Autophagy and Antiaging Skin Care Ingredients
Autophagy slows skin aging by removing old cell components that stimulate or cause aging. The ability of cells to perform autophagy decreases with age causing skin aging.(1,2)
Antiaging skincare products are beginning to try and increase autophagy to rejuvenate skin.
Autophagy Benefits for Skin
Increasing skin autophagy, especially of mitochondria, is a new way to slow skin aging. Many new ingredients are being developed for skin care products to reverse skin aging by increasing autophagy.
Autophagy (3) is the process of cell ‘eating themselves”. (4) In other words, cells break down old organelles and recycle them.
Autophagy serves the purpose of eliminating senescent cells, damaged organelles, proteins, and pathogens, as well as regulating apoptosis (programmed cell death), cell differentiation, immunity, and inflammation.
Skin Care Ingredients
Cosmetic ingredients that increase autophagy in skin are:
Crepidiastrum Denticulatum Extract
Exosomes
Heptasodium hexacarboxymethyl dipeptide-12 ( Aquatide™)
Melatonin
Resveratrol
Saururus Chinensis
The best skincare ingredients to treat skin aging depends upon what your Baumann Skin Type® is.
Our advice is to take the skin care quiz, find out your skin type, and our dermatologists will give you specific skin care routine recommendations.
These may include skin care ingredients that increase autophagy.
Take the Quiz
Skin Care Products
Many new skin care products are being developed to help increase autophagy and decrease the number of senescent cells. Examples of products that contain autophagy increasing ingredients are shown below.
The Science Of Autophagy
The science of aging skin is well understood. Autophagy has been newly discovered as an important part of the skin aging process.
Autophagy is the process by which lysosomes fuse with a cellular organelle and digest it. This recycles the cellular components.
Autophagy regulates extracellular matrix (ECM) metabolism by affecting matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs).
Blocking autophagy leads to an increase in MMPs and an increase in collagen breakdown. TGF-β is a growth factor involved in the regulation of autophagy. (7)
Autophagy has a circadian rhythm (8).
Autophagy in skin aging
Mitochondria and Autophagy
The ability for mitochondria to generate autophagy is particularly important in preventing aging because old mitochondria cause damaging free radicals. Increasing autophagy, especially in mitochondria, is an anti-aging strategy. Increasing autophagy delays aging in flies, worms, and mice.(10)
Substances that induce autophagy such as lithium and trehalose have been shown in nematodes and mice to improve mitochondrial function, reduce senescence, and expand the lifespan.
Sirtuins and Autophagy
Sirtuin-1 (SIRT-1) has been shown to be the reason that caloric restriction improves health and longevity. Activation of SIRT-1 induces autophagy (11).
SIRT-1 is known to be activated by resveratrol (5) and melatonin.(6)
Autophagy and Skin
Autophagy is seen in both proliferating and differentiating keratinocytes. It helps maintain skin stem cells by promoting the removal of oxidized molecules, improves nucleotide excision repair (12) and removes lipofuscin. (13)
Old human dermal fibroblasts have significantly less autophagy than those of young dermal fibroblasts. Loss of autophagy leads to the induction of cellular senescence. Cellular senescence leads to skin aging.
Skin Pigmentation
Decreased autophagy has been seen in melasma due to the lack of degradation of melanosomes resulting in increased skin pigment in the keratinocytes. (16,17)
Autophagy and Diet
Autophagy is induced by nutrient starvation, oxidative stress, infection, and two protein kinases (unc-51 like kinase complex and the phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase complex).(9) We are still learning how to increase autophagy but the most proven way to increase autophagy is with intermittent fasting and caloric restriction. Upregulation of autophagy is thought to contribute to the prolongation of lifespan seen with caloric restriction.
DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life.
What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin?
Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition.
Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes.
If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider.
What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin?
Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity.
Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C.
Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post.
Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C?
Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster.
This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster.
While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin.
It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin.
Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning?
Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance.
You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather.
Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.
