Ask The Dermatologist: What Really is "Medical-Grade" Skincare and What Makes it Better?

Ask The Dermatologist: What Really is “Medical-Grade” Skincare and What Makes it Better?

When it comes to accessing quality skincare products with high concentrations of active ingredients like azelaic acid and retinol, many people see their dermatologists for a prescription. But “medical-grade” products with high concentrations are just as effective and can now be obtained over the counter.

Dr. Anthony Nuara, MD PhD FAAD is here to break down the benefits of “medical-grade” skincare, and why these products are more effective than most OTC alternatives.

What is Medical-Grade Skincare?

Medical-grade skincare products are made with higher concentrations of active ingredients to rival prescription products. These products target specific medical conditions and areas of concern, such as acne, rosacea, or hyperpigmentation. Many OTC skincare products contain low concentrations of active ingredients to be suitable for all skin types and avoid having to seek FDA approval. Medical-grade skincare products do not require FDA approval, but products should be tested for purity, labeled appropriately, and meet rigorous United States Pharmacopeia (USP) standards.

Ingredients & Formulation

As stated above, active ingredients in medical-grade products have higher concentrations than most OTC alternatives. This makes them more potent, but because their concentrations are still not as high as prescription skincare products, they also tend to carry fewer side effects.

In addition to having a higher concentration of the active ingredients, medical-grade skincare products also have the purest form of those ingredients. While some OTC skincare products fail to penetrate the epidermis, medical-grade products are designed to reach the deepest layers of the skin. Such products should be backed by research and formulated by medical professionals, including board-certified dermatologists and pharmacists.

Dermatologist-Recommended Skincare

In the past, highly-concentrated medical-grade products were only available with a prescription. But access has improved with a number of these high-quality products now being available to all.

Foundation Skincare products are formulated by a board-certified dermatologist, a chemist and a pharmacist with expertise in formulations and compounding. Each raw ingredient has been painstakingly sourced and verified by science to not just ensure the highest quality and efficacy without a prescription, but also to ensure the product is gentle enough for all skin types. Read on to find out more about how our medical-grade products compare to OTC products, how we ensure safety and quality assurance, and which products will address your specific skin concerns.

Product Customization & Personalization

When you visit a dermatologist, you can expect to leave with a personalized plan based on your specific needs. Most over-the-counter skincare brands leave it up to the consumer to diagnose their condition and figure out the best treatment plan for their concerns without personalized guidance along the way.

While Foundation Skincare does not customize products based on each customer, our collection is comprehensive enough to cover most skin issues, whether you’re hoping to slow the signs of premature aging or prevent acne breakouts. At the same time, our approach is designed to address skincare needs from the inside out with topical products and targeted supplements. All the products in the Foundation Skincare collection are also formulated to layer well with each other so that you can build a skincare regimen that meets your specific needs.

If you are ever unsure about what product to use, you can contact our Customer Support team for guidance.

Niacinamide Lotion 10%

• Renews dry, dull skin & texture

• Calms acne, minimizes flare-ups

• Improves inflammation & redness

Regular price$45

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Over-the-Counter vs Medical-Grade Skincare

To understand how medical-grade skincare compares to a standard over-the-counter product, consider our in-depth analysis of Foundation Skincare’s Azelaic Acid 14% Cream and The Ordinary Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension.

Both products aim to reduce acne and hyperpigmentation, but Foundation Skincare’s Azelaic Acid Cream contains a medical-grade concentration of 14%. This is crucial, as prescription products contain 15-20% of the active ingredient, and most research studies revolve around this higher concentration. It’s important to note that some people may be sensitive to a concentration of 20%, and experience dryness or irritation. FS Azelaic Acid 14% is potent enough to make a significant improvement in the skin’s condition without the higher risk of irritation. Even more, it contains soothing ingredients like aloe leaf juice and jojoba seed oil, which help to reduce inflammation.

In fact, FS Azelaic Acid 14% is so gentle, it can easily be layered with other products in the Foundation Skincare collection. If you’re fighting acne, you might want to pair this product with other medical-grade products like FS Niacinamide Lotion 10%, which balances sebum (oil production) to help control and prevent acne. If your main concern is hyperpigmentation, you may want to layer with FS Vitamin C Lotion 20%, another medical-grade formulation, which helps to block the action of an enzyme called tyrosinase to fade brown spots and acne scars.

The Ordinary Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension, on the other hand, should not be layered with products containing niacinamide, peptides, direct acids, or retinoids according to the manufacturers. The product is also silicone heavy, which may interfere with its ability to properly penetrate the skin.

Safety & Quality Assurance

In addition to being formulated by a board-certified dermatologist and pharmacist, Foundation Skincare products have been rigorously tested to ensure safety and efficacy. All Foundation Skincare products are made and filled in state-of-the-art GMP certified facilities in San Diego, California, in accordance with USP standards. And all products contain long standing proven ingredients that have been carefully sourced.

How to Choose Medical-Grade Skincare

Accessing medical-grade skincare is not as difficult as it used to be. To help you choose, look for dermatologist-formulated products with science-backed ingredients in concentrations that match or nearly match pharmaceutical products. Check to see if these ingredients are carefully sourced for purity and quality assurance and formulated in GMP certified facilities. All medical-grade products in the Foundation Skincare collection contain ingredients backed by clinical research:

FS Azelaic Acid 14% Cream: Uses a clinically-proven ingredient shown to reduce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and acne1

FS Vitamin C Lotion 20%: Brightens skin while increasing collagen production as shown in numerous studies2

FS Niacinamide Lotion 10%: Verified to control acne, fade hyperpigmentation, and increase ceramides for improved skin texture 3

FS Hyaluronic Acid Lotion: A powerful humectant proven to draws moisture in to plump skin and restore elasticity while helping to repair the skin barrier4

FS Night Renewal Cream with 2% Granactive Retinoid: Contains essential peptide growth factors and plant-based botanicals which have been shown to effectively visibly reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots, and sagging skin while accelerating cellular turnover5

FS Firming Neck Cream: Contains palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, which provides retinoid-like results, with less irritation6

Whether you are struggling with acne, premature aging, or hyperpigmentation, medical-grade skincare products offer a compelling alternative to prescription products. Explore more research on Foundation Skincare’s products and medical-grade skincare in the FS Journal.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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