Argiriline in Skin Care Products
Argiriline
Argiriline is one of the most popular skin care peptides because it was originally advertised to be better than Botox.
Argiriline has been shown to have short term skin benefits and has interesting effects on cells in the laboratory which is why it has been compared to Botox.
However, when used in face creams and serums, argiriline cannot permeate the skin layers to reach the muscle and relax muscles like Botox can -so Argiriline in no way is a replacement for Botox injections.
How does Argiriline work on skin? Is it Effective?
This cosmeceutical peptide works by copying another molecule called SNAP-25 and breaks up a group of molecules called the SNARE complex.
SNAP-25 in the SNARE complex is the same target for Botulinum Toxin Type A (Botox, Dysport, Xeomin, Jeaveau, Daxxify).
Some companies used to say that skin care products with Argiriline are “Better than Botox” . (They actually got away with making that false claim by adding a question mark so that instead of a claim it was actually a question “Better than Botox?”. )
The problem with Argiriline and other peptides is that it does not penetrate deep enough into the skin’s layers to have an effect.
Studies on this peptide were done in cell cultures where skin penetration is not an issue.
Peptides do not absorb through the skin into the muscle to relax muscles the same way Botox does.
This is why Argiriline does not have the same benefits as Botox, Dysport and other forms of Botulinum Toxin Type A.(1)
Benefits of argiriline
Other names for Argiriline
Argiriline is also called Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-3.
Argiriline® is made up of these : Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH2.
This sequence includes multiple amino acids joined together by peptide bonds. The peptide begins with an acetyl group (Ac-) and ends with an amide group (-NH2), which are common modifications to peptides.
The structure of this molecule may also be stated like this: Acetyl-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH2 or Ac?EEMQRR?NH2.
Studies on Argiriline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8)
There are some studies that assessed Argiriline containing creams and their benefits.
One study (2) looked at ten women who used a topical ream with 10% acetyl hexapeptide-3 and compared it to a cream without Argiriline (called the vehicle).
They put the creams on the area around the eyes twice a day for 30 days.
The study did not say if the people doing the study or the women in the study knew which cream was which. If this were a blinded study, they would have stated that in the research publication. Not using a blinded research method allows bias to affect study results.
The scientists looked at the wrinkles on the women’s skin before and after using the creams. Women who used the cream with Argiriline had 30% fewer wrinkles than before.
But they also said that the women who used the vehicle cream had 10% fewer wrinkles than before.
It is not very clear if the difference between these two numbers is statistically significant, if they were the research publication would state that clearly because that sit h goal of research studies to show statistical significance.
The study also showed by looking at excised epidermis that acetyl hexapeptide-3 can go through the top layer of skin. But to get to the muscles where it could mess with the SNARE complex, it would also have to go through other layers of skin, which the study did not look at.
Another study (3) was conducted in 2015 on acetyl hexapeptide-3 with 40 female participants. It was not clear from the publication whether the participants and investigators were blinded.
The study cream or vehicle was applied twice daily by both groups to the forearm and face.
Both the active and the vehicle showed increased hydration. The reviscometer measurements of shear wave propagation showed a decrease in skin anisotropy, but only on the face, suggesting that the peptides increased skin firmness. There was no improvement in skin elasticity as measured with a cutometer.
The authors concluded that “acetyl hexapeptide-3 is an effective anti-aging compound,” but they did not consider the possibility that accumulated peptides on the skin’s surface could affect firmness without affecting the skin’s biology.
Peptides are known to coat the skin’s surface giving a feeling or firmness which disappears when the cream is washed off.
botox vs argiriline
A study (4) in 2017 examined a combination of two peptides (tripeptide-10-citrulline and acetyl hexapeptide-3) on 24 women to see if it could improve skin roughness. The participants were split into four groups: one group used both peptides, one group used only tripeptide-10-citrulline, one group used only acetyl hexapeptide-3, and the last group used a placebo. The study measured skin roughness and found no significant difference between the placebo group and the groups using the peptides after 20 and 40 days. However, after 60 days, there was a significant difference between the placebo group and the group using both peptides (including argiriline). The study suggested that the peptides can reduce TEWL (transepidermal water loss) by forming a protective film on the skin’s surface. However, the study did not consider wrinkle depth, only skin roughness, and the presentation of the data in the abstract was confusing and lacked transparency. Therefore, the study’s claim that the peptides can reduce wrinkle depth is questionable.
How does Argiriline compare to other antiaging skin care ingredients?
Argiriline is not as good as retinol, ascorbic acid, exosomes and growth factors to treat wrinkles.
Ingredients like argiriline are best used in addition to other ingredients for maximum effect.
Is Argiriline better than retinol?
NO, argiriline is not the best – retinol and retinoids are the best antiaging skin creams.
There are many types and strengths and must be used properly to prevent side effects.
But retinoids are worth using because studies have shown they treat many of the causes of wrinkles.
Argiriline does not treat any of the causes of skin aging.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
