Alpha Arbutin and Beta Arbutin in Skin Care Products: A Comparison and Benefits

Alpha Arbutin and Beta Arbutin in Skin Care Products

The two types of arbutin, alpha arbutin and beta arbutin, are cosmeceutical ingredients in skin care products that are tyrosinase inhibitors used to treat hyperpigmentation. Arbutin serums and arbutin creams are popular skin care products used to lighten dark spots on the skin, especially when using hydroquinone is undesirable. Compounding pharmacies may make a skin lightening product that has hydroquinone and arbutin together, but you will no longer see hydroquinone available without a prescription.

Arbutin is one of the most commonly used skin care ingredients to lighten skin that is available over the counter without a prescription.

Alpha Arbutin vs Beta Arbutin

There are two forms of arbutin found in skincare. They have the same chemical structure but different rotational configurations which gives them slightly different effects on melanin production.

Alpha arbutin (4-hydroxyphenyl alpha-glucopyranoside)-

Does not occur naturally so will not be found in natural or organic skin care products

Is synthetic

Is a stronger tyrosinase blocker than the beta arbutin form

Studies have demonstrated that synthetic α-arbutin is 10 times more effective than natural arbutin.[6]

Beta arbutin (4-hydroxyphenyl beta-glucopyranoside)-

Occurs naturally in plants.

Found in the dry leaves of bearberry, cranberry, blueberry, wheat, and other plants.[1],[2]

This is the form used in natural and organic skin care creams and serum.

berries

Arbutin is primarily used for depigmenting, or skin lightening, but also can serve as a protective agent against the sun.

Arbutin vs Hydroquinone

Arbutin is structurally very similar to hydroquinone

Arbutin is hydroquinone bound to a sugar molecule

Both hydroquinone and both forms of arbutin block tyrosinase activity which leads to less production of skin pigment.

If you are allergic to hydroquinone, you may also be allergic to arbutin but it is less likely

Arbutin has less melanocytotoxicity than hydroquinone and less skin irritation.

Arbutin does not cause ochronosis like hydroquinone can

Arbutin Benefits:

Arbutin has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin lightening properties.[3],[4] While naturally occurring beta arbutin has garnered attention in the cosmetic and therapeutic realms as an alternative to HQ, evidence suggests that a synthetic version of the botanical agent called alpha arbutin is even more effective.

Anti-inflammatory

Antioxidant

Skin Lightening

What is Arbutin Used For:

Its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and, in particular, anti-tyrosinase properties make it useful in skincare regimens designed to lighten skin. This is because inflammation can lead to hyperpigmentation so soothing the skin helps prevent dark spots on the skin.

Both forms of arbutin are used to treat hyperpigmentation skin problems such as:

Melasma

Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)

Safety

Arbutin is thought to be a safe alternative to HQ according to the US FDA. It is allowed in cosmetic products while hydroquinone is not. However, it has been banned for safety reasons in European Union, Japan, Australia, and some African countries due to its similarity in chemical structure to hydroquinone. If you have an allergy to hydroquinone, you should avoid arbutin.

Side effects of arbutin include stinging and allergic dermatitis. The Environmental Working Group (EWG) gives arbutin a 1 rating (safe).

Pregnancy

Arbutin is a glycosylated hydroquinone derivative. Unlike hydroquinone, which is a potent depigmenting agent with higher risks, arbutin releases hydroquinone slowly and in much smaller amounts, reducing potential toxicity. When applied topically, arbutin has low systemic absorption, meaning it does not significantly enter the bloodstream and therefore poses minimal risk to the fetus. There are no known studies indicating teratogenic (birth defect-causing) effects of arbutin when used topically. Its safety profile is generally considered acceptable, especially in comparison to other more aggressive skin-lightening agents.

Arbutin is recommended for the following Baumann Skin Types:

DRPT, DRPW, DSPT, DSPW, ORPT, ORPW, OSPT, OSPW

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The Best Skin Care Products with alpha Arbutin and beta Arbutin

Although it is much better to shop by your Baumann Skin Type, you can find the best arbutin serums and creams here.

Find the best products with arbutin such as Arbutin serums and creams

Where does α-arbutin or β-arbutin come from?

The source of arbutin in skin care differs. Alpha arbutin is made in the laboratory. Beta arbutin is primarily extracted from the bearberry plant (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) but is also found in blueberry, cranberry, wheat, and other plants. Other arbutin derivatives, such as deoxyarbutin, are synthesized by chemical and enzymatic methods.[5]

hydroquinone and arbutin

Chemistry of Arbutin in Skin Care Products:

Arbutin is structurally very similar to hydroquinone. They both have benzene rings.

Arbutin is hydroquinone bound to a sugar molecule

Arbutin is either one of these:

α–D glucopyranoside

β-D glucopyranoside

Environmental Impact of Arbutin in Skin Care

It is not well established what impact the cultivation of arbutin sources has on the environment. Similarly, it is not yet known how the culling of plants containing arbutin for the processing of synthetic forms of the ingredient affects the environment. There are no known environmental concerns.

Product Formulation Considerations

Skin penetration is an issue with many ingredients including arbutin. Various methods have been used to enhance skin penetration.[7]

Arbutin in Skin Care Routines: Regimen Design Considerations

The hydrophilic nature of arbutin limits penetration into human skin. Arbutin should be used with penetration enhancing ingredients when possible such as hyaluronic acid and oleic acid. When designing a skin care routine, care should be taken to design the order of steps in the routine to increase absorption of arbutin. Saturated fatty acids in moisturizers may decrease effectiveness of arbutin, so look for moisturizers with unsaturated fatty acids like linoleic acid.

Evidence- Based Research

Several clinical studies have indicated that arbutin used in combination with another depigmenting agent or therapy to treat melasma or other skin hyperpigmentation conditions is as effective as monotherapy while less likely to induce side effects.[8]

In other words: arbutin works bets when combined with other skin lightening and whitening ingredients.

Bottom Line on Arbutin in Skin Care

Used traditionally in Japan, arbutin is one of the best skin whitening ingredients in the Unites States. It is less effective than hydroquinone but safer than HQ. Synthetic versions of arbutin compare with HQ in effectiveness, but natural arbutin is also effective especially when combined with other tyrosinase inhibitors. Arbutin is found in many skin care products to treat melasma, skin aging, and to protect the skin from the damage from sun exposure.

Is Arbutin right for you? You need to take the skin care quiz to find out.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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