humidifier
It’s not just about what you put on your skin—it’s also about the air around you. Dry air (especially in winter or AC-heavy environments) sucks moisture from your skin.
“Use a humidifier to add moisture back into your space,” recommends Darden.
💧 Pro tip: Place one by your bed to help your skin stay hydrated overnight.
Try: Dyson’s humidifier, which also purifies air for an added skin-health bonus.
7. Add Nourishing Oils
Your skin barrier needs lipids like ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol to stay strong.
Dr. Thornfeldt notes that dry skin doesn’t produce enough oil naturally, so applying only water-based products is ineffective. You need to replenish oils topically to restore barrier function.
Choose facial oils that mimic natural skin lipids—like jojoba, rosehip, or squalane. Don’t fear breakouts: pure, well-formulated oils don’t clog pores.
8. Wear Sunscreen Daily (Yes, Even Indoors)
Sun exposure worsens dry skin by damaging the moisture barrier and creating micro-cracks that lead to flaking, irritation, and faster aging.
Even if you’re working from home, UVA rays can penetrate windows. Use a hydrating sunscreen daily to protect and moisturize in one step.
🌞 Try: J.Lo Beauty’s That Big Screen SPF 30, which doubles as a glowy, nourishing face cream.
9. Take Short, Warm (Not Hot) Showers
Hot water feels relaxing—but it’s one of the worst things for dry skin.
It strips away essential oils and weakens the skin barrier, leaving skin dry and itchy. Lukewarm water is much gentler and still gets the job done.
Bonus: Cooler showers also help reduce inflammation and redness.
10. Try Home Remedies That Work
You don’t need fancy skincare to start repairing your barrier. Some DIY solutions can offer quick relief:
Avocado masks: Rich in fatty acids to nourish and calm skin
Milk baths: Lactic acid helps exfoliate gently while hydrating
Plant-based butters: Shea or mango butter deeply moisturize and soften
Jojoba oil: Mimics your skin’s own sebum and is highly barrier-friendly
Use these to supplement your routine when your skin feels tight, flaky, or just needs a hydration reset.
Final Thoughts: Repair Your Barrier, Rebuild Your Glow
If your skin feels chronically dry, tight, or irritated, your stratum corneum is likely compromised. The good news? With a little consistency and the right care, you can bring your skin barrier back to life.
Focus on gentle, hydrating ingredients, avoid over-cleansing or over-exfoliating, and always protect your skin with SPF—even on cloudy days.
Your skin will thank you—with fewer flakes, more glow, and a stronger, healthier barrier.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
