The Science of Cocoa Butter in Skincare
Cocoa butter is a great ingredient for treating dry and resistant skin. It has anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, antioxidant, and UV protection properties.
If it is not processed for use in cosmetic formulations, it dries to a solid, buttery substance.
This ingredient is highly comedogenic and can cause acne on sensitive skin if not washed off thoroughly with a cleanser.
Despite this drawback, cocoa butter has many interesting uses in skincare.
To find out if cocoa butter is right for your skin type, take our skincare test. Ask your Baumann skin type and get free personalized skincare advice!
What is cocoa butter made of?
Cocoa butter is a thick oil that consists mainly of saturated fatty acids such as palmitic and stearic acid. It also contains small amounts of linoleic, alpha-linolenic, and oleic acid.
Palmitic and stearic acid are highly comedogenic saturated fats that can easily clog the pores of sensitive skin.
In dry, stretchy skin, its ability to retain moisture and repair the skin barrier may not lead to acne.
In addition to lipids, this ingredient is also rich in various polyphenols, minerals, etc. (1.6)
The main components of cocoa butter include:
Caffeine – an antioxidant and vasoconstrictor. (5)
Catechins – UV protection and antioxidant effects. (2)
Flavanols – a class of polyphenols found in many plants such as green tea.
Theobromine – a methylxanthine similar to caffeine. (3)
Vitamin E – one of the most studied antioxidants in the field of skin care. (4)
Benefits for the skin
If cocoa butter is suitable for your skin type, it can provide you with anti-inflammatory, moisturizing and sun protection benefits.
If you are not prone to acne and have dry, less resistant skin (Bauman), then this ingredient can be a good addition to your moisturizer.
When used on the arms and legs, there is no great risk of acne, so cocoa butter can be used in body moisturizers without the risk of acne in most cases.
Is cocoa butter useful for skin care?
Is cocoa butter good for the skin?
Cocoa butter has some beneficial properties for skin care, but only for dry, resistant skin.
For dry, resistant skin, this ingredient can reduce inflammation, repair the skin barrier, and lock in moisture due to its thick, occlusive texture.
It also contains antioxidants and UV protection, making it suitable for preventing and treating sunburn.
Even if you don’t use cocoa butter on acne-prone areas of your body, it’s still a good choice.
For oily or sensitive skin, cocoa butter contains high concentrations of comedogenic fatty acids, which are known to clog the pores of acne-prone skin. (7)
While it provides excellent moisturization and has some antioxidant properties, it’s not suitable for most skin types.
Is it safe?
Organizations such as the Environmental Working Group (EWG) consider cocoa butter safe for use in cosmetics, but more research is needed on this ingredient.
Surprisingly, there is little research on the use of this ingredient in cosmetics, but it is known to clog pores due to its comedogenic fatty acids, making it unsuitable for sensitive, oily skin.
Additionally, overhydration can cause changes in the natural microbiome of the face, which can trigger various types of acne, including cysts.
The Role of Cocoa Butter in Skin Care and Acne
Cocoa Butter and Acne
Cocoa butter is highly comedogenic and can clog the pores of acne-prone skin.
We do not recommend using this ingredient to treat acne, as it and other comedogenic ingredients will only make acne worse.
Instead of using cocoa butter to treat acne, use cleansers, scrubs, and other products specifically designed to treat acne.
On our website, you’ll find some common ingredients that are often beneficial in acne treatment:
Benzoyl peroxide
Glycolic acid
Retinoids
Salicylic acid
Raw cocoa butter
If you find cocoa butter in a skin care product, it is usually raw cocoa butter.
Cocoa butter is typically obtained during the chocolate production process by subjecting fermented cocoa beans to pressure treatment and various other mechanical extraction processes. (6)
It is not a synthetic ingredient and is not typically heated to the point of denaturing its beneficial enzymes in skin care.
Cocoa Butter in Skin Care for Inflammation
If Inflammation is a concern
Cocoa butter is an excellent anti-inflammatory for dry, resistant skin.
Cocoa butter contains some unsaturated fatty acids, such as linoleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid, which can regenerate the skin barrier. (1,6,7)
The antioxidants in cocoa butter also help reduce inflammation caused by oxidative stress.
Skin conditions with dry and irritated skin barriers, such as B. eczema, can benefit from the occlusive, anti-inflammatory effects of this ingredient.
If you need an anti-inflammatory but are prone to acne, check out this list of anti-inflammatory skin care ingredients!
Anti-Aging
Cocoa butter contains considerable amounts of antioxidants such as various polyphenols, vitamin E, caffeine, and more. (1) Antioxidants are essential for eliminating free radicals from the skin.
Free radicals can cause genetic damage to skin cells, leading to a variety of conditions such as sunburn, wrinkles, and skin cancer. (8)
In addition to binding free radicals, certain components of cocoa butter have been shown to absorb UV rays (2,3,6).
Cocoa butter alone isn’t enough to protect your skin from aging. Find a complete list of anti-aging ingredients in this gallery!
Best Cocoa Butter Skin Creams
Best Cocoa Butter Creams
Cocoa butter is most commonly used in skin care products as a thick, occlusive moisturizer for dry, resistant skin.
If you’re looking for an effective moisturizer with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that’s non-comedogenic, consider the following cocoa butter creams:
Other Cocoa Butter Products
In addition to creams, there is also a range of masks, sunscreens and other interesting cocoa butter products that might be suitable for dry, resistant skin!
Be sure to take our skin type test to avoid buying products that are not suitable for your face shape.