Can Azelaic Acid Be Used With BHA?
It’s a funny world when it comes to all thing’s skincare, there are some popular ingredients that reign supreme and have established themselves firmly into our daily skincare routine. One of the most popular or well-known being a member of the BHA family, salicylic acid. As effective as these powerhouse ingredients are, there is often some little to no focus on the lesser known, azelaic acid being one of them.
What is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid is a mild exfoliant that is derived from wheat, barley, and rye. When used in skincare formulas however, a lab-generated form of the ingredient is preferred to ensure it is fully stable and effective.
Compared to other alpha hydroxy acids, also known as AHAs, you’ll find that azelaic acid is gentler on the skin and exfoliants the skin without causing too much irritation. You’ll find you’re left with a smoother, even complexion with signs of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and post acne scarring is drastically improved.
Unlike other exfoliating acids, you’ll find that azelaic acid does not cause the same level of increased sensitivity to UV light. This doesn’t mean you can start skipping your daily application of an SPF of 30 and above. For extra sun protection it’s important you use sunscreen every day to keep your skin healthy and happy.
Now you have a little refresher on what this clever ingredient does, we can move on to finding out how to incorporate it into your daily routine. So, with this is mind, we are going to dive in and investigate in more detail about whether you can use azelaic acid with BHA?
If you are sat there still wondering what azelaic acid is and how it works for the skin, you can check out the dedicated blog post about it over on The Beauty Insiders. And if you are also a little unsure of how to use salicylic acid in your skincare routine, you can check out our Skin School that explains how it works in more detail.
Can I use azelaic acid after BHA?
Yes, you can, but I would recommend you don’t. This is only because as effective as azelaic acid is on the skin, you’ll find that it is a difficult ingredient to use due to the lack of complete understanding of the full potential of this powerhouse ingredient. It is also quite tricky to work with and you’ll often find formulas rarely contain more than 10% of the active ingredient as this tends to lead to azelaic acid becoming grainy which can cause a flare-up in skin irritation.
Bearing this in mind may help explain my hesitation of using azelaic acid with BHA. This is because BHAs, such as salicylic acid, are highly potent and are known for penetrating deeply into the pores whilst sloughing away build-up of dead skin cells. By layering both ingredients on top of each other can result in a flare-up in unwanted skin irritation and dryness. It’s best avoid using them together but there is nothing preventing you from alternating which days you use each of them. We will go into more detail about this in the next section of the blog post.
Can salicylic acid and azelaic acid together?
Yes and no, by this I mean you can use both in your daily skincare routine but should avoid layering them on top of each other as this can become too much for the skin. To gain optimal results, it’s best to alternate when you apply each formulation containing these impressive skin ingredients.
With each of these ingredients exfoliating the top layer of the skin, ideally you should apply them during your evening routine. This will not only allow them to work on the skin uninterrupted whilst you sleep but will avoid any overexposure to UV light and other free radicals, such as pollution, harsh climates, and other environmental aggressors. Follow these in the morning with a SPF of 30 and above to protect the skin barrier ensuring it is fully functioning and able to look and feel its best.
The unique trait of azelaic acid compared to other chemical exfoliants, is the fact it is a tyrosinase inhibitor. This basically means it prevents hyperpigmentation developing as the anti-inflammatory and anti-pigment properties of the ingredient stops melanin from becoming overproduced on the skin surface. You will also find that other concerns such as spots, blocked follicles, and areas of uneven pigment to the complexion and treated. As I have already mentioned, azelaic acid does not increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun but applying a sunscreen daily.
Can I use BHA niacinamide and azelaic acid together?
Yes, you can, but preferably not altogether. You’ll often find that niacinamide is blended into formulas containing both BHAs and azelaic acid. This is because of the humectant traits of niacinamide ensuring moisture is absorbed into the skin and locked into place, keeping the complexion hydrated, glowing, and plumped.
To truly reap the rewards of these three potent ingredients, you can team niacinamide with whichever ingredient you are using that evening to counteract any dryness or irritation caused. I would still suggest you alternate when you use azelaic acid and BHA to prevent overloading the skin with a variety of different pH levels which is often the cause of unwanted side effects, such as rashes, redness, itchy patches of skin, and dryness. If you wanted to know more about using azelaic acid and niacinamide together, check out our dedicated blog post.
So, there you have a little refresher of the unsung skin hero that is azelaic acid and how it can be used with BHA, such as salicylic acid. Just a word of caution that if you find yourself with a skin type that is sensitive, dry, and prone to flare-up in skin irritation you must always before a patch test for 24 hours before applying any new product to your skin. Not forgetting of course, you should also consult with a doctor or dermatologist before trying anything new on the skin. If you have any skincare questions, you can come and follow us on Instagram for daily skin tips, exclusive giveaways, and other new product launches.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.
