Can Azelaic Acid Be Used with BHAs?
When it comes to skin care, the world is a little strange. There are a few popular ingredients that are the undisputed leaders and have earned a permanent place in our daily skin care routines. The most popular or well-known of these is salicylic acid, which is a member of the BHA family. While these powerful ingredients are incredibly effective, little attention is paid to the lesser-known ones, including azelaic acid.
What is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid is a gentle exfoliant that is derived from wheat, barley, and rye. However, when used in skin care formulas, a lab-made form of the ingredient is preferred to ensure it is completely stable and effective.
Compared to other alpha hydroxy acids (also known as AHAs), azelaic acid is gentler on the skin and exfoliates the skin without causing too much irritation. You’ll notice that your skin tone becomes smoother and more even, and signs of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and acne scars are significantly reduced.
Unlike other exfoliating acids, azelaic acid does not cause the same increase in UV sensitivity. But that doesn’t mean you can avoid using an SPF of 30 or higher every day. For added sun protection, it’s important to use sunscreen every day to keep your skin healthy and happy.
Now that you have some idea of what this clever ingredient does, let’s move on to how you can incorporate it into your daily routine. With that in mind, let’s now take a closer look at whether you can use azelaic acid with your BHA.
If you’re still wondering what azelaic acid is and how it works on the skin, you can read a dedicated blog post about it on The Beauty Insiders. If you’re not sure how to use salicylic acid in your skincare routine, check out our Skin School for a more detailed explanation of how it works.
Can you use azelaic acid after your BHA?
Yes, you can, but I would advise against it. That’s simply because while azelaic acid works for the skin, you’ll find it to be a difficult ingredient to use due to a lack of complete understanding of the full potential of this powerful ingredient. Additionally, it’s difficult to work with, and you’ll often find formulas that rarely contain more than 10% of the active ingredient, as this can cause the azelaic acid to become grainy, which can cause skin irritation.
With that in mind, perhaps this explains my hesitation to use azelaic acid with my BHA. That’s because BHAs, such as salicylic acid, are so effective at getting deep into the pores and removing dead skin cells. Stacking the two ingredients together can cause unwanted skin irritation and dryness. It’s best to avoid using them at the same time, but you can also alternate between them. We’ll discuss this in more detail in the next section of the blog post.
Can salicylic acid and azelaic acid be used together?
Yes and no, I mean, you can use both of these products together in your daily skincare routine, but you should avoid stacking them together as it can be too much for the skin. For best results, it’s best to alternate between formulas containing these impressive skin ingredients.
Since each of these ingredients exfoliates the top layer of your skin, it’s best to use them in your nighttime routine. Not only can they work on your skin undisturbed while you sleep, but you can also avoid overexposure to UV rays and other free radicals, such as those caused by environmental effects such as pollution, harsh climates, etc. Apply an SPF of 30 or higher in the morning to protect your skin barrier, ensure it’s fully functioning, and keep you looking and feeling your best.
What’s unique about azelaic acid compared to other chemical peels is that it’s a tyrosinase inhibitor. This essentially means that it prevents the development of hyperpigmentation, as the anti-inflammatory and anti-pigmentation properties of the ingredient prevent the overproduction of melanin on the surface of the skin. You will also find that other issues such as spots, clogged hair follicles, and areas of uneven skin tone are treated as well. As I mentioned, azelaic acid does not increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun, but daily use of sunscreen can increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun.
Can BHA Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid be used together?
Yes, you can, but it is best not to use them at the same time. You will often find Niacinamide mixed into formulas that contain BHA and Azelaic Acid. This is due to Niacinamide’s moisturizing properties, ensuring that moisture is absorbed into the skin and locked in, leaving the complexion hydrated, radiant, and plump.
To really reap the benefits of these three powerful ingredients, you can combine Niacinamide with an ingredient you use that night to address dryness or irritation. I still recommend alternating between Azelaic Acid and BHA to avoid overloading the skin with a variety of different pH levels, which often leads to undesirable side effects such as rashes, redness, itchy skin, and dryness. If you want to learn more about using azelaic acid and niacinamide together, read our dedicated blog post.
Here you can review the unsung skin hero, azelaic acid, and how to use it with BHAs like salicylic acid. Bonus tip: If you have a sensitive, dry, and easily irritated skin type, a 24-hour patch test is a must before applying any new product to your skin. Of course, don’t forget that you should also consult your doctor or dermatologist before trying anything new on your skin. If you have any skincare questions, you can follow us on Instagram for daily skincare tips, exclusive giveaways, and other new product launches.
DQH Knowledge drop: In your 20s, your skin cell turnover decreases. (Cell turnover is a key component in keeping your skin youthful.) You know what else slows down? Your collagen production. Starting in your 20s, collagen decreases by about 1 percent per year. Should you want to prevent fine lines and wrinkles, start by eliminating behaviors that contribute to premature aging. “If it’s bad for you, it’s bad for your skin,” says dermatologist Michel Somenek.
“Cigarette smoking reduces blood flow to the skin and causes premature wrinkling and a dull skin texture. Making the repeated pursed motion to inhale can also cause smoker’s lines. Alcohol and recreational drugs are toxins for the skin that damage its cellular structure and DNA,” Somenek tells us. “The faster you eliminate vices while you are young, the better chance your skin and body have to recuperate.” Also, adopting an anti-aging routine in your 20s is key. After all, the best offense is a good defense. We spoke to Somenek and experts Joshua Ross and Audrey Kunin to find out more.
Keep reading for the best anti-aging products for your 20s, according to skincare professionals.
Sunscreen
“We all know that the sun is the number one cause of skin aging and starting the prevention in your 20s is very important,” Ross says. “The majority of your sun damage won’t start to appear until you’re in your 30s, so don’t wait until you see it surface or you’ll be behind the curve. Stay ahead of it with a good-quality zinc-based sunscreen worn daily.”
Farmacy Green Defense Daily Mineral Sunscreen
An invisible sunscreen with SPF 30, plus botanical extracts meant to protect skin with tons of antioxidants. Bonus: It’s clean and fine to use under makeup.
Bareminerals Complexion Rescue™ Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30
Although we recommend you use your SPF and moisturizer separately, we also understand moments when you don’t have time or energy for that extra step. For those times, this bareMinerals moisturizer is a great thing to have on hand.
Vitamin C Serum
“A great introduction to anti-aging is to start with a vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine,” Ross says. “It’s a powerful antioxidant that will neutralize free radicals and brighten the skin.” He adds that it’s a great way to counteract the effects of the sun’s harmful rays, which, as previously mentioned, are among the biggest causes of premature aging.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma™ Vitamin C Day Serum
The Drunk Elephant C-Firma is a lightweight serum that promises to give skin a glow by combining the brightening powers of vitamin C with ferulic acid, l-ascorbic acid, and vitamin E. The included sodium hyaluronate is meant to replace hydration loss, so you shouldn’t have to deal with any irritation.
Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum
This potent serum is jam-packed with vitamin C (15 percent, to be exact), which means it’s a potential superstar at both brightening skin and dousing it in antioxidants.
Peptides
Using peptides on your skin has many benefits, says Somenek. “The skin barrier is what defends the body against pollution, UV rays, bacteria, and toxins. It can be damaged by several everyday factors. Using topical peptides aids in building a stronger barrier,” he says. “Peptides comprise elastic fibers, which are a type of protein. These fibers help to make skin appear taut and firm. Peptides can also help repair damaged skin, relieve inflammation, and even out skin tone. Some peptides can kill acne-causing bacteria that is common in 20-somethings.”
Kunin agrees, saying, “Peptides are an excellent entry point for supporting collagen.” She recommends looking for face and eye treatments that contain these collagen-boosting powerhouses.
Charlotte Tilbury Magic Eye Rescue Cream
This Charlotte Tilbury super-emollient eye cream has a base of coconut oil and shea butter (read: it’s incredibly hydrating). Botanicals plus peptides are meant to help reduce dark circles and boost collagen, respectively.
This creamy moisturizer serves up potent collagen-boosting peptides and pycnogenol, and antioxidant-rich vitamin C. “Instead of sitting on top of the skin, peptides penetrate the outer layer so they go deep. The ‘signals’ they send tell the cells to produce elastin and collagen, which are needed for youthful-looking skin,” explains Somenek.
At-Home Peel Pads
Remember that skin cell turnover fiasco we talked about earlier? One way to help support it is by exfoliating. “Exfoliation is important to help keep skin fresh and luminous,” Kunin says. She recommends using at-home peel pads as an easy and effective way to exfoliate.
“The goal in your 20s is to fight the slowing pace of cell turnover. It is wise to use products that gently exfoliate, yet still remove oil and other impurities. Products that have Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are a good choice.”
According to Somenek, you should only exfoliate two to three times a week. “People of all ages are guilty of over-exfoliating and that can be too much of a good thing,” he says.
Dermadoctor Kakadu C Intensive Vitamin C Peel Pad
A few swipes of this Derma Doctor powerful peel pad promise to leave your skin glowing and smooth, thanks to the seven (yes, seven) types of chemical exfoliants, including AHA and BHA. It also contains vitamin C via Kakadu plum extract for added brightening and antioxidant protection.
KEY INGREDIENTS Kakadu plum extract is sourced from the Kakadu plum, a fruit grown in northern Australia. It contains vitamin C, which restores the skin’s natural barrier, increases collagen production, and soothes irritation.
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Universal Daily Peel Pads
These are the gold standard of peel pads, with a cult following and over 900 five-star reviews on Sephora. They’re easy to use and contain a blend of anti-aging exfoliating acids.
Emollient Night Cream
“In your 20s, you need to start upping the hydration in your skincare routine. You may have been cautious of over-moisturizing because of acne in your teens, but as you enter your 20s, your skin transitions and becomes drier,” Ross says. “I recommend an emollient night cream added into your evening skincare regimen.”
“Twenty-somethings need to make sure that they are not using creams that will clog their pores and cause excess oil production,” says Somenek. Opt for non-comedogenic products.
Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream
One great choice is the CeraVe Skin Renewing Night Cream, which is a non-comedogenic night cream that leaves skin soft and glowy. It combines the moisturizing powers of ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
RoC Retinol Correxion Max Hydration Creme
“The best night cream ingredients contain retinol, benzoyl peroxide, and/or salicylic acid or hyaluronic acid. The goal is to moisturize, yet remove excess oil,” says Somenek. This Roc Retinol Correxion cream fits the bill as it contains both hyaluronic acid and retinol so it promises to moisturize while also being non-comedogenic.