Azelaic Acid in Skin Care: Benefits, Usage, and Key Insights

Azelaic Acid in Skin Care

Azelaic acid (AA) is a popular and effective ingredient used primarily for its skin lightening, tyrosinase inhibition, anti-inflammatory and antiaging properties in skin care. It is found in skin creams, lotions and serums and in prescription rosacea medications and is used to treat dark spots, acne, rosacea, wrinkles, and other conditions with many studies supporting its use.

It is safe with very low chance of allergies.

This blog is all about the benefits, uses, and important facts related to azelaic acid in skin care.

Azelaic Acid

What is azelaic acid?

What is Azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in many plants like grains or oats. (7)

Many dicarboxylic acids are used in products designed for skin lightening, rosacea, and acne treatments. (4)

It has a low pH, and is used in many cleansers and exfoliators.

The INCI name for AA is azelaic acid acid. Other names it is known by include:

1,7-Dicarboxyheptane

1,7-Heptanedicarboxylic Acid

Anchoic Acid

Lepargylic Acid

Nonanedioic Acid

Benefits

Azelaic acid is well known for its anti-inflammatory, exfoliating, and skin lightening benefits. (1)

It is a very good skin lightening ingredient and can be found in many hyperpigmentation treatments. (7)

It can lighten skin both by inhibiting tyrosinase and by damaging melanin producing cells in the skin called melanocytes.(10)

It is effective on naturally light and/or dark skin tones as part of a hyperpigmentation treatment plan. (5)

AA has a low pH which means it is a good exfoliant in many cleansers and anti-aging products. (6)

Soothing anti-redness ingredients like azelaic acid are good for many inflammatory skin conditions like eczema or rosacea. (12)

Antimicrobial benefits have also been observed in azelaic acid, meaning it can eliminate many kinds of bacteria. (14)

Its low pH makes the skin less hospitable to acne causing bacteria.

Side effects of azelaic acid

Side-effects and safety

Azelaic acid is safe to use in many kinds of skin care products. Because it has a low pH, it can cause some mild stinging after applying.

It should not be used when your skin stings because the low pH can cause a burning sensation.

AA does not have any other common causes of concern or notable side effects, with very low chances of allergy.

The EWG gives rinse-off azelaic products a score of 1-2. The risk of leave on products is minimal when used on small areas such as the face.

There is a very low risk of allergy to azelaic acid, but only mild reactions light redness or inflammation are common.

Overall, azelaic acid is a good ingredient with few safety concerns, but you should always shop by your skin type to make sure you’re only buying the right products for your skin.

Pregnancy

This ingredient is a FDA Pregnancy safety category B which means that animal studies have failed to demonstrate a risk to the fetus, and there are no adequate and well-controlled studies in pregnant women. Considered safe for use in pregnancy, preferably in limited areas and not during the first trimester to minimize any potential risks.

In the prescription form of azelaic acid called Finacea, the FDA states that “There are no adequate and well-controlled studies of topically administered azelaic acid in pregnant women. The experience with FINACEA® Gel, 15%, when used by pregnant women is too limited to permit assessment of the safety of its use during pregnancy.” (15)

If you choose to cosmetic face serums or creams with this ingredient while pregnant, only use a small amount on the face only. Do not use on large areas of the body.

It is also recommended that babies under two years old avoid azelaic acid because it can irritate their skin, and has a higher risk of systemic absorption.

Toxicity

Azelaic acid is an natural ingredient derived from wheat, barley and rye. It is considered a clean ingredient. Organic forms of this plant derived ingredient do exist.

Retinol vs azelaic acid

Ingredients you can you use together with azelaic acid

Can you use azelaic acid with retinol?

Retinol is in the family of retinoid compounds, while azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid.

They can be used together in anti-aging, acne, and skin lightening skin care routines.

They are both exfoliants which can smooth fine lines and increase collagen production: using more than 3 types of exfoliants in the skin care routine can lead to over-exfoliation.

Both retinoids and azelaic acid help increase collagen production, but retinoids are much more effective at increasing skin collagen and azelaic does not protect collagen as well as retinoids do.

Producing more collagen means you will smooth fine lines and wrinkles. and improve skin thickness, strength and texture.

Retinoids are great for concerns like wrinkles, photoaging, and acne, but can irritate dry or sensitive skin and cause retinoid dermatitis.

Azelaic acid in skin care has soothing properties but it’s low pH can also irritate the skin.

Difference between retinol and azelaic acid for skin aging

Retinol prevents aging by turning off genes that break down collagen.

AA is an antioxidant, while retinoids are not. (16)

Retinoids are better at treating skin aging than azelaic acid long term, but Azelaic acid has faster benefits.

How to use azelaic acid together with retinol?

Apply azelaic acid in the AM before your moisturizer or before the retinol step in your evening skin care routine.

If your skin is irritated from retinoids or if you are just beginning a retinol, do not use azelaic acid because you may over-exfoliate leading to skin stinging and irritation.

Best oils to use with azelaic acid

Best Oils to use with AA

Dry skin types need extra skin moisturization, and azelaic acid does not have moisturizing properties. For this reason, dry skin types may want to combine AA with natural oils like:

Avocado oil

Grapeseed oil

Olive oil

Rosehip oil

Sunflower oil

For specific conditions

Azelaic acid can be used to treat many conditions where anti-inflammatory, non-comedogenic, antimicrobial, or antioxidant ingredients would be helpful.

Some of the most common conditions azelaic acid is used to treat include acne, hyperpigmentation, rosacea, and wrinkles,

Acne

Azelaic acid is antimicrobial and contains no comedogenic fatty acids, meaning it can be a great addition to many acne products. (1)

The best acne routines include antimicrobial, exfoliating, and soothing elements while not adding extra oil onto the skin.

For those reasons, azelaic acid could be great for your acne routine, depending on your Baumann Skin Type.

Azelaic acid for hyperpigmentation

Azelaic acid is best known for its capabilities in skin lightening. (7)

It expresses two mechanisms for lightening skin:

It is a competitive tyrosinase inhibitor

It is cytotoxic to melanocytes

Being a competitive tyrosinase inhibitor means it is fairly effective at stopping melanin production signals on its own, unlike many natural oil based tyrosinase inhibitors which only really work in combination with other ingredients.

Melanocytes are structures in the skin responsible for producing melanin, skin pigment. Because azelaic acid can interfere directly with melanocytes, it is very effective at treating dark spots.

Azelaic acid is used in treatments of many kinds of hyperpigmentation including melasma, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and sun damage.

Rosacea

Azelaic acid also expresses soothing anti-inflammatory properties which have been shown to have benefits in rosacea treatments. (1)

Inflammation is one of the four major barriers to skin health and should be calmed to prevent skin aging and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Wrinkles

As a low pH exfoliant, azelaic acid can smooth skin and stimulate collagen production, it also decreases inflammation and therefore is great in the prevention and treatment of wrinkles.(1,6)

When used as a part of your skin lightening routine, azelaic acid can commonly be found combined with other ingredients like retinoids other anti-aging ingredients like:

Peptides

Hyaluronic acid

Vitamin C

What are azelaic acid gels?

Azelaic acid Gel

Gels are water based skin care products, meaning they absorb into the skin much faster than oil based products.

Gels are also safer to use on acne prone skin, as they do not contain oils which can sometimes clog pores or overhydrate skin.

Since azelaic acid is often used in acne treatments and cleansers, clean, quick absorbing gels are often the best way to deliver the ingredient.

Azelaic acid serum

Serums are usually productions with extremely high concentrations of their active ingredient. For this reason, serums are among the most expensive skin care products.

Because serums are very concentrated, ingredients like azelaic acid which have profound effects even in low concentrations become more effective.

Azelaic acid serums can be expected to more aggressively perform the same functions as azelaic acid in other products, this can mean more potent skin lightening effects, more anti-inflammatory properties, and fewer bacteria on the face.

Is it an exfoliator?

Yes, azelaic acid is an exfoliator. Specifically, it is a low pH chemical exfoliator which works by dissolving attachments between cells.

The skin naturally exfoliates itself during a process called desquamation, but ingredients like azelaic acid help cleanse the skin evenly and in a controlled manner.

Exfoliating is an important part of many skin care regimens. Take our quiz to find out which exfoliators, if any, are right for your custom skin care regimen!

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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