Can Azelaic Acid Be Used Together with Retinoids?
Even if you’re not into skincare, you’ve probably heard of the ingredient retinol, also known as retinoids. It’s earned a solid reputation for its effectiveness and impressive results, especially for those who are acne-prone or concerned about the signs of aging.
Speaking of azelaic acid, I wouldn’t be surprised if you said you’ve never heard of this powerful substance. It’s truly an unsung hero that’s been getting a lot of attention lately. If you’re still a little confused, let’s do a quick recap of what these ingredients are and how they work on the skin.
What is a retinoid and how does it work on the skin?
Retinoids are a potent form of vitamin A that are known for their impressive anti-aging and anti-acne properties.
It works by increasing the rate of skin cell turnover, which can naturally last up to 30 days. This shouldn’t be confused with exfoliation, as retinol works deeper in the skin to boost collagen and elastin production.
It’s known for its high effectiveness, but it can often cause skin irritation, flaking, dryness, and itching, especially when you first introduce it to your skincare routine.
For best results, you should use retinol in your routine at night, as the ingredient loses its effectiveness and becomes completely useless when exposed to UV rays.
If you want to learn more about retinol/retinoids, read our dedicated blog post. We also explain whether retinol and retinoids are the same substance, which you can read here.
What is azelaic acid? How does it work on the skin?
Derived from grains such as wheat, rye, and barley, azelaic acid has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.
Azelaic acid can effectively clear out bacteria that build up in your pores, helping to fight pimples and common acne.
It also contains anti-inflammatory properties that help fight redness, rashes, and other skin conditions such as rosacea.
Azelaic acid gently removes dead skin cells from the surface of the skin, rejuvenating your complexion and giving you a healthy glow all over.
For more information on how azelaic acid can benefit your skin, check out our dedicated blog post. You can also find several other blog posts about this smart acid and the best ways to use it in your skincare routine.
Now let’s get into the details of whether you can use azelaic acid and retinoids together.
Can retinol and azelaic acid be used together?
Yes, you can certainly use retinol and azelaic acid together. Both ingredients work on the skin in similar ways and successfully address certain skin issues like acne and hyperpigmentation. Dark spots and melasma are two major issues that can be treated by combining these powerful approaches.
This is because azelaic acid inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin, the pigment in the skin that often makes hyperpigmented areas appear darker. Retinol supports the effects of azelaic acid by boosting cell turnover and making dark spots less noticeable.
Which comes first, azelaic acid or retinol?
This depends on the consistency of the product, as a basic skincare rule is to apply formulas in order from thinnest to thickest. If both are similar products with the same consistency, the order of application does not matter.
You just have to focus on whether your skin has developed a tolerance for both ingredients. Therefore, we recommend that you slowly introduce each ingredient into your routine at first. Ideally, you should alternate between using them at night, one at a time, to give your skin the boost it needs while avoiding any unwanted irritation or breakouts. Once your skin is used to using both azelaic acid and retinol products together, you can then use both products in your daily routine. For best results, wait about 30 minutes between applications to allow your skin’s pH to rebalance.
How to Use Azelaic Acid, Retinol, and Vitamin C?
Using all three active ingredients may take some time for the skin to adjust to the application. Once you have achieved this and your skin is not showing any signs of irritation, you can then use all three products in your daily routine. The most effective way to do this is to start with a vitamin C-rich serum in your morning routine. Not only will this help restore your skin’s radiance, but the antioxidant-rich vitamin C also provides additional protection. They fight any free radical exposure, such as UV rays, pollution, and other environmental aggressors.
You can then use azelaic acid and retinol in your evening routine, starting with the thinnest formula.
This is the most effective way to use these ingredients to keep your skin healthy and radiant, improving the overall finish and texture of your skin. Before using any of these ingredients, we recommend that you consult with your doctor or dermatologist to make sure your skin can tolerate all three ingredients in your routine.
What not to mix with azelaic acid?
It is believed that it is best not to mix azelaic acid with beta hydroxy acids (also known as BHAs, such as salicylic acid). This is because the skin is exfoliated too much and the two acids work on different layers, causing an imbalance in pH. If you want to learn more about what not to mix with azelaic acid, read our dedicated blog post for more information.
I hope I answered some of your questions today about using azelaic acid and retinol. Don’t forget: If you have any other questions, visit us on Instagram. You can reach one of our skin care experts in a private message!
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
