Ask the Dermatologist 4 Lies You've Been Told About Acne

Ask Your Dermatologist: 4 Lies You’ve Been Told About Acne

If you suffer from acne, you’ve probably scoured the internet for the latest tips and tricks for clear skin. Sometimes the advice is useless, like rubbing toothpaste on blemishes or squirting salt water on your face. With so many different acne products on the market, it can be hard to tell which are legal and which are illegal.

With the help of Dr. Anthony Nuara, MD, FAAD, we’ll dispel some of the myths about acne treatments and causes, and tell you which products really help reduce and prevent acne breakouts.

What Causes Acne?

Acne is multifactorial, meaning it’s not caused by a single factor. What we know for sure is that acne spots form when pores become clogged with sebum (oil) and dead skin cells. This can appear as a blackhead or whitehead. Raised pimples form when the oil or dead skin cells become inflamed or infected by bacteria like Proteobacterium acnes.

But for those who regularly struggle with acne, what causes the excess oil, congestion, and inflammation? Here’s what science says:

Genetics: In a 20211 systematic review and meta-analysis, researchers found 60 genes associated with acne susceptibility. So if acne runs in your family, you may be troubled by it, too.

Hormones: Acne is often associated with teenagers for a reason: hormones. Hormonal fluctuations during adolescence can lead to increased sebum production and acne lesions, but fluctuations can also occur in adulthood. Women may suffer from acne at different times during their menstrual cycle or menopause. Men may struggle with acne if they have high testosterone levels or are taking hormone therapy.

Medications: Acne can also be a side effect of various medications, such as corticosteroids, lithium, vitamin B12, thyroid hormones, and antibiotics. 2

Lifestyle: This is a touchy subject. While stress, a poor diet, and lack of sleep don’t necessarily cause acne, they can trigger it in genetically susceptible people.

Now that you have a basic understanding of what causes acne, it’s time to correct some misconceptions. Here, four of the biggest acne myths debunked.

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Myth 1: Drinking water gets rid of acne

Water is undoubtedly good for you and your skin, but it has no real therapeutic properties other than helping you wash your face. While research suggests that consuming enough water can have a positive impact on the skin by increasing elasticity (which can slow signs of aging), there is not enough evidence to determine how this affects acne marks. 3

Myth 2: Only teenagers get acne

I wish this was true. Adults often get acne, especially middle-aged women and those approaching menopause due to the dramatic hormone fluctuations during this time. Adult men and women who are taking hormone replacement therapy or have higher testosterone levels may also experience acne.

Myth 3: Eating junk food is the cause of acne

There is some truth to this. Studies have shown that a diet high in carbohydrates4 and refined sugars can exacerbate acne. 5These types of foods can increase serum triglycerides and increase sebum production, which can lead to clogged pores. Whey protein is known to make acne worse in young people. 6

Myth 4: Acne means you should clean your face more often

While hygiene is important for keeping your skin healthy, there is a limit to what you can scrub off. In fact, washing too often or scrubbing too hard can irritate your skin and even worsen acne. A gentle cleanser is a better choice, but if you choose a cleanser with alpha and beta hydroxy acids to open up your pores, use it with caution as they can irritate your skin.

Best products for acne

Niacinamide and azelaic acid are two powerful ingredients to add to your daily skincare routine. These two multi-tasking ingredients are gentle enough to be used together and can help eliminate breakouts and prevent them altogether. Here’s how they compare:

Foundation Skincare’s 10% Niacinamide Lotion: Based on moisturizing hyaluronic acid, this product helps inhibit sebum production, control and prevent acne while soothing the inflammation and irritation that comes with breakouts. Niacinamide also boosts the skin’s immunity to infection, fades acne scars, and aids in DNA repair.

Foundation Skincare’s 14% Azelaic Acid Cream: This must-have day cream contains a potent medical concentration of azelaic acid, a beneficial yeast with antibacterial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties. It removes acne-causing bacteria from the skin, reduces inflammation, and fades pigmentation caused by acne scars. Azelaic acid is also good for hormonal acne because it blocks the increased sebum production caused by elevated testosterone levels.

Women who experience hormonal imbalances or suffer from acne that causes scarring should consult a licensed dermatologist for further advice and an appropriate treatment plan.

Finding an acne treatment can be overwhelming, but it doesn’t have to be. The next time someone tells you a weird new trick, be sure to ask for evidence to back up their claims. There are countless myths and misconceptions about what causes acne and how to treat it, but once you start using the right products, the path to clear skin and the skin itself will become clear.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.

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