Azelaic Acid in Skin Care

Azelaic acid (AA) is a popular and effective ingredient used primarily for its skin lightening, tyrosinase inhibition, anti-inflammatory and antiaging properties in skin care. It is found in skin creams, lotions and serums and in prescription rosacea medications and is used to treat dark spots, acne, rosacea, wrinkles, and other conditions with many studies supporting its use.

It is safe with very low chance of allergies.

This blog is all about the benefits, uses, and important facts related to azelaic acid in skin care.

Azelaic Acid

What is azelaic acid?

What is Azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in many plants like grains or oats. (7)

Many dicarboxylic acids are used in products designed for skin lightening, rosacea, and acne treatments. (4)

It has a low pH, and is used in many cleansers and exfoliators.

The INCI name for AA is azelaic acid acid. Other names it is known by include:

1,7-Dicarboxyheptane

1,7-Heptanedicarboxylic Acid

Anchoic Acid

Lepargylic Acid

Nonanedioic Acid

Benefits

Azelaic acid is well known for its anti-inflammatory, exfoliating, and skin lightening benefits. (1)

It is a very good skin lightening ingredient and can be found in many hyperpigmentation treatments. (7)

It can lighten skin both by inhibiting tyrosinase and by damaging melanin producing cells in the skin called melanocytes.(10)

It is effective on naturally light and/or dark skin tones as part of a hyperpigmentation treatment plan. (5)

AA has a low pH which means it is a good exfoliant in many cleansers and anti-aging products. (6)

Soothing anti-redness ingredients like azelaic acid are good for many inflammatory skin conditions like eczema or rosacea. (12)

Antimicrobial benefits have also been observed in azelaic acid, meaning it can eliminate many kinds of bacteria. (14)

Its low pH makes the skin less hospitable to acne causing bacteria.

Side effects of azelaic acid

Side-effects and safety

Azelaic acid is safe to use in many kinds of skin care products. Because it has a low pH, it can cause some mild stinging after applying.

It should not be used when your skin stings because the low pH can cause a burning sensation.

AA does not have any other common causes of concern or notable side effects, with very low chances of allergy.

The EWG gives rinse-off azelaic products a score of 1-2. The risk of leave on products is minimal when used on small areas such as the face.

There is a very low risk of allergy to azelaic acid, but only mild reactions light redness or inflammation are common.

Overall, azelaic acid is a good ingredient with few safety concerns, but you should always shop by your skin type to make sure you’re only buying the right products for your skin.

Pregnancy

This ingredient is a FDA Pregnancy safety category B which means that animal studies have failed to demonstrate a risk to the fetus, and there are no adequate and well-controlled studies in pregnant women. Considered safe for use in pregnancy, preferably in limited areas and not during the first trimester to minimize any potential risks.

In the prescription form of azelaic acid called Finacea, the FDA states that “There are no adequate and well-controlled studies of topically administered azelaic acid in pregnant women. The experience with FINACEA® Gel, 15%, when used by pregnant women is too limited to permit assessment of the safety of its use during pregnancy.” (15)

If you choose to cosmetic face serums or creams with this ingredient while pregnant, only use a small amount on the face only. Do not use on large areas of the body.

It is also recommended that babies under two years old avoid azelaic acid because it can irritate their skin, and has a higher risk of systemic absorption.

Toxicity

Azelaic acid is an natural ingredient derived from wheat, barley and rye. It is considered a clean ingredient. Organic forms of this plant derived ingredient do exist.

Retinol vs azelaic acid

Ingredients you can you use together with azelaic acid

Can you use azelaic acid with retinol?

Retinol is in the family of retinoid compounds, while azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid.

They can be used together in anti-aging, acne, and skin lightening skin care routines.

They are both exfoliants which can smooth fine lines and increase collagen production: using more than 3 types of exfoliants in the skin care routine can lead to over-exfoliation.

Both retinoids and azelaic acid help increase collagen production, but retinoids are much more effective at increasing skin collagen and azelaic does not protect collagen as well as retinoids do.

Producing more collagen means you will smooth fine lines and wrinkles. and improve skin thickness, strength and texture.

Retinoids are great for concerns like wrinkles, photoaging, and acne, but can irritate dry or sensitive skin and cause retinoid dermatitis.

Azelaic acid in skin care has soothing properties but it’s low pH can also irritate the skin.

Difference between retinol and azelaic acid for skin aging

Retinol prevents aging by turning off genes that break down collagen.

AA is an antioxidant, while retinoids are not. (16)

Retinoids are better at treating skin aging than azelaic acid long term, but Azelaic acid has faster benefits.

How to use azelaic acid together with retinol?

Apply azelaic acid in the AM before your moisturizer or before the retinol step in your evening skin care routine.

If your skin is irritated from retinoids or if you are just beginning a retinol, do not use azelaic acid because you may over-exfoliate leading to skin stinging and irritation.

Best oils to use with azelaic acid

Best Oils to use with AA

Dry skin types need extra skin moisturization, and azelaic acid does not have moisturizing properties. For this reason, dry skin types may want to combine AA with natural oils like:

Avocado oil

Grapeseed oil

Olive oil

Rosehip oil

Sunflower oil

For specific conditions

Azelaic acid can be used to treat many conditions where anti-inflammatory, non-comedogenic, antimicrobial, or antioxidant ingredients would be helpful.

Some of the most common conditions azelaic acid is used to treat include acne, hyperpigmentation, rosacea, and wrinkles,

Acne

Azelaic acid is antimicrobial and contains no comedogenic fatty acids, meaning it can be a great addition to many acne products. (1)

The best acne routines include antimicrobial, exfoliating, and soothing elements while not adding extra oil onto the skin.

For those reasons, azelaic acid could be great for your acne routine, depending on your Baumann Skin Type.

Azelaic acid for hyperpigmentation

Azelaic acid is best known for its capabilities in skin lightening. (7)

It expresses two mechanisms for lightening skin:

It is a competitive tyrosinase inhibitor

It is cytotoxic to melanocytes

Being a competitive tyrosinase inhibitor means it is fairly effective at stopping melanin production signals on its own, unlike many natural oil based tyrosinase inhibitors which only really work in combination with other ingredients.

Melanocytes are structures in the skin responsible for producing melanin, skin pigment. Because azelaic acid can interfere directly with melanocytes, it is very effective at treating dark spots.

Azelaic acid is used in treatments of many kinds of hyperpigmentation including melasma, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and sun damage.

Rosacea

Azelaic acid also expresses soothing anti-inflammatory properties which have been shown to have benefits in rosacea treatments. (1)

Inflammation is one of the four major barriers to skin health and should be calmed to prevent skin aging and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Wrinkles

As a low pH exfoliant, azelaic acid can smooth skin and stimulate collagen production, it also decreases inflammation and therefore is great in the prevention and treatment of wrinkles.(1,6)

When used as a part of your skin lightening routine, azelaic acid can commonly be found combined with other ingredients like retinoids other anti-aging ingredients like:

Peptides

Hyaluronic acid

Vitamin C

What are azelaic acid gels?

Azelaic acid Gel

Gels are water based skin care products, meaning they absorb into the skin much faster than oil based products.

Gels are also safer to use on acne prone skin, as they do not contain oils which can sometimes clog pores or overhydrate skin.

Since azelaic acid is often used in acne treatments and cleansers, clean, quick absorbing gels are often the best way to deliver the ingredient.

Azelaic acid serum

Serums are usually productions with extremely high concentrations of their active ingredient. For this reason, serums are among the most expensive skin care products.

Because serums are very concentrated, ingredients like azelaic acid which have profound effects even in low concentrations become more effective.

Azelaic acid serums can be expected to more aggressively perform the same functions as azelaic acid in other products, this can mean more potent skin lightening effects, more anti-inflammatory properties, and fewer bacteria on the face.

Is it an exfoliator?

Yes, azelaic acid is an exfoliator. Specifically, it is a low pH chemical exfoliator which works by dissolving attachments between cells.

The skin naturally exfoliates itself during a process called desquamation, but ingredients like azelaic acid help cleanse the skin evenly and in a controlled manner.

Exfoliating is an important part of many skin care regimens. Take our quiz to find out which exfoliators, if any, are right for your custom skin care regimen!

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.

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