Best Treatment For Melasma on the Face

Melasma is a common complaint seen by dermatologists, in which patches of pigmentation appear on the skin – usually on areas of the face such as the upper lip, cheeks and forehead. There is no cure for melasma, but there are a number of ways to treat and prevent melasma, which we will discuss in this article.

Melasma is often caused by stress, sun exposure, and is common during pregnancy. In fact, melasma is often referred to as the ‘mask of pregnancy’ because the hormones produced during pregnancy can cause dark skin on the upper lip that looks like a mustache, known as ‘melasma mustache’ or a ‘sun mustache’. Learn more about what causes this dark upper lip skin discoloration here.

The best way to treat melasma on the face is to use a tinted daily SPF containing iron oxides and a complete skin care routine for melasma.

What Causes The Upper Lip Discoloration in a Melasma Mustache?

A number of factors can cause melasma mustache, the most common of which is sun exposure. The sun’s harmful rays activate the production of melanin deep in the skin that ultimately creates long-lasting pigmentation on the surface of the skin. The best way to prevent this is to use an SPF every day (even on cloudy days), limit sun exposure and wear a wide-brimmed hat on bright days.

In addition, heat can cause melasma – whether as a result of sun exposure or from working in a hot kitchen, for example. Using hot wax on the upper lip for hair removal can also cause an upper lip shadow. If you have melasma on the upper lip and you wax your mustache, talk to your esthetician about using cooler waxes to remove facial hair.

Blue light from your cell phone or laptop can also worsen upper lip discoloration. Again, wearing a daily, tinted mineral SPF with iron oxides, or a makeup foundation or concealer with iron oxides can help prevent upper lip discoloration.

Many facial foundations now contain iron oxides, and one of our favorites is Dermablend by Vichy, which has a number of supporting clinical studies that show the iron oxides it contains helps to protect the skin from the damage blue light can cause. You can find the best foundation to cover hyperpigmentation here.

Finally, hormonal changes can cause upper lip discoloration and melasma on the face. Pregnancy, hormone replacement therapy and oral contraceptives all affect the body’s estrogen balance, which can stimulate excess melanin production.

How To Lighten Upper Lip Shadow

If upper lip discoloration and hyperpigmentation are of particular concern to you, you’ll be pleased to know that there are many upper lip lightening creams available, often referred to as melasma creams or skin lightening creams. You can find the best melasma creams here.

To lighten melasma on the upper lip look for skin lightening creams that contain the following ingredients:

Tyrosinase inhibitors

Protease-activated receptor-2 (PAR-2) blockers

Exfoliators such as alpha-hydroxy acids or retinoids.

Tyrosinase Inhibitors for Melasma

Tyrosinase inhibitors are effective for melasma and upper lip discoloration as they slow down the pigment-producing process in the skin. Tyrosinase is responsible for the first step in melanin production, which causes pigmentation on the skin. By blocking the mechanism of action of tyrosinase, tyrosinase inhibitors prevent the formation of new pigmentation (melanin).

There are a number of different ingredients commonly found in skin lightening creams that inhibit tyrosinase, including arbutin, kojic acid, licorice extract, mulberry extract, thiamidol, and hydroquinone.

Hydroquinone is often touted as the gold standard treatment for the removal of unwanted melasma on the face. However, it can have some unwanted side effects and is actually banned without a prescription in many countries.

Kojic acid is an effective a tyrosinase inhibitor commonly found in skin lightening creams and serums. SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense Serums harness the power of kojic acid, combined with niacinamide and tranexamic acid, to target melasma mustache and pigmentation on the cheeks for a more even skin tone.

Arbutin (often listed as alpha-arbutin in skin care ingredients) is a natural tyrosinase inhibitor derived from the bearberry bush, as well as an antioxidant. It can be found in ClarityRx Let There Be Light Lightening Serum, which is one of the best hydroquinone-free pigmentation serums to remove dark spots and melasma. In addition to arbutin, it contains hyaluronic acid to keep skin hydrated and reduce the redness caused by inflammation.

Licorice extract and mulberry extract are both well-known natural skin lightening agents, often combined in ingredients lists with alpha-arbutin or kojic acid.

PAR-2 Blockers For Melasma

Protease-activated receptor-2 (PAR-2) is a receptor within skin cells that allows the pigment melanin to cross from being a melanocyte cell that makes the pigment into a skin cell (i.e. a keratinocyte). In other words, PAR-2 pushes the pigment (melanin) from the lower layers of the skin to the surface of the skin, where it is visible. By blocking PAR-2, you can also block the appearance of a melasma mustache.

The best ingredients to block PAR-2 are niacinamide, soy milk, and soybean components called trypsin inhibitors and Bowman-Birk inhibitors.

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a popular skin care treatment for melasma on the face, with a number of clinical studies to support its efficacy. As well as lightening upper lip hyperpigmentation, it helps the skin to stay healthy and prevents further damage from sun exposure.

The best dermatologist treatment containing niacinamide to treat sun mustache and remove dark spots on the skin is Medature Hydro Bright Treatment. Skin brightening niacinamide is combined with hexylresorcinol to repair and prevent hyperpigmentation to leave skin revitalized.

Soy contains phytoestrogens, which help to stimulate collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin. In addition, isoflavones reduce the oxidative stress that can cause inflammation and discoloration, and so are effective at reducing melasma, as well as improving the appearance of sun damage.

Soy products also contain components called trypsin inhibitors and Bowman-Birk inhibitors, which can prevent inflammation and pigmentation.

Look out for ingredients such as glycine soja in your skin care products, which is derived from wild soybean. La Roche-Posay Pure Retinol Face Serum with Vitamin B3 combines glycine soja oil with retinol and niacinamide to even out skin tone and improve the signs of aging caused by sun exposure.

Exfoliation For Melasma

Using exfoliating ingredients, whether chemical exfoliation or mechanical exfoliation, can be effective for melasma as exfoliators help to break apart the pigmented cells on the surface of the skin. Chemical exfoliators will contain ingredients such as alpha-hydroxy acids (e.g. glycolic acid, lactic acid) and retinoids like retinol, whereas mechanical exfoliators are essentially your traditional facial scrubs.

The best face scrub for melasma and upper lip discoloration is Pidanti Smoothing Polish face and Body Scrub. This plastic-free scrub revitalizes dull skin and uneven skin tone, leaving a radiant appearance. It combines exfoliating beads with glycolic acid and alpha-arbutin (a tyrosinase inhibitor), as well as soothing chamomile and green tea extract.

Glycolic acid deeply penetrates the skin to improve skin tone and texture, as well as removing dead and pigmented skin cells from the surface of the skin. Lactic acid is a much gentler form of alpha hydroxy acid, ideal for dry skin types, which is also effective at treating upper lip hyperpigmentation.

Gluconolactone is also an effective skin care ingredient to treat melasma on the face. It is a form of poly-hydroxy acid that is more suitable for sensitive skin types, but no less effective than glycolic acid for a brighter complexion.

What Is The Best Skin Care Routine To Treat Melasma On The Face?

If you have a melasma mustache, it can take 8-12 weeks of the best skin care routine for melasma for the upper lip to go away. It is important to note also that dehydration and inflammation can worsen melasma, so keeping your skin hydrated (both from the inside and out) is essential, combined with an effective daily SPF to prevent further sun damage.

The best skin care products to use for melasma on the face depend on your skin type. Take the Skin Type Quiz to find out your skin type and we will recommend the best, personalized skin care routine to treat melasma on your face. Click here to find the best skin care routine for melasma.

Summary

The best way to get rid of melasma on the face is with a personalized skin care routine for your skin type.

You should use the melasma skin lightening creams for 3-4 months and alternate with vitamin c serums. Using sunscreen, retinoids and hydroxy acid cleansers will help treat melasma faster, though in most cases it can take 8-16 weeks for melasma to disappear.

There is no cure for melasma, so your best bet is to take the Skin Type Quiz and find the best skin care brands for melasma that are right for your skin type.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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