Azelaic Acid in Skincare: A Gentle Yet Powerful Solution

The Unsung Hero of Acne Treatment: Why Azelaic Acid Deserves a Spot in Your Skincare Routine

When you think about the most effective acne-fighting ingredients, certain names immediately come to mind—salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and retinoids like retinol often top the list. These active ingredients are renowned for their ability to unclog pores, reduce inflammation, and promote skin cell turnover. They’ve been around for decades and are well-known for delivering visible results. However, there’s another powerful yet often overlooked ingredient that deserves just as much recognition: azelaic acid.

Although not as famous as its acne-fighting counterparts, azelaic acid is a multi-tasking powerhouse that treats not only acne but a variety of other common skin concerns, including rosacea, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone. It’s especially useful for individuals who have sensitive skin or find stronger ingredients too irritating.

What Is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid found in whole grains such as wheat, barley, and rye. It can also be produced by Malassezia furfur, a type of yeast that lives on normal skin. Its natural origin makes it a gentle yet effective solution for many skin issues, including inflammatory acne and pigmentation disorders.

Dr. Stacy Chimento, a board-certified dermatologist at Riverchase Dermatology in Gulf Harbor Islands, Florida, explains: “Azelaic acid is commonly formulated into creams, foams, or gels. It reduces inflammation, promotes faster skin cell turnover, and helps to kill the bacteria that cause acne. It’s a very versatile ingredient.”

The ingredient is also known for its keratolytic properties, meaning it helps prevent the buildup of dead skin cells that can clog pores and lead to acne. In addition, it offers mild antibacterial and antioxidant benefits, making it a suitable treatment for people prone to blemishes or skin sensitivity.

How Does Azelaic Acid Work for Acne?

Azelaic acid works in several ways to treat and prevent acne. It targets Propionibacterium acnes (now known as Cutibacterium acnes), the bacteria responsible for breakouts, and helps to normalize the shedding of dead skin cells. This reduces the likelihood of clogged pores and blackheads.

It’s also a powerful anti-inflammatory. For those suffering from inflamed acne—characterized by red, swollen pimples and pustules—azelaic acid helps to calm the skin and reduce visible irritation. “As an anti-inflammatory agent, azelaic acid reduces redness, puffiness, and discomfort,” says Dr. Chimento.

Another added bonus: azelaic acid is effective in lightening post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), a common concern for people with acne-prone or darker skin. It works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for melanin production. This makes it an excellent choice for those who want to fade dark spots or melasma without turning to harsh bleaching agents.

How to Use Azelaic Acid in Your Skincare Routine

Azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated and can be used both morning and evening. However, there are a few important application tips to maximize its effectiveness and minimize potential irritation.

First, always cleanse your face thoroughly before applying the product. Dr. Aza Halim, another board-certified dermatologist, recommends waiting about 15 minutes after cleansing to allow your skin to dry completely. This helps reduce the risk of stinging or irritation upon application.

Azelaic acid should be applied as a thin layer over the affected area—this could be your entire face or just specific areas like your cheeks, forehead, or chin. After the product is fully absorbed, follow up with a moisturizer to lock in hydration and further soothe the skin.

Dr. Halim also advises: “Azelaic acid should blend seamlessly into the skin. Avoid leaving a visible border or applying too thick a layer, as this could result in blotchy, uneven skin texture.”

If you’re just starting out with azelaic acid, especially if you have sensitive skin, it’s best to introduce it gradually. Begin with every other day or just a few times a week, then slowly increase usage as your skin builds tolerance.

Can You Combine Azelaic Acid With Other Ingredients?

Azelaic acid is generally compatible with most skincare ingredients, which makes it easy to incorporate into existing routines. You can safely use it alongside ingredients like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides, which help moisturize and protect the skin barrier.

However, there are some combinations to approach with caution. “Using azelaic acid with other acids, particularly beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid, may increase the risk of dryness or irritation,” warns Dr. Chimento. If you’re using a product that already contains salicylic acid or glycolic acid, be sure to space out the application times or alternate days.

As always, it’s a good idea to consult with a dermatologist before combining multiple active ingredients, especially if you’re using prescription treatments or experiencing skin sensitivity.

Are There Any Side Effects?

While azelaic acid is considered gentle compared to other acne treatments, it’s not entirely without side effects. Some users may experience mild burning, tingling, or stinging upon application. Other potential side effects include redness, dryness, flaking, or peeling of the skin.

These symptoms are usually temporary and diminish as your skin gets used to the ingredient. However, in rare cases, allergic reactions such as hives or severe itching may occur. If you notice any of these more serious symptoms, discontinue use immediately and seek medical advice.

Again, for sensitive skin types, it’s important to ease into azelaic acid slowly. Start with a lower concentration and monitor your skin’s response before moving to daily use.

Best Azelaic Acid Products to Try

If you’re ready to give azelaic acid a try, here are some top-rated products to consider:

Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster

This multitasking formula doesn’t just rely on azelaic acid—it also includes salicylic acid and licorice root extract to calm inflammation, reduce blemishes, and improve overall skin tone. It’s ideal for those looking to treat acne and pigmentation at the same time.

The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%

A budget-friendly option that delivers powerful results. This cream-gel formula brightens skin tone, reduces blemishes, and provides antioxidant protection—all for under $10. It’s a great starting point for azelaic acid beginners.

FaceTheory Lumizela Azelaic Acid Serum A10

Formulated with 10% azelaic acid, this serum is enhanced with soothing botanicals like oat extract and aloe vera. It’s particularly beneficial for individuals dealing with both acne and rosacea, thanks to its calming properties.

Sodium Azelate Topical 10%

A refined derivative of azelaic acid, sodium azelate is paired with Vitamin C and niacinamide to further reduce redness, pigmentation, and oil production. Ideal for those seeking a more targeted treatment for oiliness and discoloration.

Typology Oil Control Essence 10% Azelaic Acid

This French skincare brand delivers a lightweight serum that helps balance sebum levels while fighting blemishes. It’s especially popular among users with combination or oily skin types.

PCA SKIN Pigment Gel

Designed for those struggling with dark spots and melasma, this pigment-reducing formula combines azelaic acid with lactic and kojic acids to even out skin tone and prevent future discoloration.

Dr. Brandt Dark Spots No More Triple Acid Stain Minimizing Concentrate

This high-performance serum targets stubborn pigmentation with a potent blend of tranexamic acid, azelaic acid, and phytic acid. It’s dermatologist-approved for fading stubborn dark spots over time.

TULA Skincare Clear It Up Acne + Skin Correcting Gel

Want clear skin without sacrificing hydration? This gel blends azelaic acid with salicylic acid and probiotic extracts to target acne while keeping the skin’s barrier healthy and moisturized.

Final Thoughts: Should You Add Azelaic Acid to Your Routine?

Azelaic acid may not be the most talked-about skincare ingredient, but it’s certainly one of the most effective—especially for people looking to treat acne, redness, and hyperpigmentation without harsh side effects. Its versatility, gentle nature, and proven results make it an ideal choice for many skin types, including sensitive and combination skin.

If you’re struggling to find an acne solution that doesn’t irritate your skin—or if you’re looking for a multi-tasking product that can also help brighten your complexion—azelaic acid is worth considering. Just be sure to patch test first, introduce it gradually, and consult your dermatologist if you’re unsure how to combine it with your existing products.

DQH Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? It’s easy to create a skincare routine, but knowing how to use it is another thing entirely. In most cases, if you’re not getting the desired skin results, it could be due to the layering of conflicting ingredients. So, is it possible that salicylic acid and vitamin C are such ingredients? Or are these active ingredients the duo that’s been missing from your skincare routine? If you want answers, stick around because today we are going to explain the benefits of salicylic acid and vitamin C and how they can be used in your daily life. What are the benefits of salicylic acid for skin? Salicylic acid is one of the most commonly used beta hydroxy acids and is favored by many people with oily, acne-prone skin. This acid is derived from willow bark, and unlike its water-soluble relatives (called alpha-hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can penetrate deeper into the lower layers of the skin. Once it reaches the lower layers, it can help unclog pores of excess sebum, dirt, bacteria, debris, and impurities. This results in clearer skin tones and greater definition. Not only does salicylic acid benefit the underlying layers, but the outer surface of the skin benefits as well. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid removes the buildup of dead skin cells. This is accomplished by breaking the bonds that hold dead cells to the surface. Over time, this can cause the complexion to look dull and prone to acne, blackheads, and other blemishes. If you’d like to learn more about salicylic acid and how it can improve your skin, check out this dedicated blog post from a beauty insider. What are the benefits of vitamin C for skin? Vitamin C is considered one of the most powerful antioxidants, which means it is very effective at fighting free radicals and preventing them from causing further skin damage. Examples of free radicals include pollution, central heating, UV rays and harsh climate. They attack proteins, fats and cell membranes as soon as they come into contact with the skin, causing signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles as well as hyperpigmentation, flaky patches of skin and loss of elasticity. Many people usually prefer to use vitamin C in their morning routine as this ingredient gives the complexion a radiant glow. You’ll also find that vitamin C can target areas of hyperpigmentation, plumping the skin and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The thing about vitamin C is that there are a lot of outdated studies going back to the 1950s that describe vitamin C as an unstable skin component. Thanks to improvements in modern technology, this is no longer the case as all products now contain a stable form of vitamin C. Visit The Beauty Insider to learn more about vitamin C. So please check out our blog post. Can I use salicylic acid first and then vitamin C? Yes, you absolutely can. In fact, it’s thought that using salicylic acid before using vitamin C ensures it penetrates faster and works faster. This is an efficient way to utilize two power sources, and the reason has to do with pH. For example, the skin’s natural pH is about 4.7, making it slightly acidic. Salicylic acid and vitamin C are also both acidic, and you’ll find that vitamin C is absorbed quickly into the skin. Therefore, using salicylic acid beforehand can increase the acidity of the skin and allow vitamin C to penetrate into the skin faster. While this is considered an effective way to combine two powerful ingredients, you need to be aware of your skin type and how it reacts to certain active ingredients. Even people with perfect, normal skin can experience skin sensitivity and irritation. Therefore, always consult a doctor or dermatologist before using any new products on your skin. It’s also important to follow skin application rules. In this case, you need to use the product correctly to ensure you get the best results for your skin. If you’re not sure what I mean, the basic rule for skin is to start with the thinnest consistency and work your way up to the thickest consistency. This prevents a barrier from forming on the surface, preventing other active ingredients from penetrating the skin. Can I use salicylic acid at night and vitamin C in the morning? Yes, absolutely, this is considered the most effective way to get returns without any adverse side effects. This is because there is enough time between applications to ensure that the skin’s pH levels return to balance. You’ll also find that Vitamin C is rich in antioxidants and is perfect for use in the morning to ensure your skin is protected and looking its healthiest. Due to the small size of salicylic acid molecules, it is an acid that is able to reach the deepest parts of the skin. While this is effective at keeping skin clear, it also increases the risk of irritation and photosensitivity. Therefore, many people prefer to use powerful BHAs in their evening routine without exposure to UV rays, pollution, or harsh weather. Warning: If you avoid using sunscreen every day, none of these ingredients will do what your skin needs. The combination of chemical peels and powerful ingredients increases the risk of further damage to the skin’s surface. Use SPF 50 every day to keep your skin protected and your lipid barrier healthy, even on cloudy days, keeping your skin in top condition.

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