Borage Seed Oil in Skin Care: A Powerful Natural Ingredient

Borage Seed Oil in Skin Care

Borage seed oil is an extremely common and safe ingredient in skin care.

It has a luxurious feel and is found in many expensive face creams.

It has been used by civilizations for millennia for its versatility in medicine and cosmetics.

It is safe for use on the face, during pregnancy, and on baby skin. It should only be avoided by those with extremely dry skin. Take the Baumann Skin Type quiz to make sure you only buy the right products for your skin type.

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Table of contents

what is borage seed oil

What is borage seed oil?

Borage seed oil (Borago officinalis) comes from a wildflower also known as “starflower.”

It has been used for over 1,500 years for its various beneficial properties(2) and it is still used today in many skin care products.

Mentions of borage oil date as far back as Roman historian Pliny the Elder and the Greek poet Homer, who described a substance he called “nepenthe.”

Nepenthe is now believed to have been derived from borage leaves steeped in wine(3).

A medicinal tea made of borage leaves was also commonly consumed in the Middle Ages(2).

Borage seed oil contains high levels of beneficial fatty acids that give it many useful properties in skin care.

Is borage seed oil used in skin care?

Borage seed oil is a very common ingredient in skin care, found in product types like:

Cleansers

Lip balms

Masks

Moisturizers

Sunscreens

Toners

Here are some of my favorite borage seed oil products. To find out if Borage seed is is right for your skin, be sure to shop by your Baumann Skin Type.

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Borage seed oil in skin care

What kind of oil is borage seed oil?

Borage seed oil is primarily composed of unsaturated fats and it is derived from a wildflower.

Though it is a plant extract, it is not an essential oil because it is too thick. It is instead considered a carrier oil in many cosmetics.

Borage seed oil is cold pressed and typically unprocessed by chemicals. For those reasons it is usually considered an organic oil.

What are the active compounds in borage seed oil?

Linolenic acid

Borage seed oil is rich in gamma-linolenic acid, a fatty acid that helps the production of ceramides.

Linolenic acids aren’t naturally synthesized in your body, so they have to be consumed in your diet or with skin care.

Borage seed oil has been shown to have two to three times more gamma-linolenic acid than evening primrose oil, which itself is known to be a rich source of the essential acid (6,7).

Many common vegetables, nuts, and seeds part of most diets contain linolenic fatty acids.

Oleic Acid

Oleic acid is also an active fatty acid in borage seed at around 18.5% concentration (depending on factors like where the plant was grown, soil conditions, etc.)

Oleic acid’s interactions with the skin, creating tiny holes on the skin, helps many ingredients or compounds absorb into the skin.

Many antioxidant, free radical eliminating properties are also present in borage seed oil.

Linoleic acid

Borage seed oil also has a high concentration of linoleic acid, a soothing, anti-inflammatory fatty acid desirable in many types of products.

side effects of borage seed

Side effects

Borage seed oil has a decent amount of oleic acid, which, just like in olive oil, creates small perforations in the skin which can irritate dry skin type.

The only other possible side effect from use of borage seed oil is a mild allergy to it.

Be sure to check ingredient labels for all of your known allergens if you are concerned about having a skin reaction.

Is borage seed oil safe?

Borage seed is an extremely safe ingredient for use in skin care.

The EWG safety rating for borage seed oil is “1,” with zero associated safety concerns in their data.

Borage seed and oils derived from it were also shown to be safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) in 2010 (19).

The CIR reported that repeated long time exposure to borage seed oil showed no signs of irritation in topical use (20).

The only danger is it might not be right for your Baumann Skin Type or you might be using it in the wrong step in your custom skin care regimen.

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benefits of borage seed oil

What are the benefits of borage seed oil?

Five important benefits of borage seed oil:

anti-microbial

anti-redness

hydrating

occlusive

penetration enhancer (Increases absorption of other products)

Borage seed oil has a remarkable amount of versatility and many benefits in skin care products.

To begin with, it is an anti-microbial oil which means it has uses in eliminating acne causing bacteria on the skin.

It is occlusive, meaning it helps regulate the absorption of other ingredients into your skin based on how you layer your skin care products.

Borage seed is rich in hydrating fatty acids which moisturize and revitalize the skin.

Soothing linoleic fatty acid is also present in the oil, meaning it is great for treating inflammation and relieving redness.

It also contains oleic acid, a fatty acid which further assists with ingredient absorption and is recommended for many skin types.

Just as importantly, borage seed oil contains extremely high amounts of the beneficial fatty acid, gamma-linolenic acid (GLA).

Borage seed oil is so versatile that it is even used with success in treatments of arthritis (22,24,25).

Borage seed oil for skin lightening

With a high concentration of unsaturated fatty acids, borage seed oil is a weak tyrosinase inhibitor.

Tyrosinase inhibitors directly interrupt the skin’s production of melanin, the pigment that darkens skin.

Weak tyrosinase inhibitors are commonly used alongside PAR-2 blockers like niacinamide or powerful tyrosinase inhibitors like resorcinol.

If used to treat melasma or other types of hyperpigmentation, it should be combined with other skin lightening ingredients.

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Borage oil in moisturizers

Borage seed oil is occlusive, which means it creates a kind of “shield” on top of skin which can help modulate how your other skin care ingredients are absorbed.

Skin care ingredients will have different effects based on the order they are layered on your skin.

This is why when you use borage seed oil in your skin care regimen is important.

Occlusive ingredients work extremely well in combination with retinoids, which often need to have their absorption rates modulated based on your particular skin concerns.

Occlusives are used for treatments like skin slugging.

To find out when to use borage seed oil face creams in your skin care routine- take the dermatologist- developed skin care routine quiz.

Borage oil for Hair repair and hydration

As a non-comedogenic, hydrating oil, borage seed oil is safe for use in hair care and does not pose a risk of clogging pores on the hair line.

Borage seed has many desirable qualities that keep hair healthy and shiny.

As an emollient, borage seed oil can help hair reflect light, making it appear to shine.

Oils that both hydrate hair strands and repair follicles are very desirable in hair care products.

borage oil for specific conditions

Borage seed oil for specific conditions

Depending on your Baumann Skin Type, borage seed oil can be used to treat myriad skin conditions and concerns like wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and acne.

The many beneficial fatty acids and other active compounds present in borage seed oil can be found in almost every style of skin care product.

Acne

Borage seed oil is anti-microbial (26) and non-comedogenic, which makes it great in use for acne products.

Acne is caused by a buildup of specific acne-causing bacteria clogging facial pores; this means most ingredients that eliminate bacteria without further clogging pores can be useful in acne products.

There are many effective routines and products containing borage seed or similar oils for use with acne.

To find out if borage seed oil is right for your acne routine, be sure to shop by your Baumann Skin Type.

For dry skin

If you have dry skin, borage seed oil might not be right for your skin type as it has a high concentration of oleic acid, which can dehydrate or irritate extremely dry skin.

The best oils for dry skin types contain linoleic acid, which borage seed oil does have, but there are other oils with a higher amount of this fatty acid and are better for dry skin.

This is a great example of why finding the best serums or type of moisturizer for your skin type can be tricky.

If your skin is not “extremely” dry, there is a chance borage seed can still be right for your skin type when combined with other oils.

Because of the high concentration of oleic acid, dry skin conditions like eczema, or psoriasis should not be treated with borage seed oil.

borage oil for rosacea

Rosacea

Borage seed oil is a a good calming oil for rosacea, It has anti-redness properties and feels soothing.

Argan oil is another great oil to use to treat rosacea.

If you have rosacea, it is very important that every product in your skin care routine is safe for rosacea-prone skin.

Wrinkles

Anti-aging products for wrinkles often contain borage seed oil.

Borage seed oil contains antioxidants which directly aid in repairing sun damaged, aging skin types.

Borage seed oil can be found in anti-aging creams alongside other common anti-aging ingredients in the retinoid family.

When starting an anti-aging regimen, it is important to note that antioxidants do not treat wrinkles- they help prevent them.

You should combine borage seed oil with other antiaging ingredients.

DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek. “Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more. Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals. Sunscreen “We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.” Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup. Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand. Vitamin C Serum “A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging. Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation. Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants. Peptides Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.” Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively. This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek. At-Home Peel Pads Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate. “The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.” According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says. Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection. KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids. Emollient Night Cream “In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.” “Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products. Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid. RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme “The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.

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