Adapalene vs Retinol: A Dermatologist’s Complete Guide
As a dermatologist, I often discuss retinoids with my patients. Retinoids are a powerful class of skincare ingredients used for acne, aging signs, and pigmentation. Two popular options are adapalene and retinol.
Both adapalene and retinol are Vitamin A derivatives that promote skin cell turnover and collagen production. They work to refresh your skin but differ in potency, availability, and how they interact with your skin.
If you’re unsure which one suits your skin, I recommend taking a personalized skin type quiz that I use in my clinic. This helps tailor skincare to your individual needs.
What Are Adapalene and Retinol?
Adapalene is a synthetic retinoid designed specifically to treat acne. You may recognize it from brand names like Differin or products like La Roche-Posay Effaclar.
It’s also in combination acne treatments with ingredients like benzoyl peroxide.
Retinol is a natural form of Vitamin A found in many over-the-counter anti-aging products. It is converted by your skin into retinoic acid, the active form that stimulates skin renewal.
Many brands sell retinol products, making it widely accessible.
How Do They Work Differently?
Adapalene works by binding selectively to certain retinoic acid receptors in your skin called RAR beta and gamma. This targeting normalizes skin cell turnover and reduces clogged pores that cause acne.
Retinol, in contrast, is a precursor to retinoic acid. It must first convert into retinoic acid, which then binds to all three retinoic acid receptors (alpha, beta, gamma).
This broader activation affects your skin differently and is generally gentler but less potent.
Because of this conversion step, retinol acts slower but with fewer irritations. Adapalene’s targeted approach gives it strong anti-acne effects with a favorable irritation profile.
Adapalene for Acne: Why It’s So Effective
Adapalene shines as a treatment for acne. It helps prevent the formation of microcomedones, tiny clogged pores that start every pimple. Its anti-inflammatory action soothes redness and swelling.
Clinical trials show adapalene performs as well as prescription tretinoin for acne, but with less skin irritation. Because of this, the FDA has approved adapalene for acne treatment, unlike retinol.
If you struggle with persistent acne, adapalene is often the preferred first-line retinoid. It’s available over the counter and by prescription, making it accessible for many.
Retinol and Skin Aging: The Anti-Aging Workhorse
While adapalene is mainly for acne, retinol is widely used for signs of aging. Retinol’s ability to convert to retinoic acid means it penetrates deep and stimulates collagen production.
This collagen boost helps reduce fine lines, improve skin texture, and brighten dull skin. Retinol is commonly found in anti-aging serums and creams for these reasons.
Though tretinoin is FDA-approved for aging, neither adapalene nor retinol has this official label. Yet, retinol remains a staple in anti-aging skincare due to its efficacy and gentler nature.
Treating Hyperpigmentation: Which Works Best?
Both adapalene and retinol accelerate skin cell turnover, which helps fade dark spots and even out skin tone. This makes them useful for hyperpigmentation conditions like melasma.
Retinol’s broader receptor activation may make it slightly more effective for brightening skin and improving discoloration over time.
For best results, combine either retinoid with ingredients that inhibit melanin production, such as vitamin C or hydroquinone.
What About Scars?
There is limited research comparing adapalene and retinol’s effects on scars. However, studies suggest adapalene can help improve acne scars by promoting skin renewal and reducing inflammation.
Retinol may also help due to its conversion to tretinoin, which has known scar-fading properties, but direct evidence is lacking.
Among retinoids, tazarotene is often considered most effective for scars but can be more irritating.
If scars are your primary concern, adapalene might be a better choice over retinol.
Comparing Adapalene and Retinol: Key Differences
The most notable difference lies in their strength and receptor targeting. Adapalene’s selective binding to RAR beta and gamma makes it particularly effective against acne.
Retinol’s slower conversion and broad receptor activity mean it is milder and more often used for aging and pigmentation. It’s less potent for acne compared to adapalene or prescription tretinoin.
Both are well tolerated but adapalene tends to cause less irritation than tretinoin, making it a favorite for acne treatment.
Availability and Accessibility
Adapalene is unique because it’s FDA-approved for acne and available both over the counter and by prescription. Many popular acne products now include adapalene due to its safety and efficacy.
Retinol is found in countless anti-aging products available without prescription. It’s often the first choice for people wanting to improve skin texture and fight wrinkles without medical supervision.
Side Effects: What to Expect
Both adapalene and retinol can cause mild side effects like dryness, redness, peeling, and stinging, especially during the first few weeks of use. This is your skin adjusting to increased cell turnover.
With consistent use, these effects tend to diminish as your skin builds tolerance.
To reduce irritation, use gentle cleansers and moisturizers suited for your skin type, ideally based on a dermatologist’s recommendation.
Always apply retinoids at night and use broad-spectrum sunscreen daily. Retinoids can increase sun sensitivity, and sun protection is key for safe, effective results.
How to Choose Between Adapalene and Retinol?
If acne is your main concern, adapalene is generally the better choice due to its targeted action and FDA approval. It helps clear existing acne and prevent new breakouts with fewer side effects.
If your goals are anti-aging or fading dark spots, retinol may be more suitable. Its gentler nature makes it easier for sensitive skin and is ideal for improving texture and tone over time.
Some people benefit from using both at different times or combining them with other treatments under professional guidance.
Final Thoughts: Personalized Skin Care is Key
Both adapalene and retinol are valuable tools in your skincare arsenal. Understanding their differences helps you choose the right product for your skin concerns and tolerance.
If you want to optimize your routine, consider consulting a dermatologist or taking a professional skin type quiz. The right choice depends on your skin type, goals, and lifestyle.
When used properly, both adapalene and retinol can transform your skin, helping you achieve a clearer, smoother, and more youthful complexion.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
