What Is Azelaic Acid and What Are Its Skincare Benefits?
If you’ve heard about various facial acids and feel overwhelmed, you’re not alone. But azelaic acid is truly a standout ingredient in the world of skincare.
For those struggling with breakouts, redness, or rosacea, it might just be your new best friend.
What Is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid is a natural compound found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye.
In skincare, it acts as a chemical exfoliant with antioxidant properties, helping to calm irritated skin and reduce inflammation and redness. It also fights acne and blemishes.
Compared to more popular acids like salicylic acid or glycolic acid, azelaic acid is lesser-known. Because of this, it’s less common in many skincare products.
However, that makes it a bit of a “holy grail” ingredient for those who discover it.
Prescription products tend to contain higher amounts of azelaic acid, sometimes up to 20%.
Over-the-counter products have lower concentrations but can still offer significant benefits, making them ideal for beginners.
Always consult a dermatologist before introducing azelaic acid into your routine to ensure it’s safe and appropriate for your skin type.
How Does Azelaic Acid Benefit the Skin?
Azelaic acid is a powerful ingredient that helps address many skin concerns. It works by encouraging healthy skin cell behavior and improving the upper layer of your skin, leaving it smoother and clearer.
Common skin issues azelaic acid helps reduce include:
Frequent breakouts and spots
Pigmentation and uneven skin tone
Scars and uneven skin texture
Dullness and lack of radiance
Redness and increased sensitivity
Unlike alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), azelaic acid is a unique ingredient.
It is gentler than many AHAs and BHAs but still effective, making it great to use alongside these acids for enhanced skincare benefits.
When combined with other acids like salicylic or lactic acid, azelaic acid can help combat blemishes, even out skin tone, and minimize signs of aging, giving your skin a comprehensive boost.
To learn more about AHAs and BHAs, check out our complete guide that explains which acid works best for your skin type and concerns.
Can You Use Azelaic Acid Every Day?
Yes, you can! Most research has focused on prescription-strength azelaic acid, proving it’s safe and stable enough for daily use, both morning and night.
That said, azelaic acid can cause dryness and peeling, especially when you first start using it. To avoid irritation, introduce it slowly into your routine.
Start by applying it only at night, and follow with hydrating oils or moisturizers.
Once your skin builds tolerance, you can increase to daily use. But always apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher in the morning to protect your skin from sun damage and UV rays.
When Should You Use Azelaic Acid in Your Skincare Routine?
For the best results, azelaic acid should be used in leave-on products, such as serums or moisturizers, rather than cleansers. Cleansers rinse off quickly, giving acids less time to work.
Serums and moisturizers allow azelaic acid to gently exfoliate dead skin cells, fade pigmentation, and target early signs of aging.
After applying azelaic acid, it’s wise to layer on a hydrating product, like a gel-based formula with high concentrations of hyaluronic acid. This helps prevent dryness and restores moisture balance to your skin.
What Are the Side Effects of Azelaic Acid?
While azelaic acid is generally safe, some users may experience side effects such as:
Burning or tingling sensations on the skin
Peeling or flaking, especially in the beginning
Dryness and redness
To reduce these effects, use hydrating moisturizers and sunscreen daily. Apply azelaic acid gradually and avoid using harsh products alongside it.
If you experience more severe symptoms, stop use immediately and consult a healthcare professional.
Less Common and More Serious Reactions
Though rare, some people may have serious reactions to azelaic acid, including:
Blistering or severe irritation
Swelling and hives
Itching and difficulty breathing
Joint pain or tightness
Fever
Because of these risks, always perform a patch test before fully adding azelaic acid to your routine. Apply a small amount to a discreet area of skin and wait 24 hours to check for adverse reactions.
If any serious symptoms appear, discontinue use and seek medical advice promptly.
Why Is Azelaic Acid So Special?
Azelaic acid is still somewhat mysterious because it isn’t as widely studied or talked about as other facial acids. However, its growing popularity among skincare experts and enthusiasts speaks volumes.
Its unique combination of anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and exfoliating effects makes it effective for a variety of persistent skin issues, including acne, rosacea, and pigmentation problems.
If you suffer from redness or frequent breakouts, azelaic acid might just hold the key to clearer, calmer skin. It’s worth exploring to see if it’s the missing piece in your skincare routine.
In Summary
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid derived from grains and used in skincare for its exfoliating and anti-inflammatory properties.
It benefits skin prone to acne, redness, uneven tone, and dullness.
It is gentler than many AHAs and BHAs but still effective and can be safely combined with other acids.
Prescription products often contain higher percentages; over-the-counter versions are lower but still effective.
Start slowly to avoid dryness and irritation, and always use sunscreen during the day.
Use azelaic acid in serums or moisturizers rather than cleansers for best results.
Side effects may include tingling, dryness, or redness but usually lessen with time. Serious allergic reactions are rare but require immediate medical attention.
Azelaic acid’s unique properties and wide range of benefits make it a valuable addition to any skincare regimen.
By helping calm inflammation, reduce pigmentation, and prevent breakouts, it supports a healthier, more radiant complexion.
Want to dive deeper? Explore more about chemical exfoliants and how different acids work by checking out our detailed guides.
Understanding these ingredients empowers you to choose the best products tailored to your skin’s needs.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
