Azelaic 10% vs 14% What Is Really The Difference

10% Azelaic Acid vs. 14% Azelaic Acid: What’s the Real Difference?

Most over-the-counter products containing azelaic acid, including Paula’s Choice® and The Ordinary®, contain no more than 10% of the active ingredient. For some people, this concentration isn’t enough to produce real results in lightening dark spots and clearing up acne.

To get a higher percentage of active ingredient, many people turn to prescription azelaic acid, which typically contains 15-20% active ingredient. However, some people experience dryness and irritation at higher concentrations. At Foundation Skincare, we’ve found that 14% is just the right amount to significantly improve skin health without causing irritation. Read on to learn more about the benefits of azelaic acid and how to choose the right strength.

What is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid that is commonly found in wheat, barley, and other grains. It’s also produced by a type of fungus on the skin. With powerful antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties, azelaic acid is very effective at neutralizing free radicals, helping to reduce acne breakouts, soothe irritation, and slow protein buildup on the skin.

At the same time, azelaic acid acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor. 1 Tyrosinase is an enzyme responsible for the synthesis of melanin, which creates pigment in the skin. By inhibiting this phenomenon, azelaic acid helps eliminate hyperpigmentation and lightens the skin.

There is some evidence that azelaic acid may also help reduce signs of premature aging. Combined with other skin-nourishing nutrients like vitamins C, E, and A, azelaic acid is clinically proven to improve skin elasticity and flexibility, reduce wrinkles, and even out skin tone. 2

Azelaic acid: various strengths

When it comes to choosing an azelaic acid strength, the decision may depend on your specific skin concerns and needs.

Prescription products may seem like a better option because they have a higher concentration, but this is not always the case, especially if you have sensitive skin. At the same time, using a lower concentration may not produce noticeable results. Here are some tips for choosing the right concentration for your skin.

Benefits of 10% Azelaic Acid

Dermatologists agree that prescription products are generally better than over-the-counter products because they contain higher concentrations of azelaic acid, but the 10% concentration may still be effective for some users. 3 Most studies have focused on higher prescription concentrations, but we found some lower percentages of positive results.

For example, in a 2021 study, patients with mild to moderate acne had a 36.51% success rate after eight weeks using a 10% azelaic acid gel, compared to a 30.37% success rate for patients using a 20% azelaic acid cream. 4 Lower concentrations are also safer, with one patient using the 20% cream experiencing an adverse reaction.

The researchers explained that the benefits of using lower concentrations are more related to avoiding side effects observed with higher concentrations, such as burning, stinging, itching, dry skin, erythema, and irritation.

Azelaic Acid 14% Cream

• Reduces acne and rosacea

• Brightens skin tone and fades brown spots

• Unclogs pores and improves skin texture

Regular Price $45

Add to Cart

Benefits of 14% Azelaic Acid

Although the above studies show that azelaic acid in a 10% concentration is slightly more effective and generally safer than a 20% cream for treating acne, it appears to be just as effective for treating other skin conditions, such as hyperpigmentation and premature aging. It is recommended to use a slightly higher concentration of 14% rather than opting for 20% and risking side effects.

Most studies of the slightly higher concentration used products containing 15% azelaic acid, but this concentration is only available by prescription, so the 14% concentration found in over-the-counter products is ideal.

In a 2021 study, patients who used 15% azelaic acid experienced a significant reduction in inflammatory lesions and redness associated with rosacea. 5 No irritation or related side effects were found. Patients using 15% azelaic acid also experienced significant reductions in acne scarring after six months of using the product. 6 Higher concentrations of azelaic acid have also been shown to help reduce wrinkles and fine lines, according to a 2022 study 0.7

Important Differences

The most important difference between 10% and 14% azelaic acid is that the higher the concentration, the more conditions it can treat. However, using higher concentrations (especially 20%, the typical prescription strength) may cause side effects such as irritation. Most higher concentrations above 14% also require a visit to a dermatologist to obtain a prescription.

Benefits of 10% Azelaic Acid:

Effective in reducing mild to moderate acne

Less irritating than products with 20% Azelaic Acid

Benefits of 14% Azelaic Acid:

Effective for treating acne, acne scars, hyperpigmentation, rosacea, and premature aging

Highest percentage available without a prescription

Less irritating than the 20% concentration, especially when combined with soothing and moisturizing ingredients like aloe leaf juice and jojoba oil (found in Foundation Skincare’s Azelaic Acid 14% Cream)

Applications of Azelaic Acid

Foundation Skincare’s Azelaic Acid 14% Cream is for those struggling with acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, and premature aging. It was formulated by dermatologists as a cream that can be used daily without irritating the skin like many serums and gels. Other ingredients, like jojoba oil, avocado oil, and aloe leaf, provide soothing effects. At the medical-grade concentration of 14%, you may need to increase usage to twice daily as your skin adjusts. It also pairs well with other products in your base skincare line. We recommend starting with the following routine:

Morning:

Cleanse skin and pat dry.

Apply additional serums such as: B. Niacinamide Lotion 10% to soothe skin and aid in DNA repair. Azelaic acid also pairs well with Vitamin C Lotion 20% to increase firmness and elasticity while brightening skin.

Moisturize with Hyaluronic Acid Lotion, which acts like a magnet to attract moisture to the skin.

Apply a thin layer of 14% Azelaic Acid Cream to kill bacteria and reduce redness and inflammation.

Protect with a mineral broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30+ (preferably 50).

Evening

Cleanse and apply 10% Niacinamide Lotion.

Hydrate and regenerate your skin with a night cream containing 2% Granactive™ Retinoid to improve skin texture.

You may also consider taking supplements to support your skin health from the inside out. If hyperpigmentation is your primary concern, try Foundation Skincare’s Pigmentation Defense, which contains a special blend of antioxidants, vitamins and herbs to further improve visible signs of skin discoloration. Or use Foundation Skincare’s Spectrum supplement to support skin renewal and prevent further sun damage with plant-based antioxidants and essential vitamins like vitamin D and oral niacinamide.

Choose the Strength That’s Right for You

No two people have the same skin concerns. Starting with a 14% concentration is the ideal way to see if azelaic acid is right for your skin. It gives you the advantage of a higher concentration of active ingredients without a prescription, but the formula is gentle enough for even the most sensitive skin.

Learn more about the benefits of azelaic acid and find more skin care tips in FS Journal.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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